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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-09-2009, 08:50 AM   #30661
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I'm all for Lipo but not in stock with different motors. Single cell lipo isn't to practicle sounding anyway. When its time to make the switch away from NIHM we should just make that switch and allow old NIHM racers to still participate until they upgrade to the new rules.

2 seperate classes is not the awnser at the club level. The more racers per class the better. We shouldn't thin out the class further. Isn't one of the reasons pan cars are coming back because there is only one class and one set of rules for better racing. It seems for WGT and 1/12th everyone only has one class for each:17.5, 4cell.

If we have to run lipo why not bring back Mod. Any motor, Any battery. 2 stock classes and a mod is too much, but I still think there should only be one class unless you really have alot of racers showing up.

Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.)

Lets just stay with Nihm a little longer until the tech gets worked out so that everyone can run the same battery/motor like stock was intended.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:31 AM   #30662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I'm all for Lipo but not in stock with different motors. Single cell lipo isn't to practicle sounding anyway. When its time to make the switch away from NIHM we should just make that switch and allow old NIHM racers to still participate until they upgrade to the new rules.
This is what is happening on our local level. We have a bunch of racers that don't want round cells. Therefore the mix. Eventually it will become one wind motor, single cell. But while everyone is migrating we are loosening up the rules.

Quote:
2 seperate classes is not the awnser at the club level. The more racers per class the better.
This is true. Before the birds we had a 17.5 and a 13.5 class to get the 'expert' drivers away from the noobs. This was done just long enough for them to get their legs. Now we are pushing to get everyone back under one class. Rules will be lax for a couple more weeks.

Quote:
If we have to run lipo why not bring back Mod. Any motor, Any battery. 2 stock classes and a mod is too much, but I still think there should only be one class unless you really have alot of racers showing up.
exactly.

Quote:
Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.)
I like the idea of the a123 tech. However, as I have told their engineers in the past (they visited our track on a number of occasions), unless they get their batteries approved for competition, and get manufacturers to start to make cars around their odd-ball sized batteries, adoption will be spotty at best. Their cells are oversized, overweight and underpowered compared to the technology that has been adopted. It is hardly compatible with what we run. We have had guys at our track try running an underpowered motor with 2s2p, and they were ballistic for the first 6 minutes, then they dumped. Even playing with gearing and throttle didn't help.

Now, for a rx pack, it should be fine. Instead of going for the all-out voltage reg route, try just a diode inline with your RX and see if it would knock the voltage down to a usable level. It would eliminate some useless clutter, and can be shrink wrapped inline with the feed wire. Just use a smaller separate harness to charge with...
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:08 PM   #30663
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what is the tire combo of choice for 17.5 on low and high bite?
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:15 PM   #30664
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Default Storing front springs?

Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?

All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs.

Best,
Peter
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:20 PM   #30665
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Originally Posted by SPC Racer View Post
what is the tire combo of choice for 17.5 on low and high bite?
yellow rears and magenta fronts go good on most carpet tracks. in really high bite conditions its a good idea to glue the outside edge of all four tires. there are so many good combos. it is also about how you want your car to drive (agressive, easy to drive etc)
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:21 PM   #30666
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Originally Posted by SPC Racer View Post
what is the tire combo of choice for 17.5 on low and high bite?
Around here it's yellow rears and fronts to get the bite you need. Double pinks, magenta's, or purple.

Pink rears don't seem to chunk as easily but they're a little slower. If you're running at a track that has a ton of traction or tends to pick up crud on the tires (tracks that run TQ8) black fronts will help stop the build up.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:05 PM   #30667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petk View Post
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?

All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs.

Best,
Peter
A pair of springs on a screw with a piece of masking tape showing what coil thickness they are.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:27 PM   #30668
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on carpet, yelow rear and lilac fronts. high or low bite. i have been successfull with gray rears, but they get a little squirly at 7min.

7 day pill holders re your friend for all your 1/12th all parts needs. they have some with locking caps to keep parts from spilling out.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:31 PM   #30669
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I'm all for Lipo but not in stock with different motors. Single cell lipo isn't to practicle sounding anyway. When its time to make the switch away from NIHM we should just make that switch and allow old NIHM racers to still participate until they upgrade to the new rules.

2 seperate classes is not the awnser at the club level. The more racers per class the better. We shouldn't thin out the class further. Isn't one of the reasons pan cars are coming back because there is only one class and one set of rules for better racing. It seems for WGT and 1/12th everyone only has one class for each:17.5, 4cell.

If we have to run lipo why not bring back Mod. Any motor, Any battery. 2 stock classes and a mod is too much, but I still think there should only be one class unless you really have alot of racers showing up.

Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.)

Lets just stay with Nihm a little longer until the tech gets worked out so that everyone can run the same battery/motor like stock was intended.
There is an easy solution to this problem. Set a minimum weight on these lipo cars and enforce it at your local club. 740 grams.

Now everyone can run togather and be one big happy family.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:35 PM   #30670
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+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.

What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!

I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:42 PM   #30671
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Go to the local pharmacy and get a 7 day pill organizer. You can seperate out each spring rate. Works great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by petk View Post
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?

All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs.

Best,
Peter
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:42 PM   #30672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petk View Post
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?

All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs.

Best,
Peter
Bead orginizers from the arts and crafts stores work well. However, given that you really only use .018's and .020's, and on a RARE occasion .022's, and that these springs tend to lose tension as they age and cost less than 2 bucks a pair, I wouldn't bother keeping old springs. I'd rather spend 20 bucks and carry 10 pairs of new springs and swap them out for fresh ones as needed.

-James
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:44 PM   #30673
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.

What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!

I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side.
Use a 150mm or longer depending on how you route it. I just put one in my 12r5 with a Sphere on the left.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:48 PM   #30674
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.

What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!

I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side.
left hand side looking from front or back? if opposite side of sensor port 175 if same side use the 110 or 125. i run his 175 on my gen x opposite side of sensor port
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:59 PM   #30675
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The ESC is mounted on the "drivers side", same as the motor. The sensor input is on the far left side of the chassis. Sounds like 125-150 should work.
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