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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-03-2009, 05:59 AM   #30556
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Hig guys I want to get myself a 1/12th chassis. I can get a associated RC12L4 at a decent price...

Is it worth buying this? Will it perform up-to-par with the new RC12R5 or similar 1/12th chassis? I'll be running it in 1/12t Mods

Please help
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Old 02-03-2009, 06:19 AM   #30557
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Is this an oval-only mod or does this help in the twisties also? I think I read something about a decrease in camber gain, what else does this do? Thanks!

AND...
It can be useful for road racers as well as oval. Oval guys tend to do it only on the left front arm... road guys obviously would do both sides. If the car feels too aggressive on the steering it's one way to calm the front end down.

As far as diffs go, I like the CRC lightened rings and ceramic or carbide balls. I don't have too many tricks, but I do like this one... if your diff is from Associated or CRC, it will have a belleville cone washer included... if your diff is from anyone else it won't. What I like to do is either add two more cone washeres to an Associated or CRC diff, or add three to a diff with no cone washer. I arrange them so the first cone washer goes in with the big side against the spacer (cone pointinig out) then the second cone pointing in, then the third cone pointing out again.

Like this: spacer )() nut

This arrangement of cone washers gives a softer springiness than one by itself, and gives you a little more latitude on the diff nut adjustment.l With one or no cone washers, I find there's a VERY narrow "sweet spot" between too loose and too tight.

Another way I've gotten that wider adjustment sweet spot was to put two thrust races (the outer washers of a thrust bearing assembly) on, but with an o-ring between them instead of balls. The o-ring acted like a spring and really gave a broad adjustment range. Also seemed that this method kept the outer bearing in the right side hub healthy a LOT longer.
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:19 AM   #30558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky/C View Post
Hig guys I want to get myself a 1/12th chassis. I can get a associated RC12L4 at a decent price...

Is it worth buying this? Will it perform up-to-par with the new RC12R5 or similar 1/12th chassis? I'll be running it in 1/12t Mods

Please help
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:50 AM   #30559
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Ricky/C, the car will be fine running mod. If you plan on running LiPo later , the car might be alittle more fificult to setup for LiPo unlike the 12r5. Both are good cars. And as far as the 12l4, I am still running it. You can get other manufacturers chassis to replace the 12l4's that will work in its place inase you damage it. If that is also all your budget will allow then it is fine to start off with. Happy racing
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:56 AM   #30560
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
those aluminum spacers look alot like the ones that come with some of the dubro ball ends. you might be able to find some at a well stocked airplane shop like hobby hangar. I've got a couple in my box, but just not 4 that match. CRC must sell them too since I've got 3 red ones.
vafactor - Are the Dubro spacers concave so the caster block will fit into them?

That's funny you mention Hobby Hangar. I've been going there lately to buy stuff since it's about 10 mins from where I work. The prices are really competitive to online prices. I'll have to stop by this week and see if they have some.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:22 AM   #30561
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
vafactor - Are the Dubro spacers concave so the caster block will fit into them?

That's funny you mention Hobby Hangar. I've been going there lately to buy stuff since it's about 10 mins from where I work. The prices are really competitive to online prices. I'll have to stop by this week and see if they have some.
I haven't been to Hobby Hanger in years. I haven't heard anyone talk about them in a long time.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:35 AM   #30562
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Is this an oval-only mod or does this help in the twisties also? I think I read something about a decrease in camber gain, what else does this do? Thanks!

AND...
Like Trips said, I've always felt the decrease in camber gain smoothed the car out making it less twitchy.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:59 AM   #30563
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How much of a difference do matched MiMh pack do over standard packs for overall speed?

I am asking because I have a good motor (team scream 19T) and a Tekin G11 ECS. running the same rollout as the fastest guys but I just cannot putt the same speeds. I find they always pass me on throttle up out of corners. Down the straight we are pretty close but I keep on noticing that they have way more torque.

What si the best way to get to the same level in power and speed. The only diferences I see is the batteries. I run custom made packs froma a good website and they run self made matched packs


any help would be appreciated
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:37 AM   #30564
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
How much of a difference do matched MiMh pack do over standard packs for overall speed?

I am asking because I have a good motor (team scream 19T) and a Tekin G11 ECS. running the same rollout as the fastest guys but I just cannot putt the same speeds. I find they always pass me on throttle up out of corners. Down the straight we are pretty close but I keep on noticing that they have way more torque.

What si the best way to get to the same level in power and speed. The only diferences I see is the batteries. I run custom made packs froma a good website and they run self made matched packs


any help would be appreciated
More than likely it's setup. You're probably losing more speed in the corners than they are. If your car is set up where it's very comfortable to drive, you probably have some push in the car, and that will slow you down. If you are very consistent with your lap times, it's time to put more steering in your car. It may seem twitchy at first and hard to drive, but it will be faster.
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:01 AM   #30565
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ok well that sounds good. now how do I add steering? I am running Jaco magenta's all the way around and some people are running that setup other s are running White rear's with purple fronts.

I really donlt know much about tire selection to know what helps and what hurts. Also I have red rear springs and stock front sprints for the GenX front end (on my 3.2R)
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:17 AM   #30566
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I'm currently running Jaco Yellow rears and Lilac fronts, but I'm looking to free the back end up some, should I go to a Grey rear? Or something else? The rear end just feels really locked in.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:38 AM   #30567
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
ok well that sounds good. now how do I add steering? I am running Jaco magenta's all the way around and some people are running that setup other s are running White rear's with purple fronts.

I really donlt know much about tire selection to know what helps and what hurts. Also I have red rear springs and stock front sprints for the GenX front end (on my 3.2R)
Your setup should have way more steering then the other cars with those tires and springs. Gotta realize, if those guys have been racing for a long time and you are just starting out, they will probably still beat you even if you have twice the power they do. Right now I would say don't worry about where you place. Sit down with a few of the racers there and learn setup from them, while on the track work on learning a good line. Start with trying to stay in the center of the track without crashing. Once you have that down start tightening up the line a little bit. Learning setup takes time and effort. But it is worth it to do so. I've been doing this for over 15 years now and I'm still learning stuff all the time.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:51 AM   #30568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
ok well that sounds good. now how do I add steering? I am running Jaco magenta's all the way around and some people are running that setup other s are running White rear's with purple fronts.

I really donlt know much about tire selection to know what helps and what hurts. Also I have red rear springs and stock front sprints for the GenX front end (on my 3.2R)
When you say you have stock front springs for the GenX front end on your 3.2#, do you have an actual GenX prostrut front end on the car, or are you using those GenX springs on an associated based front end?

Quote:
Originally Posted by brians11 View Post
I'm currently running Jaco Yellow rears and Lilac fronts, but I'm looking to free the back end up some, should I go to a Grey rear? Or something else? The rear end just feels really locked in.
Greys should free up the rear a bit... the yellows are between greys and whites as I understand it... what's the rest of your setup?
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:56 AM   #30569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
Greys should free up the rear a bit... the yellows are between greys and whites as I understand it... what's the rest of your setup?
12r5
BMI 20 front springs
red center spring, 30wt oil
gold side springs, 40wt oil
1.5 camber
3.25 caster
3.5mm ride
speed 12 body
13.5 single cell lipo

I think its mostly due to going to lipo that i lost some rotation in the middle of the turn and need to give up some rear side bite. Just wanted to make sure Grey's are the way to go
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:21 PM   #30570
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I've heard that the BMI 20 front springs feel more like an Associated 22, and the BMI 18's are more like the Associated 20 which is the typical front spring for 1/12. I haven't run the BMI springs, so I can't confirm it, but you might try the BMI 18's as another way to get more rotation in the corner...
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