R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-06-2009, 04:20 AM   #30616
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EugeneJohn View Post
I'll vouch for Slapmasters new kit, Just got mine and the quality is awesome!
Can't wait to get mine together. Anyone lookin for an 12R5?

PM me the info and pics.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 10:05 AM   #30617
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

The rear pod took quite a bit of development. I cut out over half a dozen top plates and subjected them of local approval. The lower plate is unique because of the 6 pack set of holes for the t-bar. The shorter CEFX style t-bars use the forward set while the Asc style uses the rear set. The short bar allows even taller 17.5 ratios if needed, although you can easily reach upper 90's/3.75" r/o with the Asc. The motor tabs face forward for a nice clean appearance, no "over wiring" to get in the way of the body.

I will have to take some pic's of the car loaded. It gets a little tight with a Futaba servo in mounts and a GTB. I use Spektrum rx, LRP Sphere's and JR 3650 with lots of room.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-p1010037_2.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010038_2.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010028_3.jpg  
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 02:14 PM   #30618
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,053
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey gang,
Just want to announce that I have an updated version of the MS3 ready to go. It's still a conversion kit of sorts, but it now comes with all proprietary parts for a brushless balanced rear pod. I have sampled various manufacturers parts for an unbelievably great t-bar car to drive. This car is already taking the northwest by storm. It's already captured the NWIC Series by round 4, with MS3's filling in the remaining podium spots. The last race in Kennewick, Wa, MS3's took TQ and the top 5 spots!

The new rear pod has been the latest focus for the car. I wanted a pod that was balanced first, then easy to get the motor in & out, then be reasonable to solder up without taking anything apart. I feel that I met all of those challenges. Actually you need to be careful not to drop the motor on the floor! I choose to use two CRC motor plates from the GenX to create a symmetrical rectangular pod. Two reasons for that: the t-bar flex influence to the pod is identical at both sides & if you had a bad crash and did manage to bend a motor plate, you could swap sides to finish your day up without going home early.

I have two different style of t-bars that can be used with the new pod. You can use a standard Associated style t-bar and a CEFX style shorter t-bar. I was lucky enough to get Josh to cut out a big batch of these short t-bars in between his busy schedule. Each t-bar performs slightly different then the other. Often, one may hold lower lap times in the 7th minute based on carpet conditions. Having the option to go between the two bars has been a real plus.

Lately, I have really fallen in love with the CRC Pro-strut front end. Besides being versatile, it's very accurately molded. The MS3 will also take the Associated Dynamic front end with the IRS lower arms. The instructions call out all the little "mod" tricks to make the front end perfect.

The kit contains: the molded carbon tubbed chassis, rear chassis brace, t-bar, all the carbon fiber rear pod parts, bumper, blue hardware, stickers, instructions, and set up sheets.

It may seem late in the season to pick up another ride, but if you are looking for something fun, different and want to turn a few heads (and some fast laps) this is a must look. The website does not have the new pictures or info up yet, so here's few to get you by.

Brian
www.slapmastertools.com

Car looks sweet Brian!!! Keep up the good work.

-Korey
__________________
Pro Spec America/Apex RC - Team ORCA - Awesomatix USA - Roche RC USA - AVID - Sweep - Protoform - Pro-One RC - Slapmaster Tools - Hebiki Design Works - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers - Timezone Hobbies
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 02:38 PM   #30619
Tech Elite
 
Bob-Stormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glasgow, Montana USA
Posts: 3,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey gang,
Just want to announce that I have an updated version of the MS3 ready to go.
Knock it off already... I still haven't built the car I got from you 3 years ago. ...lol...
__________________
www.stormerhobbies.com "Where the world shops for radio control."
www.facebook.com/stormerhobbies
www.twitter.com/stormerhobbies

looking for....vintage 1/10-1/12 pan, need Schumacher 1/12th cars and parts.
Bob-Stormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 02:40 PM   #30620
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Very nicely done Brian. Does the new car accomodate the Phoenix style t-bars as well?
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 03:06 PM   #30621
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
Knock it off already... I still haven't built the car I got from you 3 years ago. ...lol...
You better start building before the next version comes out.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 06:09 PM   #30622
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Bob, you like collector stuff.

James, no I didn't have the lower plate drilled for the Phoenix pattern. I haven't spent anytime with that t-bar to date. I am sure that Josh designed that way for a reason. This car works very well in this configuration and it's going to be tough for me to top it.

The nice thing about this kit is it's not the beta version. It's been on the track since March of '08. It's gone through some very subtle changes and additions. I've made a slight change in screw hardware and cut technique. I hooked up with Doug from Powell Racing to cut the flat parts. I am very pleased with the end result.

I have a local team of guys going to Carpet Nat's with me in March that should be pretty exciting. We are doing outstanding locally, but it's time to see how the car really measures up. I have besides myself, there will be Dave Ehrlick, Canyon Thompson and Kody Knutson. All of these guys are wheels in their own right, it's going to fun to see how they do.
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 03:35 AM   #30623
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Modena
Posts: 39
Default Question about rc12L4

Hi guys,I'm new for this forum,hi to everyone!!
I've just bought an Asso rc12L4,I need to know which is the best basic set up for asphalt competitions and which are tricks (eventually) about put some compound on a tire: somewhere I read about an immersion of tire in tire tweak,I normally apply jack the gripper totally on rear tires one hour before the heat and I let it soaking.
Many thanks for your help,
cheers,
Paolo
bazspencer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 08:57 AM   #30624
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default ener-g 4600 soldering

hi all, i am just trying to get going with a 1/12 scale and was wondering if you are getting the same experience soldering these 4600 cells.
my experience base is more on the old sanyo 1700 and 2000 nicads with deans conneters, where it took just a few seconds with a 3/16" chisel tip to get it hot enough for the solder to wick under the connector and the battery surface.

i just got some 4600's and bichn bars, and find that in order to get solder to flow under the connector, i have to leave the tip on for what seems too long that i might damage the cell. because these things are 4600's there must be more mass inside the cell.

this isn't directly a 1/12 question, i thought you all might have the most relevant experience (and if you are older could contrast your experience between nicads and todays cells)

thannks in advance for info,

ps: my eyes are still bleary from reading the last 2years of this thread, which has been very helpful.
avs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 09:07 AM   #30625
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Helpful hints:

Scuff the ends of the cells with a Scotchbrite or sand paper
Clean the ends of the cells with motor spray
Tin the ends of the cells until you have a little puddle of solder
Use a battery jig to hold the bars in place
Apply heat to the end of the bar and it will "sink" into the solder
Allow to cool between each step

With a good iron, you should only need to apply heat for 2-3 seconds
Use a good iron (Hakko 936 works great), the hotter the better, since you'll only need to apply the heat for a short time.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 09:25 AM   #30626
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
hi all, i am just trying to get going with a 1/12 scale and was wondering if you are getting the same experience soldering these 4600 cells.
my experience base is more on the old sanyo 1700 and 2000 nicads with deans conneters, where it took just a few seconds with a 3/16" chisel tip to get it hot enough for the solder to wick under the connector and the battery surface.

i just got some 4600's and bichn bars, and find that in order to get solder to flow under the connector, i have to leave the tip on for what seems too long that i might damage the cell. because these things are 4600's there must be more mass inside the cell.

this isn't directly a 1/12 question, i thought you all might have the most relevant experience (and if you are older could contrast your experience between nicads and todays cells)

thannks in advance for info,

ps: my eyes are still bleary from reading the last 2years of this thread, which has been very helpful.
You must have an iron that gets super hot. I only use a Hako 460.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=422&Page=1

Tin each end of the bar with a fair amount of solder.
Scuff the end of the battery. I use a dremel with a wire wheel or a fine stone.
Place a small amount of flux on the end of the battery where the tab will be soldered and where you scuffed the battery.
Use a good jig that has a bar holder like Dean's used to make. I have seen some new manufactures making these.
With the bar in place, put a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron and then hold the tip on the battery bar until you see the solder that you placed on the bar earlier starting to seep out from the edges of the bar.
Use motor spray to remove any flux. This will prevent your batteries from picking up dirt, dust and tire crumbs off of the track.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 02:07 PM   #30627
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

i have always used a 60w weller soldering station (currently known as WTCPT) the tip is magnetic to control temp so you buy a 6 7 or 800F temp tip. i use an modified deans battery jig and deans solder.

i am using a 800F 3/16" tip but i think used to have a 1/4" one for batteries.
the solder ball on the cell gets flattened quickly when i heat the bar on top, however the solder just doesn't want to flow out from the bottom of the bar.
i cleaned the surface but did not scuff it. i never used to use flux just what was in the solder (deans)

i will try scuffing and flux. maybe the temp is high enough but the solder won't flow without help.

thanks again for the replies.
avs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2009, 02:17 PM   #30628
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Just get the 60/40 rosin core solder from Radio Shack. No need on spending the extra for Deans solder. I crank my Hakko up over 800 degrees for any soldering chores.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 07:20 AM   #30629
Tech Apprentice
 
rsperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Default I like the Goot CXG-38

Its all modular - and ceramic - easily replaceable parts.

Probably had it 10 years already - much better then the old school Ungar.

Like a blow-torch vs a match. I found it with tools for stained glass work.
rsperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 11:42 AM   #30630
Tech Adept
 
Ricky/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Africa
Posts: 178
Send a message via MSN to Ricky/C
Default CRC Carpet Knife

Hi guys, I got myself a Carpet Knife

Has anyone got a few tips or tricks?! My ESC is broken at the mo, so I couldn't run it yet?
__________________
TRF 416 WE | LRP SPX Stock Spec| 17.5 SP | Sanwa M11
TRF 416 WE | LRP TC Sphere | Novak 3.5 | Sanwa M11

www.oneten.co.za >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Home of RC in SA
Ricky/C is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (1 members and 3 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0