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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-27-2009, 03:43 AM   #30466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mracer View Post
Where can information be found on setting up a 1/12th scale? I am fairly new to racing these cars and would like to learn more about setup and how it effects these cars. I know a lot of it will be learned at the track, but I would at least like to understand the theory before I get there. I am running a CRC T-plate car, if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.
You might want to try http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=65 as well. The T-Fource is based on the L4 so most of the stuff in here will apply also. Not so much of why, but plenty of what!

Trev
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:49 AM   #30467
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I can only assume that you are an Internet troll, or that you will be the next World Champion. I wish I was so certain about everything, especially in the face of the most experienced people telling you that it's not correct. Oh well, at least there are some posts on here I don't need to read any more....
I read posts almost daily from guys that say they can feel a diffrents in the balanced and unbalanced pods. And I get called a troll. Just because you cant feel a diffrents doesnt mean nobody can.

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Old 01-27-2009, 04:50 AM   #30468
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Yes, the marketing fluff part is your opinion. I'm with you 100% on all the other stuff, but we've done a lot of testing with the OD12 both ways and the weight centered motor box improves the handling of the car. Not night and day, barely even noticable by a hack like me, but definately better
Look slowerone, Another troll !!! Or is he the next world champ?

DK
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:55 AM   #30469
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Also notice he wasn't saying that the small amt. of weight involved was making his car "hook" or any other such thing that you stated your half-ounce cured. In fact he indicated the difference wasn't noticeable to "a hack" like him. And KNOW this...he's by no means a hack.

And CERTAINLY no troll. The OD12 he's referring to...that's the car he designed, manufactures and sells. If Michael says something, I listen...and listen closely. I may joke, but I take what he says seriously.
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:11 PM   #30470
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I never stated that the .5 oz stop the hook. The complete redoing of the electronic's did. I just didnt want to take the chance that the pod being off a little would cancel all the work I just did. So I put it on there. Plus I stated I was gonna pull the weight to see if I could feel it.

And no, I wasnt calling od a hack. The guys builts some sick cars !!! Its just that I say I can feel the chassis out of balance and get called a troll but other guys say the same thing and nothing.

Either way Im done with this.

Peace
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:44 PM   #30471
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I never stated that the .5 oz stop the hook. The complete redoing of the electronic's did. I just didnt want to take the chance that the pod being off a little would cancel all the work I just did. So I put it on there. Plus I stated I was gonna pull the weight to see if I could feel it.

And no, I wasnt calling od a hack. The guys builts some sick cars !!! Its just that I say I can feel the chassis out of balance and get called a troll but other guys say the same thing and nothing.

Either way Im done with this.

Peace
DK
After this, I'm done too. What Scottrix and OD are saying is that this is not a chassis in the accepted sense of the word. This car has a flexible joint in the middle, so much of the accepted wisdom from other classes doesn't work.

The chassis has a flexible joint in the middle, so what happens to weight distribution in the rear cannot affect the front, as the joint will simply move as it needs to. Secondly, the rear is a box, so if the weight is slightly one way or the other, it won't make any difference to the way the car behaves - the weight has not option but to distribute itself even across the two rear wheels.

What happens in the front (the pan part) of the chassis will affect the weight that is distributed on the front wheels, because they are all connected together. Uneven weight distribution here will give you handling problems. Adjusting the tweak is simply playing with the weight distribution across the front wheels.

From a static viewpoint, half and ounce here or there is nothing anyone could feel. What can be felt is when all this starts moving, and the car is influenced by the weight transfer of the cells, and the torque reaction of the motor. So, two people who we all look to says it makes no difference - that's my guideline.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:05 PM   #30472
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You can also use a silver sharpie to get some contrast on the numbers. I did this but did not do all of them and cannot find the sharpie!!!!


-----Mitch
Yea, sorry about that.. I'll get that back to ya...
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:50 PM   #30473
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I never stated that the .5 oz stop the hook. The complete redoing of the electronic's did. I just didnt want to take the chance that the pod being off a little would cancel all the work I just did. So I put it on there. Plus I stated I was gonna pull the weight to see if I could feel it.

And no, I wasnt calling od a hack. The guys builts some sick cars !!! Its just that I say I can feel the chassis out of balance and get called a troll but other guys say the same thing and nothing.

Either way Im done with this.

Peace
DK
All things being equal, if the car is tweaked correctly, relatively balanced, not dragging, and sauces correctly applied, about the only thing that can make a car do something as irritating as a J-hook, is a bad tire sidewall. And that's if the car has the traction to push the other direction, which means it's capable of developing traction in at least one direction. If hooks both directions that's another issue.

Also, Scottrik, you assumed the lead was just extra weight on the car with no value... What if he was under weight? If he's brushless, he's likley not under 790 grams. Could potentially be under 865, and require weight.

Also, you said,


"...You are confusing tweak with balance.

Try this little experiment. Take your car, put it on a tweak station, and get it properly set to zero tweak. Now take an entire strip of lead weight. Hell, grab TWO strips. Lay them on the rear pod over the motor. If you don't have binding in your pivot, links, etc, there should be no change in the position of the bubble on your tweak station. Now put the lead strips all over on one side of the pod. Should be the same result (unless there is enough weight being added to compress the rear tire....
"

Unless you described that wrong or are putting the front tires on the bubble side of tweak station, that statement is not accurate.
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Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 01-27-2009 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:56 PM   #30474
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Unless you described that wrong or are putting the front tires on the bubble side of tweak station, that statement is not accurate.
When DON'T you put the front tires on the "bubble side" of the tweak station? That is definitely what my intent was.

Then again I never use tweak stations anymore, so my mad skilz might be a bit rusty in that regard
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:02 PM   #30475
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A race car is a package. Everything you do is done to enhance the package, as a whole. Just a few "not noticeable things" ends up with improvement to the package that might not yield an immediately tangible result. Unless you're running a car with less than a .4 or less consistency, all the time, you're not going to notice the things that make the car run at a .35 consistency. That number would be based on the entire run, with no mulligans . And those consistency numbers should relate to the pack fading, and your fastest lap coming in the first 8 laps.

Minor improvements, almost undetectable to 95% of drivers, .05 faster over 8.8 seconds, with a MUCH large chance of NOT getting corner marshaled, due to increased consistency.

8.5 lap, with a .40 error factor yields a 54/480.60
8.5 lap, with a .35 error factor yields a 55/486.75

Point is, a balanced pod is part of the package. just like a good diff, good ride height, etc. you want to get as many pieces of your puzzle, or "package" as close as you can to what is ideal... for you. All things are important to look at.

AND, there's always a different way to solve a problem. that dude felt adding lead to the drivers side of the pod balanced it out for him. If that's the case (for him), the other way to do that with almost no weight penalty is to get the motor in the pod and slide a motor spacer in between the motor and the pod plate on the pinion side, slides the motor about a 1/10th.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:05 PM   #30476
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Oh yeah!! I'M consistent alright...you've seen me drive.

Consistently at about a .93 consistency factor on the BobScale
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:10 PM   #30477
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Oh yeah!! I'M consistent alright...you've seen me drive.

Consistently at about a .93 consistency factor on the BobScale
Well, you're less than 1.00 So that's good.

Go balance your pod and get back to work ya slacker...
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:18 PM   #30478
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Yeah...I take my "victories" where I can find 'em!!

And get back to work???!!! I already saved the Boeing Co. from imminent melt-down by refreshing senile engineers' (my dad and his co-workers) memories re: Napierian Logarithms for a problem they're working on. I'm taking the afternoon off!
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:48 PM   #30479
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Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
A race car is a package. Everything you do is done to enhance the package, as a whole. Just a few "not noticeable things" ends up with improvement to the package that might not yield an immediately tangible result. Unless you're running a car with less than a .4 or less consistency, all the time, you're not going to notice the things that make the car run at a .35 consistency. That number would be based on the entire run, with no mulligans . And those consistency numbers should relate to the pack fading, and your fastest lap coming in the first 8 laps.

Minor improvements, almost undetectable to 95% of drivers, .05 faster over 8.8 seconds, with a MUCH large chance of NOT getting corner marshaled, due to increased consistency.

8.5 lap, with a .40 error factor yields a 54/480.60
8.5 lap, with a .35 error factor yields a 55/486.75

Point is, a balanced pod is part of the package. just like a good diff, good ride height, etc. you want to get as many pieces of your puzzle, or "package" as close as you can to what is ideal... for you. All things are important to look at.

AND, there's always a different way to solve a problem. that dude felt adding lead to the drivers side of the pod balanced it out for him. If that's the case (for him), the other way to do that with almost no weight penalty is to get the motor in the pod and slide a motor spacer in between the motor and the pod plate on the pinion side, slides the motor about a 1/10th.
"mulligans"

Man, you're old
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:29 PM   #30480
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I'm in need of an axle for my black widow. Is the IRS2111 here for the switchblade the same one? Or do I need to use the assoc style large d-ring? Thanks.
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