R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-08-2009, 12:53 PM   #30631
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky/C View Post
Hi guys, I got myself a Carpet Knife

Has anyone got a few tips or tricks?! My ESC is broken at the mo, so I couldn't run it yet?
Welcome to the club.

I am also new (started racing the CK 3.2R in November) And I love it. It may not be as good as the GenX but I have made some inprovements.

The first thing I would do it tear the car totally down if it was used. Check to see if the chassis is flat and true. (no warping o twisting)

If that looks good take a look at mark Payne's blog on setting up the 3.2

read this first http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...g-and-pod.html

Then this one http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...c-balance.html

After that if you have the GenX Pro-strut front end then he also has a building of that one too.

Great racing starts with a very precise car. but the biggest thing I think anyone will tell you is

1) Practice
2) talk to your fellow racers about what to run as in tires, compound, springs etc.
3) Practice
4) Practice
5) take your time setting up your car and getting it to where you like it's handling. not everyone drives the same.
6) Practice

Repeat
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 01:06 PM   #30632
Tech Adept
 
Ricky/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Africa
Posts: 178
Send a message via MSN to Ricky/C
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Welcome to the club.

I am also new (started racing the CK 3.2R in November) And I love it. It may not be as good as the GenX but I have made some inprovements.

The first thing I would do it tear the car totally down if it was used. Check to see if the chassis is flat and true. (no warping o twisting)

If that looks good take a look at mark Payne's blog on setting up the 3.2

read this first http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...g-and-pod.html

Then this one http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...c-balance.html

After that if you have the GenX Pro-strut front end then he also has a building of that one too.

Great racing starts with a very precise car. but the biggest thing I think anyone will tell you is

1) Practice
2) talk to your fellow racers about what to run as in tires, compound, springs etc.
3) Practice
4) Practice
5) take your time setting up your car and getting it to where you like it's handling. not everyone drives the same.
6) Practice

Repeat
Thanks! Thats the type of reply that helps

I've got the Gen-X Pro, sorry I forgot to mention that.

I'll read up on that then!
__________________
TRF 416 WE | LRP SPX Stock Spec| 17.5 SP | Sanwa M11
TRF 416 WE | LRP TC Sphere | Novak 3.5 | Sanwa M11

www.oneten.co.za >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Home of RC in SA
Ricky/C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:47 PM   #30633
Tech Apprentice
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Poland Warsaw
Posts: 71
Default

Hi,

Im willing to attend European Championships in 12 class spec ( 10.5 motors)

I normally race modified 12 class and generally have no experience in 12 spec class.

In modified we use 12mm rotors instead of standard ones.

How is it in Stock racing? do you use 12mm rotors or du you replace them with bigger ones? ( as in Touring cars they do ?? )

And what brand of motors would you recommend? Will LRP X11 be any good??
blazeblazucki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:59 PM   #30634
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Just get the 60/40 rosin core solder from Radio Shack. No need on spending the extra for Deans solder. I crank my Hakko up over 800 degrees for any soldering chores.
agreed, i just had some old deans solder in the box and i recalled that it seemed to flow sooner (either a lower temp or higher conductivity?) than the 60/40 kester that i normally use.

i couldnt' find the 1/4 inch tip so i picked up a hakko 456 (60 watt). whew! this is a brutish instrument but it did make the solder flow! it is scary hot, using it feels more like I am forging steel rather than making an electrical connection.
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 06:05 PM   #30635
Tech Adept
 
Lee_123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Somewhere over there, S.E. PA
Posts: 243
Default Need some help with the front end

Hi everyone,
I need some help.

I'm have trouble getting around the track consistently. At slow speeds I seem to have way too large a turning radius. At higher speeds I seem to drifting out way too much. To make a tight 180 degree turn I have to blip the throttle to get the rear end around. The track is ozite about 75 foot by 25 foot with narrowish lanes.

I have an Associated 12LW2 point whatever, (it's been modified a bit)

Motor is a Trinity Cobalt 27. Roll out around 2.45 inchs/62 mm.

I have a TRC front end, running 0 degrees caster, shims centered, camber about 1 degree, toe in about 0 degrees, ball joint are in the holes closest to the servo screw, the tires are Jaco double pinks in front (switched from purple, an improvement), Jaco Yellows in the rear, Paragon FX on the inside half of the fronts, and full coverage on the rear. The caster king pin is in the upper hole on the caster block.

Any recommendations on adjusting the caster, camber, tire selection or other considerations would be apprecitated.

Also, what are the advantages of removing the middle screw in the T bar on the pod plate.

Thanks, Lee B.
__________________
.
Member of "The Seldom Seen R/C Racing Team"

RC10L (Pro 10, WGT), TC4, BMI DB12RR, Scalpel
Lee_123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 06:09 PM   #30636
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,638
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Sounds like you need to increase your steering throw. Turn up the dual rate on your radio.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 08:23 PM   #30637
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Hi everyone,
I need some help.

I'm have trouble getting around the track consistently. At slow speeds I seem to have way too large a turning radius. At higher speeds I seem to drifting out way too much. To make a tight 180 degree turn I have to blip the throttle to get the rear end around. The track is ozite about 75 foot by 25 foot with narrowish lanes.

I have an Associated 12LW2 point whatever, (it's been modified a bit)

Motor is a Trinity Cobalt 27. Roll out around 2.45 inchs/62 mm.

I have a TRC front end, running 0 degrees caster, shims centered, camber about 1 degree, toe in about 0 degrees, ball joint are in the holes closest to the servo screw, the tires are Jaco double pinks in front (switched from purple, an improvement), Jaco Yellows in the rear, Paragon FX on the inside half of the fronts, and full coverage on the rear. The caster king pin is in the upper hole on the caster block.

Any recommendations on adjusting the caster, camber, tire selection or other considerations would be apprecitated.

Also, what are the advantages of removing the middle screw in the T bar on the pod plate.

Thanks, Lee B.
First, I've not seen ANY car that can make a 180* turn at the end of a straightaway whitout having to "blip" the throttle some! You are asking for a lot and if my car could do that I would hate to think how it would drive in slower sections.

If your car takes more than half the lane to turn around at slow speed, I agree with the previous poster to increase the steering throw a little, just a little. Having to much throw just makes the car twitchy and unless you are very controlled with the steering wheel, will just scrub speed. You can also add a smidge of toe out but not too much, add caster, go with softer front springs or dope more front tire. Just do one of these at a time to see if the problem goes away. Adding all at once will likely just make the car drive like crap and you won't have any idea of which change made it that way.

On the center screw in the t-bar question, all it will do is add rear bite by making the rear a tad softer and more suceptable to breakage. This was a trick we used years ago on asphalt before the newer tire compunds were available. We even relpaced all three spacers on the t-bar with rubber o-rings on occassion.
SteveL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 09:17 PM   #30638
Tech Adept
 
butrflynlambie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 192
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

looking at possibly getting into 1/12

I prefer lipo, but am not sure if there are any lipo batts. made for 1/12. I do see there are several approved saddle packs but not sure if they are only for 1/10 scale. Anyone running lipo with 1/12, if so please post brand /model.

Looking at some of the kits online they look fairly equivalent in quality. So I will most likely buy a kit that is most popular. Anyone have an idea of what kit is selling the most?
butrflynlambie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 09:40 PM   #30639
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

SMC hasa single cell lipo that people have been using in their 12th scales along with a 13.5 bl.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 10:00 PM   #30640
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 225
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
SMC hasa single cell lipo that people have been using in their 12th scales along with a 13.5 bl.
Some of the tracks in my area have begun separating the lipo guys from the NMH guys. Guys are complaining that there is a major speed difference. Has anyone else experienced this when running them togather?

Travis
march to my own is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 03:53 AM   #30641
Tech Apprentice
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Poland Warsaw
Posts: 71
Default

Can someone help me whith my problem ? ( i asked about 10.5 stock motors few posts earlier)

Dont say that none of you race 10.5 ????

Let me know your secrets about tuning these motors
blazeblazucki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 04:34 AM   #30642
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 526
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by march to my own View Post
Some of the tracks in my area have begun separating the lipo guys from the NMH guys. Guys are complaining that there is a major speed difference. Has anyone else experienced this when running them togather?

Travis
At my track I run 4 cell 9.5 (stock class in Germany...), there's a bunch of people running a 2S lipo with a 13.5 and speed/overall power is very comparable.
Cornering speed however seems to be a bit higher, prolly because of the lighter cars.
__________________
Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.
Quante is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 04:57 AM   #30643
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by march to my own View Post
Some of the tracks in my area have begun separating the lipo guys from the NMH guys. Guys are complaining that there is a major speed difference. Has anyone else experienced this when running them togather?

Travis
Here is how I see it.

The 13.5/1cell is like nats 17.5/4cell power. Just a land missile for a stock car. Love it btw. Think its perfect.

The 17.5/1cell is like club racing 17.5/4cell power. Just a dead fish to drive on the infield. No snap, punch or life but carrys the same speed down the strait.

WAY too many cry babies to run in the same class so they will probly have to be serperated. At least, at my track.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 05:03 AM   #30644
Tech Master
 
miller tyme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by march to my own View Post
Some of the tracks in my area have begun separating the lipo guys from the NMH guys. Guys are complaining that there is a major speed difference. Has anyone else experienced this when running them togather?

Travis
Definitely noticed it. I quit running 1/12 if the track I go to allows Li-Po / 13.5 to run with stock.
Anyone who says they are close:
A) close ain't equal
B) needs to work on the set-up cause the 13.5 is way faster without making it run at 865g brushless weight.

Not being a Cry babie, but you run ROAR legal motors in basically a ROAR class and stock is 17.5, if you want to run a lipo fine your disadvantage, if you want to run 13.5 to make up for your disadvantage, I see it as cheating. If the track allows it then they should allow me to run NiMh 13.5 in the same class.
__________________
Ken Miller
RC America - X-Ray - ORCA - EA Motorsorts - Pro Level RC - Sanwa - TQ Wire - ProOne Racing Tires -

LONG LIVE OPEN MODIFIED
miller tyme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 05:59 AM   #30645
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 92
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blazeblazucki View Post
Hi,

Im willing to attend European Championships in 12 class spec ( 10.5 motors)

I normally race modified 12 class and generally have no experience in 12 spec class.

In modified we use 12mm rotors instead of standard ones.

How is it in Stock racing? do you use 12mm rotors or du you replace them with bigger ones? ( as in Touring cars they do ?? )

And what brand of motors would you recommend? Will LRP X11 be any good??
The LRP / Nosram 10.5 is fine, the regulations are quite tight, it is unlikely any one brand will have a significant advantage over another once setup correctly.
Advance the timing by about 3 mm and use punch setting 5 on the Sphere controller, gear at 54mm to start.
Do not change the rotor, the modified rotors are not legal for use in the spec motor.
reynard55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:11 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0