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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-28-2003, 05:00 PM   #3061
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defently get a mini servo, a standard one, will have a hard time fitting the rest of your electronics, and also it weighs alot more, which will defently throw off your handling (way too much front weight balance)
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Old 05-28-2003, 05:35 PM   #3062
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Default standard servo

Standard servos are for 10th scale cars. you should use a small servo for a 12th scale car (Air. 94145, Hitec 225HG or bb, etc.)

Can you make a standard servo fit? Yes. Is it right? No!
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:36 AM   #3063
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A freind of mine had to use a standard servo in a pinch on his carpet knife.....

It will cause 2 distnct problems......

on-power- the extra weight being transferred to th rear while accelerating will cause a fairly bad push, which can be counteracted by using stiffer center and side springs.....

Off-power- Now the weight is transferred quickly to the front and it will go from a push to oversteer ver quickly, this can be counteracted by useing stiffer front springs........

The effects can be overcome, buy you will find yourself riding a very thin line..... and if the track is even somewhat bumpy...... sorry about your luck!! Small scale servo are just too cheap not to use one IMHO....
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Old 05-30-2003, 04:52 AM   #3064
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I had an idea for making friction plate a lot more effective, tell me what you think.

In the plate between the discs, drill several holes, slightly over 1/8", maybe 9/64. Put diff balls in those holes. Then the plates will ride on teh balls. Also, if you cut the standoff that holds the top plate, and used a longer screw, you could control the spring pressure on the balls, and thus help to tune the roll.

Any thoughts on weather or not that would work?
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:28 AM   #3065
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for the plates to ride on the balls they would have to move opposite of each other, wouldn't work
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Old 05-30-2003, 02:43 PM   #3066
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
A freind of mine had to use a standard servo in a pinch on his carpet knife.....

It will cause 2 distnct problems......

on-power- the extra weight being transferred to th rear while accelerating will cause a fairly bad push, which can be counteracted by using stiffer center and side springs.....

Off-power- Now the weight is transferred quickly to the front and it will go from a push to oversteer ver quickly, this can be counteracted by useing stiffer front springs........

The effects can be overcome, buy you will find yourself riding a very thin line..... and if the track is even somewhat bumpy...... sorry about your luck!! Small scale servo are just too cheap not to use one IMHO....
thanks... will try it out next time...
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Old 06-01-2003, 12:45 PM   #3067
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Default Damper Disks on a 12L3

Please help me understand the damper disks on a 12L3.

Let's say I use no fluids on the disks the car will? React slower or faster in a curve?

Using some type of heavy fluid? Reacter faster or slower in a curve?
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Old 06-01-2003, 03:09 PM   #3068
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I am getting a Corally sp12gII in a package deal and was wondering if the 4 cell chassis of the current car (sp12m) will bolt right up or is there major differences. Never had a Corally before and always wanted one. Opinions?
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Old 06-01-2003, 03:13 PM   #3069
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I went to the smaller wires and rerouted them on my 12L3 and retweaked the t plate and my problems seem to be gone. We will see for sure next weekend. Thank you for all the help guys.
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Old 06-01-2003, 03:30 PM   #3070
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Muffin - You probably fixed all the problems when you re-routed the wires to the motor. You can probably go back to the other size wire and be OK.

Next - the two Corally cars you mentioned are totally different. There are only a few parts that are interchangable. Things like front and rear axles, motor pod, dampning pd and steering linkage. If you want one of each, your best move is to buy complete cars. I tried to piece together a 12M out of my vast stock of Corally parts and I still went back and spent over $60, and I still didn't have the latest front springs. I suggest you talk to Corally USA as there are hop-ups for the 12M that include center shock and spring system and a one piece mount for the tee-bar pivots that help the chassis for stiffness. They also have a new dampning system for the rear. Good luck.

PS - My REV3 is still faster.
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:05 AM   #3071
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Default Discharging 4-cell packs

I'm getting ready to do some 1/12 scale racing and I have a question. What's everyone using to discharge their 4-cell packs. There are plenty of choices for discharging 6 cell packs down to .9v per cell @20-30 amps, but what about 4-cell packs. The only things I've been able to find are the high-end Integy chargers and the Competition Electronic chargers.

Last edited by mushu; 06-02-2003 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 06-02-2003, 02:25 PM   #3072
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Default Mushu

I have an integy 16 X 5. It will discharge at 20 amps for a 4 cell. It cost me $165.00. I think you would need about 15 bulbs to do the same thing. At 7.2 volts one 1157 (I use 3157) bulb is 2 amps. SO for 4 cells you need more. Probably 1/3 more. BUT we do not use the current like the 6 cell guys do. That is why we have 8 minute races and can get away with 16 or 18 guage wire.

Hope I helped
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Old 06-02-2003, 07:00 PM   #3073
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I think you could use a Trinity Real Time 2 discharging tray. You can get them for 30 dollars depeding where you buy from. They take each cell down indevidually untill a certain cut-off point that's built in. Does anyone use this to discharge their packs? I use one on my 6 cell packs.
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Old 06-02-2003, 08:43 PM   #3074
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Just bought a CRC 3.1 and have a couple of setups tips that I need from you guys
Running on slightly bumpy aspalt with medium to high traction

Setup:-

tires - 35shore f/r (no color code for these locally found foams)
center shock - 10wt oil CRC copper spring
side damper - 70wt oil (no access to Losi hydrafluid)
side spring - CRC green
front caster block - 10deg?? (it's the angled ones)
caster - both white spacers infront(deg??)
camber - 1.5deg
toe-out - 0deg
traction compund - paragon(full rear/half front)

I need more turn-in(off power) steering, on power steering is good while i would prefer to lessen it slightly.
So what changes do i need to do to my current setup??

and also where does the Associated center spring fit in the the CRC spring chart from softest to hardest

Associated blue???
silver(kit)
gold(team kit)
red
copper
CRC stiff silver(.50)
CRC super stiff silver(.55)
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Old 06-02-2003, 09:16 PM   #3075
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this is what I have in my notes for center springs

Green
Silver
Gold
Blue
Red
Copper
CRC stiff silver
CRC super stiff silver
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