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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-20-2009, 08:49 PM   #30811
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I would love to be able to do that! I hate always having the servo horn just a few degrees off and having to use trim to correct it. I'd prefer a servo saver manufactured properly to the servo's center but in lieu of that I like the adjustment idea.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:18 PM   #30812
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Steve, like Burt said, you always wind up with the saver what seems off of perfect. You should always use sub trim to center a servo instead of trim. the reason is if you make a d/r change and you have a lot of trim in play, you epa's will not match what your d/r is doing. I guess I like to set the sub near zero, trim at 0, d/r at 100% then dial the pot just a little to get close, then finish the alignment with sub trim. I only use trim on the track, nothing more then a click or two from center. I set the epa's to just buzz the servo and back off a couple. Then I will take the d/r down to 75%. When hot lapping prior to the heat, I will go up or down depending the steering needed for that heat. Some like to do epa only and ignore the d/r claiming they can not keep the ratio correct if they use d/r. Just a preference thing.

But the adjust pot in the JR servo is a little known "goodie".

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Old 02-20-2009, 09:23 PM   #30813
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Steve, like Burt said, you always wind up with the saver what seems off of perfect. You should always use sub trim to center a servo instead of trim. the reason is if you make a d/r change and you have a lot of trim in play, you epa's will not match what your d/r is doing. I guess I like to set the sub near zero, trim at 0, d/r at 100% then dial the pot just a little to get close, then finish the alignment with sub trim. I only use trim on the track, nothing more then a click or two from center. I set the epa's to just buzz the servo and back off a couple. Then I will take the d/r down to 75%. When hot lapping prior to the heat, I will go up or down depending the steering needed for that heat. Some like to do epa only and ignore the d/r claiming they can not keep the ratio correct if they use d/r. Just a preference thing.

But the adjust pot in the JR servo is a little known "goodie".

Brian


Just the 3650, or others too; like the 9000s?

I set my radio/epa/DR exactly the same. In fact I love the option in the Helios that allows you to assign different functions to the buttons. I have Sub-trim assigned to the toggle above the wheel where most people have trim assigned. Sames time instead of having to navigate the menu. Is 75% of your Full travel usually where you hover around on carpet in 12th?
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:30 PM   #30814
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I know using trim to center up the horn leaves you unequal side-to-side, so I thought that initial centering of the servo with sub-trim was to keep that inequality from happening. I know when I build a car I center it with the sub-trim as close as I can get it, align to zero toe with my Niftech blocks and drop it on the track. It NEVER requires more than one click of the external trim to track straight and true and I find my circles are equal as can be both directions. And sometimes (usually) I have to add a lot more sub-trim than I'd really like to, but that just seems to be how it is. I wonder if the 949 or 9650 have that centering ability Brian describes--that would be TOO cool.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:51 PM   #30815
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I've had guys look for the pot adjust on a Futaba and ... nope. Don't know about the KO.

Andrew, 75% throw is just that, 75% of 100% throw.... 100% being where the servo buzzes due to mechanical limits. I find that if you use massive throw, it just upsets the car too much. I run on a lot Jack tracks. I do not like to slip the front tires on Jack. They just over heat and gum up which just screws the nose in about 6 minutes. I used to run 100% all the time (old habit from the Magnum Jr days) and just turn the wheel very little. That worked well on Paragon, but the "no smell'em" sauces today required I changed my evil ways.

I should assign my sub-trim to a surface button, makes sense. I too have the Helios. I've rolled the odometer about 6 times. What is that, about 600+ hours of use! I was looking at some of the new radios with all their little fancy light weight this and that.... but the Helios is an awesome radio.
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Old 02-21-2009, 02:04 AM   #30816
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Brian, this is a fairy story, surely? BL promised no maintenance, more equality of motor, and ease of use. I was shouted down for saying it would be more expensive, harder to tune, and speed would depend on speedo software and not a tuner's ability. You living in some parallel universe the to the BL zealots?
Don't EVEN get Scottrik started on that story... ...lol...
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:12 AM   #30817
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I got the shakes and foamed at the mouth a bit...but resisted.

Yeah, the short story is that the brushless zealots fed you a line of crap--power is no more "equal" than it ever was with brushed and now racing costs more than ever. To say nothing of making changeovers to brushless AND LiPo in a down economy (one of the few things that aren't the brushless/LiPo zealots fault...they've done their best to help us spend our way out of the recession).
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:44 AM   #30818
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Yet with all your naysaying 98% of racers have switched over to brushless and LiPo, and we are seeing an increase in turnout. And most people who have stopped racing 1/12 say it's because they can't run Lipo (which explains the big push for the single cell LiPo).

Your arguments sound valid, but it's not playing out that way.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:03 AM   #30819
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The only argument I made was that power is no more equal and we're paying more for it, both of which DIRECTLY contradict what was being touted by the supporters of bl and can 100% be proven by what we're seeing at the races today.

I made no reference/inference to whether attendance was increasing, decreasing or remaining stable. To discuss this, though, would require a LOT more information than just assuming any differences in attendance were due only to implementation of brushless and/or LiPo technologies. My own (admittedly somewhat limited, though I do travel over a fairly broad range of the country to race each year) observation is that there are more people racing 1/12 than possibly ever before. There are certainly more chassis choices, etc which would seem to indicate that the guys betting their own time and money perceive it to be a fairly healthy market, or at least as healthy as it's ever been. And this, surprisingly, in a class that still embraces (to your point) round cells. I see that changing, though, and am not entirely sure it's a good thing. I AM investing in testing that stuff, though, and going in some directions entirely of my own making in doing so...maybe blazing a couple trails.

YOU may be seeing an increase in turnout, but doing so you seem to be bucking a national trend (congrats for that!!) My understanding is that TC numbers, nationwide, are down pretty much everywhere yet they have BOTH brushless and LiPo technologies fully implemented.

Our own club, a "grass-roots" club in every respect of the word, has several new members this last two seasons who are racing our "Club-spec" Vintage Trans-Am and our 1/12 class, both of which require "round cells" and we only adopted brushless in 1/12 this season (far fewer than half our 1/12 racers have gone brushless even today almost an entire season in now). We have exactly ONE new member who is racing TC--in our Stock/Rubber tire class, no less, with a 27T motor and NiMH batteries even though both technologies are allowed in the class.
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:05 AM   #30820
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The only argument I made was that power is no more equal and we're paying more for it, both of which DIRECTLY contradict what was being touted by the supporters of bl and can 100% be proven by what we're seeing at the races today.
This is true today but when brushlss made its entry onto the scene power was very equal. That was because we had only one company; novak; making one esc, and one type of motor. But today we have lots of choices in both motors and esc's; and all the while there has been no real santioning, testing, or rules put in place to keep things form spiraling out of control. Than add to all that the ability of some to tear down the brushless motor and make "changes" to the internals; with no easy way to check/tech; has led to the differences we now see at the track. However this is really no different than back in the brushed day when peeps took windings off added bearings or put 19t arms in stock cans.

I was and still am a supporter of brushless and lipo but also realize that the racing community needs to find a way to keep things in check. ITs not the technoligy thats at fault but we need to slow down the rate its changeing/growing at. Easier said than done, I know.
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:51 PM   #30821
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This is true today but when brushlss made its entry onto the scene power was very equal. That was because we had only one company; novak; making one esc, and one type of motor. But today we have lots of choices in both motors and esc's; and all the while there has been no real santioning, testing, or rules put in place to keep things form spiraling out of control. Than add to all that the ability of some to tear down the brushless motor and make "changes" to the internals; with no easy way to check/tech; has led to the differences we now see at the track. However this is really no different than back in the brushed day when peeps took windings off added bearings or put 19t arms in stock cans.
Yes, but SOME of us (myself, slowerone and Bob among them) foresaw these very things happening, but when we expressed this were shouted down. I'm by no means saying "brushless bad", etc, but the fact is that short-sighted people bum-rushed us into accepting brushless into spec racing on false pretense in spite of very vigorous argument to the contrary. Argument, I might add, which has proven 100% prescient.

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I was and still am a supporter of brushless and lipo but also realize that the racing community needs to find a way to keep things in check. ITs not the technoligy thats at fault but we need to slow down the rate its changeing/growing at. Easier said than done, I know.
Not going to happen. We're where we are, we just have to move forward. Racers have NEVER been known for exhibiting restraint (regardless our protestations to the contrary) and I'm about as bad as any of 'em.
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:53 PM   #30822
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If you don't like brushless, don't run them. I just broke the track record with the only 19T in a field of brushless 1/12th scales. A three year old epic 19t in a four year old 12L4 with new $30.00 batteries, an awesome set-up and some pretty decent driving can still get the job done.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:41 PM   #30823
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If you don't like brushless, don't run them. I just broke the track record with the only 19T in a field of brushless 1/12th scales. A three year old epic 19t in a four year old 12L4 with new $30.00 batteries, an awesome set-up and some pretty decent driving can still get the job done.
What were you running the 19t against? It should be considerably faster than a 17.5/Nimh or 13.5/lipo.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:45 PM   #30824
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What were you running the 19t against? It should be considerably faster than a 17.5/Nimh or 13.5/lipo.
10.5 NiMH.

The guys that have the brushless stuff figured out kill me on the back straight but they can't touch me through the infield. The car was absolutely amazing, dialed in like never before.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:58 PM   #30825
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Unfortunately 10.5/19T died as a "recognized" spec the first of this year, now they're "light" mod motors...albeit "driveable" mod motors. SuperStock is now 13.5 BL only. Our club tried to maintain the 10.5/19T fire for our entire season this year but that ended up withering and dying so even we're doing "ROAR-spec" for our 2-day next weekend.
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