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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2009, 10:13 PM   #30796
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If anyone is in need of 1/8 ceramic balls, I made a typo in my order and got 10k, instead of 1k, so they are at a buy 1 get a free deal, free shipping (in USA) and also on sale, just click on the ceramic balls link in my sig.
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Old 02-18-2009, 11:33 PM   #30797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey guys, I got a chance to try the new LRP SPX this past weekend. I was on a fairly big track at 60x100 with a sweep on and off. I ran the Tri Duo at 10* time with the Sphere Comp rolled at 75mm which was plenty fast. I dropped the SPX in, geared down to a 67mm r/o, timed the motor at 0* & punch mode #7 as per some prior recommendations. It sounded like it was going to blow the foam off the wheels! But on the track, it did not impress me at all. I geared down two more teeth and it was about the same speed. I changed it over to mode #5 & #6 which seemed to take that radical active timing away from the profile. With the motor timed back up to 10*, r/o at 75mm in mode #5, it was basically the same as Comp. I totally struck out with the active timing profile. Anyone have a better recipe for 4 cell 13.5?

The guys said they sold like a million and half of these things at Birds, so someone had them figured out!

Brian
Brian, this is a fairy story, surely? BL promised no maintenance, more equality of motor, and ease of use. I was shouted down for saying it would be more expensive, harder to tune, and speed would depend on speedo software and not a tuner's ability. You living in some parallel universe the to the BL zealots?

We've found that zero timing isn't zero. There is a noticeable difference between motors out of the packet. Some people here tune with a rev counter (move the timing up until you get the same rpm from each motor) some by ear.

Go back to your set-up and increase the motor timing by 0.5mm (circumferential distance) at a time and see what happens. My motor runs best with 2.5mm of timing on the motor, and about 25 deg from the speedo (LRP setting No 7). It doesn't run as well with 30 deg from the speedo, and zero on the motor.
HTH
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:27 AM   #30798
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Well.... I admit that I do not do anything to the motors short of an air hose, but this whole speedo nightmare is hair pulling.

With the Duo's, you get your choice of 0, 10, or 20 as they are fixed drilled holes in the end bell. Since the holes are drilled roughly 3mm apart, my only choice would be to run the 10* time hole. Since I have not seen a "profile = timing" chart for the SPX, I will test with your recommendation. Since it sounded as it was going to blow the foam off of the wheels, it should be safe to assume that r/o is going to have to be quite a bit lower.

The 13.5 Duo certainly did not preform correctly set at 0* @ #7 rolled at 67 or 64mm in my experience.

Brian
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:41 AM   #30799
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Brian,

For what it is worth I am equally confused.

I played around with spx in both 1.12 and sedan.

I noticed a large improvement in power/lap time at about 74mm rollout with lrp motor 17.5 in 1/12 on setting 8. The lrp motor always felt like it ran a bit flat with a regular comp.

Yet with 17.5 duo motor in rubber sedan I noticed no actual difference in all different setting and rollout going up and down +/- 5 teeth and ran basically same lap times not matter what.

More I am playing around with brushless I am starting to question power difference relating more in motor variance than anything else.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:40 PM   #30800
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Default What would you do?

Ok I am really flipping the coin trying to decide what to do..

My current electronics setup for my BMI12RR is a Novak 4 cell GTB with a 13.5 SS motor. I have had this setup 2 years and is has ran great and been good, The reason I am getting away from the GTB is I cannot get the smoothness on the bottom out of it for tight tracks ( it is a bit of an on\off in the switch in the tight sections, cause the chassis to get a bit unsettled coming out of the corners)

SO my goal is looking smoothness on the bottom and having the top end gearing on the straights.

I have the following setups at my disposal:

Speed Passion GT LPF V1.1 with control box
LRP Sphere Comp 2007 speed control

Speed Passion 13.5
Novak SS13.5

What would you do?

What ever I dont use is going in my Foam TC sedan as I am kinda tired of running the rebuildable 19t missle I have in there now.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:24 PM   #30801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simulatedwood View Post
Ok I am really flipping the coin trying to decide what to do..

My current electronics setup for my BMI12RR is a Novak 4 cell GTB with a 13.5 SS motor. I have had this setup 2 years and is has ran great and been good, The reason I am getting away from the GTB is I cannot get the smoothness on the bottom out of it for tight tracks ( it is a bit of an on\off in the switch in the tight sections, cause the chassis to get a bit unsettled coming out of the corners)

SO my goal is looking smoothness on the bottom and having the top end gearing on the straights.


Have tried adjusting the drive freguency of the 4-Cell GTB.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:38 PM   #30802
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Yes, the minimum drive is set to 1.
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:26 PM   #30803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simulatedwood View Post
Ok I am really flipping the coin trying to decide what to do..

My current electronics setup for my BMI12RR is a Novak 4 cell GTB with a 13.5 SS motor. I have had this setup 2 years and is has ran great and been good, The reason I am getting away from the GTB is I cannot get the smoothness on the bottom out of it for tight tracks ( it is a bit of an on\off in the switch in the tight sections, cause the chassis to get a bit unsettled coming out of the corners)

SO my goal is looking smoothness on the bottom and having the top end gearing on the straights.

I have the following setups at my disposal:

Speed Passion GT LPF V1.1 with control box
LRP Sphere Comp 2007 speed control

Speed Passion 13.5
Novak SS13.5

What would you do?

What ever I dont use is going in my Foam TC sedan as I am kinda tired of running the rebuildable 19t missle I have in there now.
Im running the LRP/Novak in my 1/12 and its smooth as glass everywhere.

DK
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:38 PM   #30804
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Never have tried a Speed Passion ESC so canīt say anything in this direction but Iīm using LRP Sphere Comp 2007 or TC Spec in all of my cars and this works very smooth. So a Comp 2007 will also go in my brandnew DB12RR.
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:47 PM   #30805
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Originally Posted by dgullickson View Post
If anyone is in need of 1/8 ceramic balls, I made a typo in my order and got 10k, instead of 1k, so they are at a buy 1 get a free deal, free shipping (in USA) and also on sale, just click on the ceramic balls link in my sig.
Almost done with all orders, if anyone wants in on this, get your order in and it will go Tomorrow!
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:41 PM   #30806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Well.... I admit that I do not do anything to the motors short of an air hose, but this whole speedo nightmare is hair pulling.

With the Duo's, you get your choice of 0, 10, or 20 as they are fixed drilled holes in the end bell. Since the holes are drilled roughly 3mm apart, my only choice would be to run the 10* time hole. Since I have not seen a "profile = timing" chart for the SPX, I will test with your recommendation. Since it sounded as it was going to blow the foam off of the wheels, it should be safe to assume that r/o is going to have to be quite a bit lower.

The 13.5 Duo certainly did not preform correctly set at 0* @ #7 rolled at 67 or 64mm in my experience.

Brian
This may not be right, but it's working for me so far...

When you go with the increased timing, the motor becomes more power than torque, so you need to drop the gearing. On 0deg motor and 0deg timing, my 10.5 runs at about 58 mm/rev. It's OK all round the track, but lacks top end on the straight.

The more timing I add, the more top-end I get and the lower the ratio gets. At the last big race, I was running 2.5mm advance on the motor, and No 7 on the (LRP) speedo. The ratio was down to 51mm/rev. Above that, the car was slow to pick up out of corners. Also, when the advance is high, I notice that the batteries also make a difference, with my best packs being noticeably better than my worst ones. This difference goes away when you have no timing on the motor/speedo.

This might be helpful, but YMMV. HTH
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:20 AM   #30807
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Anyone have any recamendations as to what is the min torque a steering servo should have? going in a darkside 1/2th
Thanks Bud
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:05 AM   #30808
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I would look for at least 20 ounces. This is a popular question. The JR3650, Futaba 9650 & the KO946(?) have been mainstay servos. One thing I really like about the JR servo is that fact you can fine tune the center mechanically with a thin blade screw driver through the spline hole. Just be gentle, it's the pot after all!
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:14 PM   #30809
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hey guys i'm new to electric what is the difference in a sensored & sensorless brushless motor i have a crc 12th scale carpet knife car.
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:21 PM   #30810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I would look for at least 20 ounces. This is a popular question. The JR3650, Futaba 9650 & the KO946(?) have been mainstay servos. One thing I really like about the JR servo is that fact you can fine tune the center mechanically with a thin blade screw driver through the spline hole. Just be gentle, it's the pot after all!
Amazing that I had never heard about that before. I had been strugling to find out why my travel adjustment was off so much that I had to have the end point at 100% to the right and only 30% to the left. All the tie rods were the same length, servo saver good, etc. I pulled the servo saver, reset the center point on the transmiter and the adjusted the center point on the servo with that lilttle screw and WHAM! I now had to readjust the end points to where they are now only 5% different. Simply amazing! Thanks for the tip.

Last edited by SteveL; 02-20-2009 at 10:36 PM.
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