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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-23-2009, 09:07 PM   #30871
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I relate the droop we set to how we limit excess upward chassis travel when tuning a touring car. When under power the droop prevents unwanted decompression of the shock, extending the shock. I agree with Bob. The front chassis weight to power ratio and body downforce keeps the car set on all four, unless you are Dumas and go down the straight on only the rear wheels.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:10 PM   #30872
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
o.k I probably missed this in an earlier post but .......I thought the purpose of DROOP as it relates to us was that it adjusted the center of gravity in the car,and and by moving the centerr forward you increased steering as well as stability. Is this what you are saying?
i have not heard that. i would think that increasing droop, increasing steering move the cg back. but that is if as weight is transfered forward the shock is extended. if the shock compresses, then I can see that cg move forward. but I can not see how lengthening the shock would move the cg more forward.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:16 PM   #30873
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
I relate the droop we set to how we limit excess upward chassis travel when tuning a touring car. When under power the droop prevents unwanted decompression of the shock, extending the shock. I agree with Bob. The front chassis weight to power ratio and body downforce keeps the car set on all four, unless you are Dumas and go down the straight on only the rear wheels.
but then how does droop increase/decrease off power steering? just as in TC, increasing droop allow the back end to jack up higher and therefore allowing more weight to shift forward. in 1/12 I see it more at the pivot of a link car. so as you increase the length of the shock it increase how much up travel the center pivot is allowed to raise and therefore more weight forward and more steering.

i don't see how compression of the shock off power would be controlled by droop.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:20 PM   #30874
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Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
but then how does droop increase/decrease off power steering? just as in TC, increasing droop allow the back end to jack up higher and therefore allowing more weight to shift forward. in 1/12 I see it more at the pivot of a link car. so as you increase the length of the shock it increase how much up travel the center pivot is allowed to raise and therefore more weight forward and more steering.

i don't see how compression of the shock off power would be controlled by droop.
Where did I miss that last part... about droop having anything to do with compression? I understand droop to affect/limit the positive pitch of the rear pod when under power.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:22 PM   #30875
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
Where did I miss that last part... about droop having anything to do with compression?
per Rich Chang's tuning guide. "REAR POD DROOP: MORE – makes car turn in harder."

well you are saying off power the shock compresses. and in all the "tuning" guides, it tells you, increase droop increases off power steering. so basically you are saying

off power = compression of shock = increase droop
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:26 PM   #30876
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Help me out here, where did I mention anything about compression?
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:30 PM   #30877
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
When under power the droop prevents unwanted decompression of the shock, extending the shock
I can only assume that based on this statement, then off power the shock compresses. unless you are saying the shock extends on power and off power
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Last edited by theisgroup; 02-23-2009 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:37 PM   #30878
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Ok, good. I thought I was sure about not having wandered into the compression part. And yes, more droop does help with steering in a turn with most/all the load is off the shock during a turn. So I can see how droop plays a part. You can feel that transition in a 1:1. Love my MINI!
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:03 AM   #30879
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Sorry to jump off the droop topic but whats the consensus on lipos? I'm thinking about ordering smc single cell lipo but what do I need to run the radio gear? Voltage booster or a rec. pack?

Roar going to get on the lipo bang wagon for next season?
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:16 AM   #30880
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Sorry to jump off the droop topic but whats the consensus on lipos? I'm thinking about ordering smc single cell lipo but what do I need to run the radio gear? Voltage booster or a rec. pack?

Roar going to get on the lipo bang wagon for next season?
I doubt it. Folks are still in the "dabble" stage. Until you have a few heats of that kind of thing going on at a LOT of clubs they're not going to bother with it.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:25 AM   #30881
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I doubt it. Folks are still in the "dabble" stage. Until you have a few heats of that kind of thing going on at a LOT of clubs they're not going to bother with it.

Well I got one pack with a dead cell, one pack that dead shorted so I need batteries and I don't wanna by batteries to run for another month. The batteries I would buy now would be junk come next season so I would be ahead of the curve to just make the leap to a single cell lipo and start messing with it now. I talked to my local track owner and he says running a single cell and a 13.5 is going to be fine for stock racing. So I'm just wanting to know rec. pack or voltage booster? Anyone making a weight tray for the single cell yet?
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:03 AM   #30882
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Well I got one pack with a dead cell, one pack that dead shorted so I need batteries and I don't wanna by batteries to run for another month. The batteries I would buy now would be junk come next season so I would be ahead of the curve to just make the leap to a single cell lipo and start messing with it now. I talked to my local track owner and he says running a single cell and a 13.5 is going to be fine for stock racing. So I'm just wanting to know rec. pack or voltage booster? Anyone making a weight tray for the single cell yet?
Yea, you're in a tough spot. I might add, don't you feel that a lipo pack for a "theoretical class" won't be obsoleted by then as well? Right now only SMC has a foot in the door. Announce it as a class, you'll see 5-10 new versions.... and motors and new electronics to match the low voltage demands. A booster is a bandaid. Somebody will fix that with newer better electronics in the speedo.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:49 AM   #30883
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I have raced my 12th on carpet with a 1 cell LiPo and a 13.5 for 8+ minutes using two different ESC's and neither "needed" a booster or receiver pack. Obviously the word "needed" is a personal descriptor. Some feel the servos go soft and/or the powerband goes flat after several minutes without a receiver pack or booster. The two esc's I ran were the original 4 cell GTB, and a Spedpassion LPF 1.1.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:21 AM   #30884
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I pretty much only adjust droop at the rear of a 12th car to change the on power steering or to settle the car down on a high bite track.

There are a few things that are actually happening when you accelerate to the travel limit of the shock. My personal opinion on why the increased droop increased on power steering is that it raises the rear ride height and rollcenter. I think that the shock acting like a 3rd link (on a real car) is less of a contributor to the steering.

If you draw every thing out, droop shouldn't increase turn in but it does. Again, this is probably because of the higher ride height and rollcenter. The rear end will get held up for a little bit off power because of the damping in the shock. Eventually, it goes back to normal ride height and you don't have any extra steering in the middle.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:54 AM   #30885
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Sorry to jump off the droop topic but whats the consensus on lipos? I'm thinking about ordering smc single cell lipo but what do I need to run the radio gear? Voltage booster or a rec. pack?

Roar going to get on the lipo bang wagon for next season?
if you look on the roar website, the 1 cell pack is an approaved battery. also it looks like they lock down the size. they will have a size limit for saddle pack 3.7v pack as well from the look of it. there is no mention of 1 cell in 1/12 yet, but I am sure soon enough
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