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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-28-2009, 12:23 PM   #30931
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Default balancing l3,l4

Hi my cars seem to run fine but when placed on spikes in the centre of the chassis it tips to one side is it worth fitting weights to balance it even though it does seem to drive ok or not around 60g needed
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Old 02-28-2009, 03:02 PM   #30932
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Hi my cars seem to run fine but when placed on spikes in the centre of the chassis it tips to one side is it worth fitting weights to balance it even though it does seem to drive ok or not around 60g needed

If it drives fine for you and your happy with it then leave it alone.

If you want it perfect, pull the motor and balance the chassis.

DK
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:21 AM   #30933
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Currently we are broadcasting the Finals day at www.holland09.com
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:06 AM   #30934
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I have a very weird tweak issue going on with my car. I have checked everything and still cannot get it figured out. My tires are are all trued and my front end is perfect. The axles are the exact same height off the ground and everything. Ive had the calipers on everything I can think of to make sure nothing is off like my hole positions, bulkheads, t-bar spacers, everything. Ive even gone so far as to making sure my rear ride height adjusters are perfect. I pulled my t-bar off and it seems to be nice and flat. It's just the weirdest thing. With the car right on the tweak station, my pod is no where near level with my chassis. And even with the car tweaked right. My rear chassis, side to side right height is completely different. I'm going to replace the bar, sockets, and balls since the rear socket had a little up and down play. But is there anything else I am missing? All carbon pieces are true as well. It's driving me crazy. Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:13 AM   #30935
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Originally Posted by Theslowguy View Post
I have a very weird tweak issue going on with my car. I have checked everything and still cannot get it figured out. My tires are are all trued and my front end is perfect. The axles are the exact same height off the ground and everything. Ive had the calipers on everything I can think of to make sure nothing is off like my hole positions, bulkheads, t-bar spacers, everything. Ive even gone so far as to making sure my rear ride height adjusters are perfect. I pulled my t-bar off and it seems to be nice and flat. It's just the weirdest thing. With the car right on the tweak station, my pod is no where near level with my chassis. And even with the car tweaked right. My rear chassis, side to side right height is completely different. I'm going to replace the bar, sockets, and balls since the rear socket had a little up and down play. But is there anything else I am missing? All carbon pieces are true as well. It's driving me crazy. Thanks.
1st: are you balancing with the rear of the car on the floating part of the tweak board, that will make it off cause your countering the motor weight

2nd: If you balancing it with the front on the floating part, how are the electronics balanced, a large brushless ESC and wire hanging on one side and a micro Rx on the other don't even out very well, depending on overall weight, could add some to the Rx side as well as shift the Rx outboard if possible.

3rd: check front spring, I know you measured the axles but that would have ment static with the chassis flat, if one of the springs is collapsed it would droop to one side, same if the springs were mismatched.

4th: Try a new T-bar, they are famous for hiding damage that could cause a tweak till just the right hit gently snaps it in two.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:48 AM   #30936
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Xceed
1:12 Foam tire arrived !
Lightweight wheel lighter than Jaco 15%

What's New @ RC MARKET
Tested use Front Medium & Rear Medium !
2 medium isn't same shore
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:30 PM   #30937
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Originally Posted by miller tyme View Post
1st: are you balancing with the rear of the car on the floating part of the tweak board, that will make it off cause your countering the motor weight

2nd: If you balancing it with the front on the floating part, how are the electronics balanced, a large brushless ESC and wire hanging on one side and a micro Rx on the other don't even out very well, depending on overall weight, could add some to the Rx side as well as shift the Rx outboard if possible.

3rd: check front spring, I know you measured the axles but that would have ment static with the chassis flat, if one of the springs is collapsed it would droop to one side, same if the springs were mismatched.

4th: Try a new T-bar, they are famous for hiding damage that could cause a tweak till just the right hit gently snaps it in two.

Using front of car.

Running brushes. And its the RX side that seem super heavy. But the car is balanced sweet.

Springs look good. Not collapsed. Lengths match.

Yea I'm going to switch out the bar and everything. It's weird. Because I backed the tweak screws all the way out and still has this major issue..
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:59 PM   #30938
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As I have Zero knowledge of T-Bar style cars as I have a Link style I do know that if there is a significant weight difference side to side there can be traction issues on acceleration.

My Bloody knife was great until I swapped out my small GTX (which fried) for a Tekin G11 which was much larger and weighed more. Then on the ESC side the car was off balance. Now when I ran it the way it was I had to have the front suspension and side springs set with more preload to get the car to balance on the tweak board and this caused the car to drive inconsistently.

Now when I balanced the car every aspect had to change to get it back to neutral. Now when tweaking the car it is much more reliable and does not change too much.


Just my experiences
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:33 PM   #30939
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Anyone running 10.5 12th on carpet? I ran on Sunday with a SP 10.5 and wasn't sure about the gearing. I threw something on there for Q1 and the motor came off at 105* after 8 minutes. So I geared up 2 teeth for Q2 and it was faster, but I dumped (Ener-G 4600's that still take 4600+/-). The motor still came off at 120. So I geared down for the main so it wouldn't dump, and the motor was still cold. I was running a 76/34 with 43 mm tires . . . do I need to gear up and the dumping was a fluke? It only dumped on the last 2 laps.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:11 PM   #30940
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I've been running some 10.5 recently. The car seemed to run best when I ran a 37 or 38 pinion 76 spur on 1.72" rears. Motor would come off at around 135-140 after 8 minutes. NEver came close to dumping, but I DID used to run a LOT of mod back in the good old 1700mah nicad days, so I do have a naturally light trigger finger. If you drive a 10.5 hard for the whole eight like you would a stock, you'll probably be flirting with the dump.

I'd suggest you go back up a tooth or two, and drive with a light trigger. In a typical eight minute run I might hit full throttle on the trigger for maybe five or ten seconds total out of the whole eight minutes. Most of the time I'm rolling in slower on the trigger exiting corners, and only hitting full throttle if I'm trying to pass someone on the straight. The rest of the time I might hit half to three quarter throttle even on the straight.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:13 PM   #30941
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Anyone running 10.5 12th on carpet? I ran on Sunday with a SP 10.5 and wasn't sure about the gearing. I threw something on there for Q1 and the motor came off at 105* after 8 minutes. So I geared up 2 teeth for Q2 and it was faster, but I dumped (Ener-G 4600's that still take 4600+/-). The motor still came off at 120. So I geared down for the main so it wouldn't dump, and the motor was still cold. I was running a 76/34 with 43 mm tires . . . do I need to gear up and the dumping was a fluke? It only dumped on the last 2 laps.
im running in a 10.5 class at my track. were running 78/37 with tires around 1.76" tires. no broblem dumping with 4600s hope this helps. good luck
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:57 PM   #30942
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Originally Posted by Trips View Post
I've been running some 10.5 recently. The car seemed to run best when I ran a 37 or 38 pinion 76 spur on 1.72" rears. Motor would come off at around 135-140 after 8 minutes. NEver came close to dumping, but I DID used to run a LOT of mod back in the good old 1700mah nicad days, so I do have a naturally light trigger finger. If you drive a 10.5 hard for the whole eight like you would a stock, you'll probably be flirting with the dump.

I'd suggest you go back up a tooth or two, and drive with a light trigger. In a typical eight minute run I might hit full throttle on the trigger for maybe five or ten seconds total out of the whole eight minutes. Most of the time I'm rolling in slower on the trigger exiting corners, and only hitting full throttle if I'm trying to pass someone on the straight. The rest of the time I might hit half to three quarter throttle even on the straight.
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Originally Posted by ONRAILZ View Post
im running in a 10.5 class at my track. were running 78/37 with tires around 1.76" tires. no broblem dumping with 4600s hope this helps. good luck

Helps a lot. That was my first week of 10.5 in 12th, so I was pretty clueless. Sounds like 66-68 mm is a good place to start. If I dump again, I'll know I need to work on throttle more . I'll try gearing up and see if it was just a random dump. Thanks for the quick replies.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:14 PM   #30943
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well maybe youve got battery problems if your dumping. cause i drive mine just like a stock car.... hard
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:04 AM   #30944
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I run 10.5 exclusively and my car is always in the range of 55 - 60 mmpr depending on track layout. It seems you need to go up a couple of teeth and switch any braking effect OFF in the ESC.

Then learn to drive by timing when you let go of the "on" button - 10.5 only has 2 settings, flat out or coasting
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:04 AM   #30945
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Hey,

I have really enjoyed this thread and it has really helped me out a lot in getting started in 1/12 Racing.

Not I have been doing a lot or reading on setup and I have the Setup sheet that evirobs posted in this thread

And the only thing I do not how to change is mid to exit steering.

Currently my car turns into the corners very well but as the car get over that first turn in it starts to push and I end up giving it more steering input and slowing down more than I should to keep my line.

Is there a trick to setting the steering so you get both good turn in and mid to exit cornering ability?

Thanks and my setup is below

CRC Bloody knife (3.2R)
front CRC Pro-strut (from GenX) with .5 mm (stock springs)
Front tire - Magenta (purple pushes way too much)
Side Springs - Red
Damper tubes - crc heavy silicone oil
.75 to 1.25 mm droop on rear pod with Associated Silver Spring
Rear shock oil 30 wt
Rear shock position (more level with the ground than stock)
Itís in the center hole of the aerial mount and the shock is inverted so the adjuster is towards the rear

Thanks again for any input
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