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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-26-2009, 09:11 PM   #30451
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The "weight centering" is marketing fluff. imho, of course,
Yes, the marketing fluff part is your opinion. I'm with you 100% on all the other stuff, but we've done a lot of testing with the OD12 both ways and the weight centered motor box improves the handling of the car. Not night and day, barely even noticable by a hack like me, but definately better

If you can see your way clear to change your opinion on this then I can go ahead and vote for you
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:38 PM   #30452
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Why were'nt you running for President a few months ago? I would have voted for you in heart beat! I was trying to say the same thing to our new guest, but I guess I was beating around the bush, so to speak and trying to be politicaly correct. Well said! Sometimes people to to be hit up side the head with a wiffle ball bat to get their attention.
Yeah, I pretty much rock.

And I'm modest too...

Thanks Steve.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:57 PM   #30453
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My good idea for the year:

I usually have a good idea every year, looks like it came early in '09. Oh well, I guess I can go back to drinkin and late night cable now that the idea has been birthed. Come on, 2010...

Okay, seriously... I LOVE the IRS rear ride height/bearing holders... BUT I can't see the numbers on them for ANYTHING without a jeweler's loupe, which I don't carry in the pit box. SO, I tend to cut my tires to 1.75" (rear) and at thast size my ride height is a loose 4mm, maybe a tight 4.5. I run the car without changing the holders until the rear gets down to 3mm, then chuck the tires. Just cause it's such a pain to find the matching pair of holders at the track. (When your eyeballs are 50 you'll know what I mean.)

So I'm at CVS the other day, and I see these little 7-day pill holders for 99 cents each. Go to CVS now and buy three of them. I'll wait........

Okay, you're back? Take one pill holder and cut one little box off the end with lexan scissors. Use a file or sandpaper to clean the rough edge from the scissors, then sho goo it to the end of one of the others. Let it dry. now you have an eight compartment holder for your eight sets of ride height/bearing holders. The right set is always easy to grab in a second.

Why did I tell you to buy three of them? Cut the other end off the one that has only six on it now, and glue it to the OTHER full one, when that one's dry, give it to your best racing buddy.

In all likelihood, I'm the last guy on earth to have this idea, but just in case I'm the second to last, I hope the last guy reads it here... Now I'll always be at the right height, not just for a couple of heats during the tire's life cycle...

A pic is worth a thousand words:
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:08 PM   #30454
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A pic is worth a thousand words:
Cripes I've been doing this for a thousand years... why haven't I been doing that? 300 adjusters in a drawer...dig..dig...dig...dig..
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:25 PM   #30455
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Yes, the marketing fluff part is your opinion. I'm with you 100% on all the other stuff, but we've done a lot of testing with the OD12 both ways and the weight centered motor box improves the handling of the car. Not night and day, barely even noticable by a hack like me, but definately better

If you can see your way clear to change your opinion on this then I can go ahead and vote for you
Alright...IF I agree that there MAY be a difference (your mileage may vary), but that it would be OK to balance the pod separately from the main chassis plate, can I count on your vote?

Scottrik 2016!!
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:34 PM   #30456
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My good idea for the year:
From one almost fifty year old to a fifty year old...I blurily second your motion. Great solution, but it only works if:

a) you only have one car and one set of adjusters, or, if you have more than one of each,

b) you keep excellent records of what is in which car.

Otherwise you still need to be able to read those darn things at some point or another. And you are 100% correct...those damn things are a pita to read.

I'm usually shuffling around between three or four different cars and have four sets of the adjusters in my box. Now my box has eight little compartments across the front of the tray, so I know which size is in the dealeo, but I have to read the adjusters coming out of the car. For that I use my handy-dandy lighted magnifying glass I picked up at Harbor Freight (actually I have two, one in my race kit, the other right here next to me at my desk).

Another thing I've found helpful on these (and other things) is to use a modeler's "dry brush" technique with some White-Out which does a pretty good job highlighting the numbers against the black. If your hands are getting unsteady just paint around the number and after the WO dries scrape backwards with an Exacto blade across the rased numbers which makes them show up black against a white background. We're after contrast here.

What REALLY pisses me off about this emerging near-sightedness? I can count the damn leaves on a tree a block away, but I can't read this message without my 275 power reading glasses...three pairs for $20 from Costco!!
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:46 PM   #30457
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Default ride height adjusters

You can also use a silver sharpie to get some contrast on the numbers. I did this but did not do all of them and cannot find the sharpie!!!!


-----Mitch
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:56 PM   #30458
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From one almost fifty year old to a fifty year old...I blurily second your motion. Great solution, but it only works if:

a) you only have one car and one set of adjusters, or, if you have more than one of each,

b) you keep excellent records of what is in which car.

Otherwise you still need to be able to read those darn things at some point or another. And you are 100% correct...those damn things are a pita to read.
I'm pretty much case A... I only have one car in running condition at any one time. I guess you COULD make a box like this for eachcar, but at some point it's gonna get cumbersome... The whiteout sounds like a good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
What REALLY pisses me off about this emerging near-sightedness? I can count the damn leaves on a tree a block away, but I can't read this message without my 275 power reading glasses...three pairs for $20 from Costco!!
I know what you mean... I used to wear glasses on the drivers stand for distance, now I only need them in the pits for close up work...
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:16 PM   #30459
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Where can information be found on setting up a 1/12th scale? I am fairly new to racing these cars and would like to learn more about setup and how it effects these cars. I know a lot of it will be learned at the track, but I would at least like to understand the theory before I get there. I am running a CRC T-plate car, if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:27 PM   #30460
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Give this link a try although it is not for CRC car but the general ideal can be apply to most 12th scale cars

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=5057
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:27 PM   #30461
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Where can information be found on setting up a 1/12th scale? I am fairly new to racing these cars and would like to learn more about setup and how it effects these cars. I know a lot of it will be learned at the track, but I would at least like to understand the theory before I get there. I am running a CRC T-plate car, if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.
Here's a good reference. It favors the link car, but I run a T-Fource also, and it has proven very helpful.

http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:30 PM   #30462
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This question comes up on a regular basis, we usually point to this page:

Richard Chang's 1/12 setup tips

It's VERY useful, and you can download a pdf version of it right fron the page...
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:37 PM   #30463
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Yep, I balanced the car with the motor in. It was tweaked really bad no matter what I did. Then I blanced it with out the motor and wasnt gonna take a chance on the rear pod being off and throwing the tweak out, so I put the lead on there. My car has perfect tweak now. And no I havent taken the lead off to see if it still holds tweak.

As far as the weight being far back its a good thing with the lipo. No wight back there to get the car to rotate off throttle. Thats allso why I mounted my servo behind the linkage. Have I tried it with the servo in the same place as 4 cell? No, the car is perfect and hate to mess it up.


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I can only assume that you are an Internet troll, or that you will be the next World Champion. I wish I was so certain about everything, especially in the face of the most experienced people telling you that it's not correct. Oh well, at least there are some posts on here I don't need to read any more....
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:38 PM   #30464
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Thanks a ton guys! I can't wait to dive into it.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:37 AM   #30465
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While I agree that our new young friend will be able to get parts for his 12L4 for MANY years to come, this comparison with the 12R5 is absolutely incorrect. You CANNOT install the 12R5 front end onto a car that has any of the previous Associated (or new CRC) front ends. The lower mount screw spacing is longer and it takes smaller head dia/different countersink/metric screws for mounting. I bought, I compared, I sold it on...I know.



For you as a beginner I make TWO observations that I SINCERELY hope you pay attention to:

1) if you're just starting out in 1/12 and think you're going to run mod you are in for a WORLD of pain. The previous comments about plentiful parts supply will be in immenent danger as you buy up all existing stocks to keep your mod car on the track. Do yourself a HUGE favor...don't do anything "stronger" than a 27T brushed motor. If you REALLY want to learn 1/12 the best I've seen is starting with a Silver Can Mabuchi or Johnson. Frees the car up enormously, maintenance-free, and allows you to focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

2) DON'T head out into the wilderness trying new/different/unproven combinations. If you start dicking around with 1/18 motors, etc, you're going to be spending all your time paying attention to stuff that absolutely will not be helping you as a racer. KEEP IT SIMPLE, use what works, and focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

I know I sound like a broken record, but the BST fora here and e-Bay are CHOCK full of cars being sold by folks who jumped in over their heads...



Darn skippy it's already happening. I went racing in two different states/groups than I normally race with in the couple weeks leading up to Christmas. Especially at the one location everybody was spending inordinate amounts of time with heads bent together "...whisper whisper whisper...new super secret firmware from Tekin...whisper whisper whisper...adjust timing to XX...whisper whisper whisper...new XYZ motor SMOKES the existing motors, going to have to sell the half-dozen motors I've already got...whisper whisper whisper". I kid you not. Remember how brushless was going to make everybody equal on horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to mean zero time spent in search of horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to cost SO much less? What a load of crap. There is (nor will there be) no equality...just how we make the adjustments will change (more on that to follow). The guys I was watching are spending EVERY bit as much time in search of horsepower. Now instead of lathes and dynos, though, it's laptops, USB cables and the internet. And cost less......now instead of several $30 motors it's several $80 motors. AND A LAPTOP!!

I shake my head in wonder.



In which case you're carrying a half ounce more weight to no performance advantage. If it makes you feel good about things, great, but dont' kid yourself that you've affected handling in any measureable fashion (at least positively...what you HAVE done is place weight at a much longer moment of inertia and the dangers inherent therein). The rear of the car sits on a solid axle. Any imbalance (within reason, of course, but allowing far more than your half ounce) is moot. The advantage to brushless pods is the enhanced serviceability getting the motors in and out more easily. The "weight centering" is marketing fluff. imho, of course, but when I balance a chassis I do so without the rear pod even attached.
I agree Scottrik u know what your talkin bout!
i rocked up at my local track to see the latest brushless setups chassis in
1/12 with (whisper whisper whisper shhh whisper)going on
Im sitting there with my purple D2 brushed motor and my 23 year old
Mugen 1/12
Qualifying starts and i kicked ass all over the track no one could catch me
i actually heard one racer yell out SOMEONE CATCH THAT BLOODY MUGEN
Come the finals i kicked ass again and won the day
The point im making is i learnt to drive 1/12 more than 20 years ago with a stock motor and determination of a bucking bull to win
I proved it to my self and to others on the weekend it doesnt matter
what car u got its a combination of skill , racecraft and persistence.
I dont think i crashed once all night thanks to years and years of practice.
Practice makes perfect not the latest lipo this and brushless that.
Like u said Scottrik no wonder there is all this stuff on ebay hardly used,
people have to put in the hard yards to bloody win thats what i did!
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