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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 02-04-2009, 03:21 PM   #30601
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Originally Posted by Ricky/C View Post
Hi guys yesterday I asked about the AE L4, today I want to know about the CRC Carper Knife...

Is it any good? Will it be cometative against new chassis? How is it compared to the L4? Will I get spares and and and?!

Also... This might be stupid, but its name is - carpet knife... So will it be any good on asphalt or tarmac? We dont run carpet here
Ive got a CRC Carpet knife. Love the car. Easy to tune and yes you can get parts. Not too sure about anything but carpet though.

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Old 02-04-2009, 05:14 PM   #30602
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adam, have you tried FastCats? i think they stock quite a bit of the CRC stuff.

Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Thanks Randy!

Another question: I'm looking to order the following parts but I have yet to find an online store that stocks all of them together. I've checked Ashford, Amain, Tower, Horizon, Left Hander, Wind Tunnel....They all have part of the list but not all of it. Is there a shop that does stock all of this together under one roof? Thanks again for the help guys!

SMT 105 1/12th Foam Bumper Black
CRC 13451 Durashock Rebuild Kit (2)
CRC 4088 Graphite Servo Saver Brace
CRC 4123 Belleville Spng wash-3 bolt(2)
CRC 4284 VCS Dura-Shock Conversion Shock Color : Silver Anodized
XRA 305780 X-Ray Spur Gear 48 Pitch # of Teeth / Pitch : 99Tooth / 48 Pitch
ASC 7320 Body Mount Large Washer (4)
CRC 1409 Anodized 4-40 Ball Studs (4)
CRC 4126 8-32 Nylon Locknut (2)
CRC 4019 Aluminum Pivot balls for T-bar
Futaba Gear Set S9650
Associated Pivoting Body Mounts TC3
Associated Silicone Shock Oil 30 Weight 2 oz
Kimbrough Differential Gear 64P 88T
Trinity R-Minus Gold Battery Connector Set
Associated Factory Team Turnbuckle 1.775" 45mm (2)
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Old 02-04-2009, 05:35 PM   #30603
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Default New Parma Blackhawk 1/12 tires

Parma is proud to introduce their updated Foam tire line for TC and 1/12. For TC we have kept the same race winning wheel, lowered the retail price to $18.00 and added some new compounds. In 1/12 we went with a black wheel (jaco wheel) added new compounds and lowered the retail price to $18.00 a pair. Here are some 1/12 cars in action from the Snowbirds courtesy of RC Action Pics.
New Parma TC tire compounds and Blackhawk 1/12 tires
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-snowbirds_2009_sunday_077.jpg   1/12 forum-snowbirds_2009_sunday_071.jpg   1/12 forum-snowbirds_2009_sunday_149.jpg   1/12 forum-snowbirds_2009_sunday_083.jpg  
Serpent America, Picco, Blitz Bodies, Team Titan, Desoto Racing, LRP, Motiv, J Concepts, Nitro Pro fuel, PT RC Racing Oils, TQ Wire(best wire ever!), BSR tires, Arrowmax, Xceed, Sanwa.
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:09 PM   #30604
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Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
What's the best traction compound to use on foam tires and Ozite carpet? And it cant be that stinky stuff.
In Finland most tracks have Ozite carpet.
In the nationals two weeks ago about 60-70% of people use CS High Grip. The rest are mostly using Jack the Gripper.

My son drives in modified with Gen-x. We and some other drivers too experienced quite similar problems last year. The reason for the problem was poor gluing of the rear tires. The batch of Yokomo tires had great tracktion but they just wanted to get off the rim all the time. Not just the edge but we needed to really re-glue the foam to the plastic rim.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:20 AM   #30605
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Hi all I have a CRC carpet knife for sale. If your keen check australian racing/australia for trade. will post worldwide Cheers,
My Crime----RC10R5----MAMBA----KO----FUTABA----TAMIYA----ARROW XE-28----KT100S

My Defence "Wouldn't you rather me play with my Toys than go out to a pub drinking?"
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Old 02-05-2009, 05:16 AM   #30606
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Ive got a CRC Carpet knife. Love the car. Easy to tune and yes you can get parts. Not too sure about anything but carpet though.

Thanks. So does anyone know if the CRC is good on tarmac???

And which will be better then? I'm only going to be racing tarmac, so no point in buying something that wont work so good
TRF 416 WE | LRP SPX Stock Spec| 17.5 SP | Sanwa M11
TRF 416 WE | LRP TC Sphere | Novak 3.5 | Sanwa M11

www.oneten.co.za >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Home of RC in SA
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:44 AM   #30607
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Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Don't thank me yet... I only asked a question so far... this should help...

First, with the ProStrut front end on my GenX I run the 045 springs, the 050's would probably be better on a low grip track, but for carpet I think the 045 would be the way to go. The 050's are the stock spring on the ProStrut front end, so switching to 045 should get you some more steering.

Second, be sure you don't have any preload on the front spring. It's easy to screw the kingpin too far into the steering block and compress the front spring when you put the eclip on. You'll want to loosen the brass setscrew, get the kingpin back into the ball (my allen wrench is real short, so I have to lift the kingpin out of the ball to get to the setscrew) and with the kingpin in the ball hod the car upside down, slip the spring onto the kingpin, then holding thh steering block against the lower ball, adjust the length of the kingpin so that the e-clip groove is JUST clear of the end of the spring. Lock the setscrew back down, and install the eclip. There should be no slop, but the least little pressure on the bottom of the kingpin should start the spring compressing. When the car is sitting on its wheels, you should see a slight gap between the steering block and the top of the ball in the lower arm. If the car's own weight doesn't have a little compression gap there, the kingpin is set too short. It can be a fiddly process, sometimes it'll take me almost an hour to get the kingpin lengths set just right.

Make sure the balls in the lower arms are installed with the little shoulder facing UP... if they're not, the front end won't be working right.

One other thing... there shouldn't be any friction at the upper arm... no binding at the hingepin, and the upper pivot ball mustn't be too tight. With no spring, if you push up on the kingpin, the upper arm and steering block should fall back down of their own weight. If they stay up, find the friction and get rid of it. Some of the CRC upper arms are tight on the hingepin out of the mold. When the upper arm is off the car, I put a hingepin in it. If the hingepin won't fall out of the arm just of its own weight, I open the holes in the arm up with an .080 drill bit on low speed. Or an .080 reamer if you can get one. If the arm is free on the hingepin but still binds on the car, you might need to give the teflon shims a swipe or two on some fine sandpaper, like 600 grit. They usually break in after a few runs, but they can be a little tight when you first build the front end.

Friction and preload in the front end can make the car steer like you're running two or three spring rates too heavy, so whatever time and effort it takes to get the front end friction free is well spent.
Hey Trip,

I agree with you to a point about spring settup. I think it is crutial to get the kingpins measured to the correct length but you also have to take into consideration that after a few runs the springs will compress/settle a bit. Now all of sudden you have to much play between the e-clip and spring. One way to eliminate this problem is to take a new spring and compress it and hold tight in your fingers a few times to settle it in. After you do both springs measure with calipers to ensure the are exactly the same. Now put the FE togather per your instruction.

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Old 02-05-2009, 07:51 AM   #30608
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I have that PDF and I need to print it out for track use.

I really need to start a new document on how to setup these cars and have it in my pit box cause I keep on forgetting all of these good tips on race day.

I really like mark payne's blog for the front end setup I just found

I will have to put this into a doc too and keep it for the track.

Those are the "Josh Cyrul settup sheet notes" compiled nicely into the "Rich Chang settup sheet".

Have been wanting to clear that up for a long time
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:37 AM   #30609
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amuse: That would have been my first stop except it's a little outta the way from where I'm living now. That being Germany I've got a friend coming over from the US in March and was going to ship the stuff to him and have him bring it over for me rather than paying an exorbitant (spell check ) amount for shipping.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:28 PM   #30610
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Originally Posted by Ricky/C View Post
Thanks. So does anyone know if the CRC is good on tarmac???

And which will be better then? I'm only going to be racing tarmac, so no point in buying something that wont work so good
It'll be good on asphalt, the setup will be different from carpet, but the car can get around fine. I loaned my buddy a knife some years ago when he went to run TC at the asphalt nationals. He didn't have a great weekend with his TC, but he did TQ and finished second in 1/12 with the knife.
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:35 PM   #30611
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ya, i saw your location and thought that would be an easier place to get it from. so when will you be back in town? maybe we can go to fastcats together.

Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
amuse: That would have been my first stop except it's a little outta the way from where I'm living now. That being Germany I've got a friend coming over from the US in March and was going to ship the stuff to him and have him bring it over for me rather than paying an exorbitant (spell check ) amount for shipping.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:27 PM   #30612
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Hey gang,
Just want to announce that I have an updated version of the MS3 ready to go. It's still a conversion kit of sorts, but it now comes with all proprietary parts for a brushless balanced rear pod. I have sampled various manufacturers parts for an unbelievably great t-bar car to drive. This car is already taking the northwest by storm. It's already captured the NWIC Series by round 4, with MS3's filling in the remaining podium spots. The last race in Kennewick, Wa, MS3's took TQ and the top 5 spots!

The new rear pod has been the latest focus for the car. I wanted a pod that was balanced first, then easy to get the motor in & out, then be reasonable to solder up without taking anything apart. I feel that I met all of those challenges. Actually you need to be careful not to drop the motor on the floor! I choose to use two CRC motor plates from the GenX to create a symmetrical rectangular pod. Two reasons for that: the t-bar flex influence to the pod is identical at both sides & if you had a bad crash and did manage to bend a motor plate, you could swap sides to finish your day up without going home early.

I have two different style of t-bars that can be used with the new pod. You can use a standard Associated style t-bar and a CEFX style shorter t-bar. I was lucky enough to get Josh to cut out a big batch of these short t-bars in between his busy schedule. Each t-bar performs slightly different then the other. Often, one may hold lower lap times in the 7th minute based on carpet conditions. Having the option to go between the two bars has been a real plus.

Lately, I have really fallen in love with the CRC Pro-strut front end. Besides being versatile, it's very accurately molded. The MS3 will also take the Associated Dynamic front end with the IRS lower arms. The instructions call out all the little "mod" tricks to make the front end perfect.

The kit contains: the molded carbon tubbed chassis, rear chassis brace, t-bar, all the carbon fiber rear pod parts, bumper, blue hardware, stickers, instructions, and set up sheets.

It may seem late in the season to pick up another ride, but if you are looking for something fun, different and want to turn a few heads (and some fast laps) this is a must look. The website does not have the new pictures or info up yet, so here's few to get you by.

Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-p1010051_2.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010053_2.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010056_2.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010064.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010017_3.jpg  

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Old 02-05-2009, 11:53 PM   #30613
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Originally Posted by amuse View Post
ya, i saw your location and thought that would be an easier place to get it from. so when will you be back in town? maybe we can go to fastcats together.
I'm going to be back in May but I don't think I'll be dragging my gear back. I'm coming back mainly for basketball so I'm not sure how much free time I'll have. I do have my B4 and that stuff at home though, maybe if they get the offroad track finished up....
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:21 AM   #30614
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Default MS3

I'll vouch for Slapmasters new kit, Just got mine and the quality is awesome!
Can't wait to get mine together. Anyone lookin for an 12R5?
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:25 AM   #30615
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Damn fine looking kit there Brian!
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