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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-10-2009, 10:05 AM   #30691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
One of the "top" Drivers at our club went brushless last week and did not do much better than his old brushed setup. he is running a novak 10.5 with Nimh's and running with the rest of us with 19T class and Nimh's

Should the brushless go any faster? and do you think that his setup is equal to the rest of us?

Thanks
10.5 should be faster than the 19 turn motor, even with a fresh build on the 19. Brushless definitely will have a different feel, gearing and esc tuning. It's not just a motor/esc swap. People that thought that brushless would require much less effort were just flat out wrong. Happy tuning.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:05 PM   #30692
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Thanks for the info. I am not planning on going brushless unless we do it as a club as I am still learning how to drive properly.

But I think the future looks good for brushless.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:22 PM   #30693
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Originally Posted by Fuzzy View Post
The reason why you're not getting a response is because you're asking people to do your shopping for you and that's a big list!
I'm no millionaire but that's not what I would consider a big list. I have checked Stormer as well but they've also only got a part of what I'm looking for. Just to clarify, I wasn't asking someone to do my shopping for me. I've put a handful of hours into finding this stuff all in one place and have so far failed. Many hardcore racers remember (whether they want to or not) where what parts can be found. I was simply hoping that someone would see that list (most of it staples of 12th scale) and be able to direct me to an online shop that has all of it. Now, if someone's offering to buy it all for me.....
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:23 PM   #30694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
One of the "top" Drivers at our club went brushless last week and did not do much better than his old brushed setup. he is running a novak 10.5 with Nimh's and running with the rest of us with 19T class and Nimh's

Should the brushless go any faster? and do you think that his setup is equal to the rest of us?

Thanks
once he figures out the gearing he'll be killing the 19 turns. To be on par with 19's he should be running a 13.5 not a 10.5.
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:47 PM   #30695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
I'm no millionaire but that's not what I would consider a big list. I have checked Stormer as well but they've also only got a part of what I'm looking for. Just to clarify, I wasn't asking someone to do my shopping for me. I've put a handful of hours into finding this stuff all in one place and have so far failed. Many hardcore racers remember (whether they want to or not) where what parts can be found. I was simply hoping that someone would see that list (most of it staples of 12th scale) and be able to direct me to an online shop that has all of it. Now, if someone's offering to buy it all for me.....
Adam, to be fair, most hard core racers purchase parts from their parts from the local shops... Because you cant race your cars in the mail. The local shops should have the parts on the wall, and if not will (usually) gladly order the parts in and have them in less than a week (providing the parts aren't on intergalactic back order). Not every place will have all the parts in stock all of the time.
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:34 PM   #30696
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Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Adam, to be fair, most hard core racers purchase parts from their parts from the local shops... Because you cant race your cars in the mail. The local shops should have the parts on the wall, and if not will (usually) gladly order the parts in and have them in less than a week (providing the parts aren't on intergalactic back order). Not every place will have all the parts in stock all of the time.
No doubt about that, if I had a local track (still haven't found one here in Germany that stocks anything) I'd be supporting them. The track that I would race at in Toronto has all this stuff on the wall 90% of the time and can get what's not there pretty fast. I would mail order here in Germany however, the order would be even more split up than it already is.
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:11 PM   #30697
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You were asking if someone knew of a place that sold all those items so that you could order from one place?

Maybe nobody answered because nobody knows of such a place?

Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
I'm no millionaire but that's not what I would consider a big list. I have checked Stormer as well but they've also only got a part of what I'm looking for. Just to clarify, I wasn't asking someone to do my shopping for me. I've put a handful of hours into finding this stuff all in one place and have so far failed. Many hardcore racers remember (whether they want to or not) where what parts can be found. I was simply hoping that someone would see that list (most of it staples of 12th scale) and be able to direct me to an online shop that has all of it. Now, if someone's offering to buy it all for me.....
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #30698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Thanks Randy!

Another question: I'm looking to order the following parts but I have yet to find an online store that stocks all of them together. I've checked Ashford, Amain, Tower, Horizon, Left Hander, Wind Tunnel....They all have part of the list but not all of it. Is there a shop that does stock all of this together under one roof? Thanks again for the help guys!

SMT 105 1/12th Foam Bumper Black
CRC 13451 Durashock Rebuild Kit (2)
CRC 4088 Graphite Servo Saver Brace
CRC 4123 Belleville Spng wash-3 bolt(2)
CRC 4284 VCS Dura-Shock Conversion Shock Color : Silver Anodized
XRA 305780 X-Ray Spur Gear 48 Pitch # of Teeth / Pitch : 99Tooth / 48 Pitch
ASC 7320 Body Mount Large Washer (4)
CRC 1409 Anodized 4-40 Ball Studs (4)
CRC 4126 8-32 Nylon Locknut (2)
CRC 4019 Aluminum Pivot balls for T-bar
Futaba Gear Set S9650
Associated Pivoting Body Mounts TC3
Associated Silicone Shock Oil 30 Weight 2 oz
Kimbrough Differential Gear 64P 88T
Trinity R-Minus Gold Battery Connector Set
Associated Factory Team Turnbuckle 1.775" 45mm (2)
the reason you're not going to find all that at one place is just simple logistics. Horizon doesn't do Futaba... so they're out, Tower doesn't do Xray, so that's out. Keep going and it gets worse, depending on who is out of what, at that INSTANT.

I don't know who SMT is. Neither do Horizon or Tower.

the same search term that found "r minus" connectors at Tower and Stormer, did not at Horizon (but I know they do carry them).

There are 7 items don't have part numbers, so you're at the mercy of everbodys search engines, and not everything is listed the same.

Also, you have 16 items and perhaps a dozen solid vendors to choose from to look for stuff. Even if you are smooth and know every shops search engines and can knock out 2 solid searches a minute, you're gonna spend about 96 minutes of just searching. AND, any shop with LIVE inventory like Stormer could show it one minute, sold out the next. now you have to start over.

It's not that nobody was willing to respond, it's just that you started what is potentially a 2 hour long scavenger hunt with only one pre-determined winner

Here's how far I got on the list before I realized the length of potential work involved. ...lol... I made it 2 numbers for 3 vendors when I broke out the calculator.

And just because it doesn't come up in your first attempt at searching it, doesn't mean it's not there. What's a ball cup for some is a rod end for others, etc.

CRC13451, Tower doesn't list it, Horizon is out, Stormer doesn't list it.
CRC4088, Stormer has it, Horizon has it, Tower doesn't list it.
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:12 PM   #30699
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Someone's got a little too much time on their hands....
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:29 PM   #30700
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I'm thinkin' the SMT part no. is slapmaster, Bob.
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:43 PM   #30701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggy1 View Post
I'm thinkin' the SMT part no. is slapmaster, Bob.
yep

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=4684
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:53 PM   #30703
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and

http://ashfordhobby.com/SearchResult...ords=kimbrough
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:56 PM   #30704
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No AE turnbuckles but he does have lunsford Ti ones of the right length. Not quite everything but that covers most of it.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:22 PM   #30705
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looking at kits for the 1/12 scale.

AE 12R5 has a blurb about a wide rear pod to fit the brushless motor. Are there any other kits the brushless fit.

Just seeing what options I have.
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