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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-21-2009, 10:05 PM   #30826
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
If you don't like brushless, don't run them. I just broke the track record with the only 19T in a field of brushless 1/12th scales. A three year old epic 19t in a four year old 12L4 with new $30.00 batteries, an awesome set-up and some pretty decent driving can still get the job done.
I think it is cool that you have a "Track Record" to shoot for when you race. Not many road race clubs have that. Do you keep the same layout year round?
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:06 PM   #30827
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I think it hasn't been changed in over a year.
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:06 PM   #30828
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
10.5 NiMH.

The guys that have the brushless stuff figured out kill me on the back straight but they can't touch me through the infield. The car was absolutely amazing, dialed in like never before.
Ok, that makes more sense. Nice job by the way!
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:01 AM   #30829
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Otis View Post
I think it is cool that you have a "Track Record" to shoot for when you race. Not many road race clubs have that. Do you keep the same layout year round?
There's no "track record", that's just the fastest since the track layout change which was nine weeks ago. One week before we started our "points series", it was changed and it will probably be changed again in the next few weeks.

Sean's car was fast but, our track is no "hot spot" for 1/12. We have a couple guys that are good and a few that are just starting 1/12 for the first time but, nobody who is really good or great. Because of that, we aren't really finding the true potential for 1/12 but, we'll get there and we have fun.

I believe Sean's point though is true, you can compete even with older equipment in 1/12 with the right setup and driving.

Later
Tim
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:35 AM   #30830
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Yes, but SOME of us (myself, slowerone and Bob among them) foresaw these very things happening, but when we expressed this were shouted down. I'm by no means saying "brushless bad", etc, but the fact is that short-sighted people bum-rushed us into accepting brushless into spec racing on false pretense in spite of very vigorous argument to the contrary. Argument, I might add, which has proven 100% prescient.
Bum rushed? Brushless motors were legal in mod for a full year before anyone really tried anything with them. When a handful of top drivers started playing with them, they weren't sure of any performance advantage, but they loved the idea that they didn't have to slave over the motor between rounds. They could spend more time on car setup. And when they were finished with that, they could talk to other people. They started having fun racing again!!!

Other racers heard about that and demanded that ROAR come up with brushless spec classes. ROAR quite correctly came up with brushless equivalents that were slightly slower than their brushed counterparts, slowing the transition from brushed to brushless. Racers have a choice between the power advantage of a brushed motor, or the ease of maintenance of a brushless motor. No one envisioned the mass exodus from brushed to brushless.

I have always said that this is a hobby before it's a sport. The purpose of a hobby is to have fun in the end. No one was having fun rebuilding motors after each round. You could make the argument that if you're willing to do the work you could make a brushed motor/NiMH battery combo work better than a brushless setup. No one wants to do that kind of work. Now wether that's a good thing or bad thing is the topic of another argument!
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:37 AM   #30831
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Oh, and one more thing, where were you guys when rebuildable stock motors were forced down our throats?
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:23 AM   #30832
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Not going to happen. We're where we are, we just have to move forward. Racers have NEVER been known for exhibiting restraint (regardless our protestations to the contrary) and I'm about as bad as any of 'em.
I totally aggree with you here, reguardless of how much talk there is about slowing things down, racers want to go faster and vote that way with their pocketbooks.
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:50 AM   #30833
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Anybody got a link where I can buy 1/12 scale foam doughnuts?
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:58 AM   #30834
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Oh, and one more thing, where were you guys when rebuildable stock motors were forced down our throats?
Racing 1/8 onroad exclusively in that era.
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:11 PM   #30835
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Anybody got a link where I can buy 1/12 scale foam doughnuts?

CRC sells them but I'm not sure if these are for the older sm rims or the new highrollers. http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...category_id=64
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:14 PM   #30836
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Two things were suggested and ignored.

First, that a new class be created for BL that runs alongside BR. That way, people can choose which class to race in and, over time, one would prove more popular than the other. But no, Clubs and Associations simply made BL 'legal', and then tried to say both motors could run in the same class. Since the Bl motors invariably proved faster, guess what happened.

Second, it was suggested that once the BL motors caught on in volume, the focus would switch from hardware to software. Nothing was done to regulate this, so now we have new speedos coming out with unexplained tricks in them, and some needing a laptop at the track to tune them. This has increased the cost and complication.

What we said was that BL was not the answer to the motor maintenance, because it would bring with it another maintenance aspect (software) and a cost implication. We were right. And I was there supporting re-buildable Stock motors because I was fed up with people cheating by use of expensive, specialist equipment to true comms and set magnet timing.

And as for the idea that the mass exodus from BR is a power/maintenance thing - it's an efficiency thing. For most Club drivers, having a BL is essential in order to get their cells to last for eight minutes without the speed dropping off. They didn't want BL, but they couldn't make their BR last when put in the same race.

1-cell LiPo is now legal for 12th here in the UK, and will be pushed for EFRA. So, let's put my cards on the table again - it will not be cheaper than NiMh once the Teams get hold of it, the speedo software is adjustable to be used with it, and the cars are re-designed to cope with it. There will be no stopping it, but it isn't going answer anyone's prayers for a low-cost, simple racing.

TC has the same problem this side of the pond - BL and LiPo fully legal, numbers dropping. The appeal of 12th is its simplicity and low cost (BL and LiPo or not) so guess which class I'll be betting on to get through the next ten years of this recession?
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:14 PM   #30837
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Bum rushed? Brushless motors were legal in mod for a full year before anyone really tried anything with them.
Mod is a different story. It is quite easy in mod to drop in more motor then a track can handle so there is much less tuning and/or tweaking needed to be done. It isn't until you get to classes designed to have "motor equality" that tuning every ounce of speed out of a motor and/or ESC makes enough of a difference that tuners are going to try and figure them out.
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:23 PM   #30838
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Second, it was suggested that once the BL motors caught on in volume, the focus would switch from hardware to software. Nothing was done to regulate this, so now we have new speedos coming out with unexplained tricks in them, and some needing a laptop at the track to tune them. This has increased the cost and complication.
This is what I had been saying at the beginning of the debate a year or so ago. We haven't seen the hidden "Cheater" profiles yet like paintball but if/when software starts getting regulated we will. But until such time we will continue to see not only the motor of the week issue (like we did with brushed) but the motor and ESC of the week, greatly increasing the cost of competition.
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:43 PM   #30839
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Mod is a different story. It is quite easy in mod to drop in more motor then a track can handle so there is much less tuning and/or tweaking needed to be done. It isn't until you get to classes designed to have "motor equality" that tuning every ounce of speed out of a motor and/or ESC makes enough of a difference that tuners are going to try and figure them out.
Then screw all this motor equality crap and let's all race modified!
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:49 PM   #30840
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Then screw all this motor equality crap and let's all race modified!
Haha, that's exactly what I said after the first time I raced offroad stock truck. I've hated stock with a passion anytime I've ran it in any class. The tuners with a box of motors and BATTS always seemed to love it for some reason.
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