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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-13-2009, 10:19 AM   #30736
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Bob, Must be a cold dark winter there in Montana!!! Hope you get to head off and race sometime soooooooooooone as your spending WAAAAAAY to much time in a dark room with a computer!
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:15 AM   #30737
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Quick question about a slightly obscure car: I was recently gifted a Trinity Black Widow (ASC front end, Trinity damper tube rear end) and I read a little on it but couldn't find anything really specific about the setup. The chassis is about 1/4" longer than my L4 but I'm not sure what changes that requires in order to get it to handle. I've never had a damper tube car either, are there any general guidelines as far as fluid viscosity and how that affects handling? I'm really just looking for some general guidelines as far as a longer chassis is concerned, unless one of you had this little bugger in the past and can remember a generic starting setup for it. I'll be running 19 turn 4 cell. Before you ask about the type of carpet, amount of traction etc I have no idea because I haven't been out to the local tracks here in Germany yet. For tires, I've got the usual suspects: pink, double pink, grey, purple, white but no yellow, lilac newer compounds. I know this is a long shot/tall order so any help is (as always!) greatly appreciated!!!!!
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:06 AM   #30738
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Longer wheel base general tends to push a little compared to the same set-up on a short wheelbase.

Damper tubes - thicker fluid results in slower transfer of weight yeilding a little less responsive / more forgiving car. I run IRS/Speedmerchant Thick in the 10.5/19 turn car. Around 25,000 diff fluid I think although I've never run diff fluid personally.

For 19t 4-cell I would start with the pink rears and purple or softer front. THe yellow and gray rears with that much horsepower will likely feel spongy and the rear may feel like it's wondering side to side as the sidewalls flex. I would start those tires at around a 1.75" rear dia and roll out at around 2" (may start low say 1.8 and work up to it if unsure on motor/battery quality). fronts I'd start around 1.67. If the track is high bite you may even want to start closer to 1.72"-1.62" RR-FT.

Set ride height around 3.5mm to 4.25mm depending on track bumbyness. To get for steering you can run the front a little (0.25mm) lower than the rear and vice-versa.


Good Luck
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Old 02-14-2009, 02:50 PM   #30739
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That's some good info there Miller, thanks!
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:26 PM   #30740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Quick question about a slightly obscure car: I was recently gifted a Trinity Black Widow (ASC front end, Trinity damper tube rear end) and I read a little on it but couldn't find anything really specific about the setup. The chassis is about 1/4" longer than my L4 but I'm not sure what changes that requires in order to get it to handle. I've never had a damper tube car either, are there any general guidelines as far as fluid viscosity and how that affects handling? I'm really just looking for some general guidelines as far as a longer chassis is concerned, unless one of you had this little bugger in the past and can remember a generic starting setup for it. I'll be running 19 turn 4 cell. Before you ask about the type of carpet, amount of traction etc I have no idea because I haven't been out to the local tracks here in Germany yet. For tires, I've got the usual suspects: pink, double pink, grey, purple, white but no yellow, lilac newer compounds. I know this is a long shot/tall order so any help is (as always!) greatly appreciated!!!!!
I just converted my BMI with the new pod but kept the stock chassis which lenghted my car by about a 1/4" also. As was mentioned it could make the car a touch pushy and a bit lazy in a tight infield. The offset is the car should be more stable, but I have'nt been able to run my car yet to confirm my thoughts.

For dampening I've been useing the shur lube products http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...e.php?pID=1031. In general I use #4 for asphalt use and #6 on carpet, lighter outside heavier inside.

For tires I go with dpl pink all around for asphalt and yellow rears and liac fronts(Jacos), if your using a different brand that could be different. One local has been useing parma magentas all around on carpet with good results.

Hope that helps some.
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:13 AM   #30741
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Thanks Chris! So with it getting a little pushy compared to a shorter chassis would a softer front end be the way to get steering or should I look at stiffening up the rear end to get it to rotate? Is there a way to know which to do when? I mean, are there certain handling characteristics that mean I should stiffen up the rear and others that mean I should soften up the front? Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:52 AM   #30742
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Default Parma tires

Has anyone here tried running the Parma 35 shore rear tires on medium grip asphalt track?
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:09 AM   #30743
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Question, I'm still running 19t in my old 12L4. Works so good I hate to change cars but I would like to go brushless. Anyone make a good brushless centered pod to fit it? I know people are putting 10r5 pods on 12r5's but what about an L4?

Or, do brushless motors fit and balance well in a stock pod?
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:55 AM   #30744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Thanks Chris! So with it getting a little pushy compared to a shorter chassis would a softer front end be the way to get steering or should I look at stiffening up the rear end to get it to rotate? Is there a way to know which to do when? I mean, are there certain handling characteristics that mean I should stiffen up the rear and others that mean I should soften up the front? Thanks!
Hard to say really because so much of any change depends on the racing surface. But as a general rule anything that stiffens the rear should add steering, so more often than not I start with changes to the back of the car first. I hope (weather permiting) to try out out my car this comming Fri on asphalt so I'll let you know how it goes. Heck the longer wheelbase may make the car better, I just wont know untill I try it. My gameplan is to start with a generic 1/12 asphalt setup and make changes from there.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:00 AM   #30745
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Question, I'm still running 19t in my old 12L4. Works so good I hate to change cars but I would like to go brushless. Anyone make a good brushless centered pod to fit it? I know people are putting 10r5 pods on 12r5's but what about an L4?

Or, do brushless motors fit and balance well in a stock pod?
Its possible that the slapmaster pod might fit, I think his car started out baised on a 12l4 conversion.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:39 AM   #30746
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adam lancia
I saw you´re in Germany now. Where is this? Maybe some locals could help you. But there isn´t as much 1/12 scale racing in some areas I think.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:52 AM   #30747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Question, I'm still running 19t in my old 12L4. Works so good I hate to change cars but I would like to go brushless. Anyone make a good brushless centered pod to fit it? I know people are putting 10r5 pods on 12r5's but what about an L4?

Or, do brushless motors fit and balance well in a stock pod?
Brushless will fit in any pod. The weight distribution shouldn't be such noticable. And BTW Orion claims, that their brushless motors are very close to brushed motors in weight distribution and they are also a bit shorter, so you won't even have to reassemble the pod to get it in.
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:03 PM   #30748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uga View Post
Brushless will fit in any pod. The weight distribution shouldn't be such noticable. And BTW Orion claims, that their brushless motors are very close to brushed motors in weight distribution and they are also a bit shorter, so you won't even have to reassemble the pod to get it in.
That's kinda what I was thinking but with all the talk about different pods I thought I would ask. Hell, my brushed motor won't fit in the thing without taking the top plate off

With 1/12th scale cars being so cheap I'd get a new one but I've really found the set-up on this one now. The thing is absolutely dialed.
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:35 PM   #30749
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I am running brushless in my 12l4 with no problems. I too don't want to give up this car yet, but I did get the 12r5 to get ready for LiPo.
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:00 PM   #30750
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Hi Adam, I used to run a Black Widow a couple of seasons ago and had a mixed time with it. Our local winter series is held at 3 locations. One has a really big 'open' layout where most of the corners are raced at a high speed. The other 2 tracks are more traditional carpet tracks with a variety of corner speeds. The BW was awesome at the first track but I could not get it to work at all at the other 2 places! Obviously, this was down to the longer wheelbase and I do believe that Trinity did indeed bring out a replacement chassis that was shorter that was more suited to 'normal' size tracks. I used to use Parma purple fronts and grey rears. Hope that helps a little, all the best, Chris.
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