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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-26-2009, 08:48 AM   #30436
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Originally Posted by Impulse_racer View Post
What about the drivers who drive T-bar cars? There is a very large group of drivers that own T-bar cars as well as two new T-bar cars just being introduced that have become very popular. Sure the lipo pack will drop in any link car or BMI but in T-bar cars the chassis is basically cut in half by the T-bar. When the manufacturers come out with a format to address this issue then your arguments for lipo could carry the weight of ALL of 1/12 scale. Not alienate a large group of racers. R.O.A.R. takes into account ALL members of a class as well as the availability/use of new technologies to those members before making sweeping changes to a class.
Hey couldn't they make the battery case with a gap underneath so that the T-bar could float underneath the battery? It would be kind of like a bridge.

The pictures below represent the setup looking at the car from the front or the rear.

Or, since many T-bar cars battery slots are not the same, we could make plastic fillers that would fill the battery slots on each side so that the one cell could bridge across the T-bar. The tops of the plastic block fillers could even lock into the 1C lipo.

The serpent and the FF may have problems with this too being that their tweak screws sit above the T-bar. It would help some cars thou.
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1/12 forum-lipo.jpg   1/12 forum-lipo1.jpg  
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:17 AM   #30437
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Help everyone .. I am very puzzled by my Gen X setup.

I have been oversteering at mid-corner with white spring and 50kwt oil. When I changed the springs to much harder (two color up), the rear behaved much better.

I thought I should change to softer springs when car is oversteering at rear, but this seems to be opposite. How can this be?

I kept everything the same, tires, middle suspension ...

wierd! Anybody know why?

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Old 01-26-2009, 09:21 AM   #30438
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
If its not broke right?
As one of the guys that remembers how 12th was I can say that 12th is broke. 1 or 2 heats at a club race today is a far cry from 6 or 7 heats we used to get back in the day. Even the smaller tracks were getting 4 to 5 heats of 12th.

LiPo may or may not be the savior that some are proclaiming. The latest round cells are fairly stable and a couple of packs will last an entire season of club racing. LiPo is pretty convenient and a little slower given the same motor. Good or bad, it's different.

When was the last time you guys saw new "young" racers start running onroad? Go to any onroad track around Michigan and you'll see maybe 3 or 4 new racers (for the entire state). Go to a dirt track and you'll see a full heat of novice and tons of new racers at the track. The local freezing cold indoor track is getting well over 100 racers per race. What do we get for onroad let alone 12th.

RC always has an up and down between onroad and offroad but it's pretty bad this time. Dont' ask me how to fix it but I will say that when new racers can't even drive the cars it's a problem. And it's not cost, there are plenty of little kids at the dirt track with equipment that is way more expensive than a 12th set-up.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:42 AM   #30439
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Nearly every car out there uses the AE front end. It is the same as a 12R5.
While I agree that our new young friend will be able to get parts for his 12L4 for MANY years to come, this comparison with the 12R5 is absolutely incorrect. You CANNOT install the 12R5 front end onto a car that has any of the previous Associated (or new CRC) front ends. The lower mount screw spacing is longer and it takes smaller head dia/different countersink/metric screws for mounting. I bought, I compared, I sold it on...I know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
OK my track runs Mod 4 cell any motor! i think and i just started Racing 1/12 so im a rookie in 1/12! but i race 1.18 but thats a diff story but idk any thing about these things BTW is it smart to put in a 1/18 scale motor in? cuz i read a thread about it!
For you as a beginner I make TWO observations that I SINCERELY hope you pay attention to:

1) if you're just starting out in 1/12 and think you're going to run mod you are in for a WORLD of pain. The previous comments about plentiful parts supply will be in immenent danger as you buy up all existing stocks to keep your mod car on the track. Do yourself a HUGE favor...don't do anything "stronger" than a 27T brushed motor. If you REALLY want to learn 1/12 the best I've seen is starting with a Silver Can Mabuchi or Johnson. Frees the car up enormously, maintenance-free, and allows you to focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

2) DON'T head out into the wilderness trying new/different/unproven combinations. If you start dicking around with 1/18 motors, etc, you're going to be spending all your time paying attention to stuff that absolutely will not be helping you as a racer. KEEP IT SIMPLE, use what works, and focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

I know I sound like a broken record, but the BST fora here and e-Bay are CHOCK full of cars being sold by folks who jumped in over their heads...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Once we get the hang of tuning the BL motors, we will be back to the 'secrets' of the past, and some people having better motors. It's already starting to happen...
Darn skippy it's already happening. I went racing in two different states/groups than I normally race with in the couple weeks leading up to Christmas. Especially at the one location everybody was spending inordinate amounts of time with heads bent together "...whisper whisper whisper...new super secret firmware from Tekin...whisper whisper whisper...adjust timing to XX...whisper whisper whisper...new XYZ motor SMOKES the existing motors, going to have to sell the half-dozen motors I've already got...whisper whisper whisper". I kid you not. Remember how brushless was going to make everybody equal on horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to mean zero time spent in search of horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to cost SO much less? What a load of crap. There is (nor will there be) no equality...just how we make the adjustments will change (more on that to follow). The guys I was watching are spending EVERY bit as much time in search of horsepower. Now instead of lathes and dynos, though, it's laptops, USB cables and the internet. And cost less......now instead of several $30 motors it's several $80 motors. AND A LAPTOP!!

I shake my head in wonder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I have a .5 oz of lead on my pod to balance the brushless motor in the brushed pod.
In which case you're carrying a half ounce more weight to no performance advantage. If it makes you feel good about things, great, but dont' kid yourself that you've affected handling in any measureable fashion (at least positively...what you HAVE done is place weight at a much longer moment of inertia and the dangers inherent therein). The rear of the car sits on a solid axle. Any imbalance (within reason, of course, but allowing far more than your half ounce) is moot. The advantage to brushless pods is the enhanced serviceability getting the motors in and out more easily. The "weight centering" is marketing fluff. imho, of course, but when I balance a chassis I do so without the rear pod even attached.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:58 AM   #30440
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
Hey couldn't they make the battery case with a gap underneath so that the T-bar could float underneath the battery? It would be kind of like a bridge.

The pictures below represent the setup looking at the car from the front or the rear.

Or, since many T-bar cars battery slots are not the same, we could make plastic fillers that would fill the battery slots on each side so that the one cell could bridge across the T-bar. The tops of the plastic block fillers could even lock into the 1C lipo.

The serpent and the FF may have problems with this too being that their tweak screws sit above the T-bar. It would help some cars thou.
The clearance for the shock would need to be taken into effect as well. There isn't much room between the shock and the T-bar in most cars. You could probably forget running the battery forward in T-bar cars with a LiPo if they were mounted across the car.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:29 AM   #30441
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
While I agree that our new young friend will be able to get parts for his 12L4 for MANY years to come, this comparison with the 12R5 is absolutely incorrect. You CANNOT install the 12R5 front end onto a car that has any of the previous Associated (or new CRC) front ends. The lower mount screw spacing is longer and it takes smaller head dia/different countersink/metric screws for mounting. I bought, I compared, I sold it on...I know.
Oops, forgot they changed it. No biggy, parts will still be plentiful.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:34 AM   #30442
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In which case you're carrying a half ounce more weight to no performance advantage. If it makes you feel good about things, great, but dont' kid yourself that you've affected handling in any measureable fashion (at least positively...what you HAVE done is place weight at a much longer moment of inertia and the dangers inherent therein). The rear of the car sits on a solid axle. Any imbalance (within reason, of course, but allowing far more than your half ounce) is moot. The advantage to brushless pods is the enhanced serviceability getting the motors in and out more easily. The "weight centering" is marketing fluff. imho, of course, but when I balance a chassis I do so without the rear pod even attached.
Yep, I balanced the car with the motor in. It was tweaked really bad no matter what I did. Then I blanced it with out the motor and wasnt gonna take a chance on the rear pod being off and throwing the tweak out, so I put the lead on there. My car has perfect tweak now. And no I havent taken the lead off to see if it still holds tweak.

As far as the weight being far back its a good thing with the lipo. No wight back there to get the car to rotate off throttle. Thats allso why I mounted my servo behind the linkage. Have I tried it with the servo in the same place as 4 cell? No, the car is perfect and hate to mess it up.


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Old 01-26-2009, 10:40 AM   #30443
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Yep, I balanced the car with the motor in. It was tweaked really bad no matter what I did. Then I blanced it with out the motor and wasnt gonna take a chance on the rear pod being off and throwing the tweak out, so I put the lead on there. My car has perfect tweak now. And no I havent taken the lead off to see if it still holds tweak.
You are confusing tweak with balance.

Try this little experiment. Take your car, put it on a tweak station, and get it properly set to zero tweak. Now take an entire strip of lead weight. Hell, grab TWO strips. Lay them on the rear pod over the motor. If you don't have binding in your pivot, links, etc, there should be no change in the position of the bubble on your tweak station. Now put the lead strips all over on one side of the pod. Should be the same result (unless there is enough weight being added to compress the rear tire.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:47 AM   #30444
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
This weekend at our track, we found out it actually makes a difference which way your transponder is facing. A couple guys had their transponder facing down, like in the picture shown, but our loop hangs over the track and the loop was missing laps. When those guys flipped their transponder over to face up, it worked fine and counted all their laps.

Probably not a big concern but, if you're having those problems, that may be something to look at.
No problems here, our loop is under the carpet, but if I ever go to a track with an overhead loop I'll flip the 'sponder just to be safe. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:53 AM   #30445
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Give us your complete setup and what surface your running on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboy View Post
Help everyone .. I am very puzzled by my Gen X setup.

I have been oversteering at mid-corner with white spring and 50kwt oil. When I changed the springs to much harder (two color up), the rear behaved much better.

I thought I should change to softer springs when car is oversteering at rear, but this seems to be opposite. How can this be?

I kept everything the same, tires, middle suspension ...

wierd! Anybody know why?

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Old 01-26-2009, 11:03 AM   #30446
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Darn skippy it's already happening. I went racing in two different states/groups than I normally race with in the couple weeks leading up to Christmas. Especially at the one location everybody was spending inordinate amounts of time with heads bent together "...whisper whisper whisper...new super secret firmware from Tekin...whisper whisper whisper...adjust timing to XX...whisper whisper whisper...new XYZ motor SMOKES the existing motors, going to have to sell the half-dozen motors I've already got...whisper whisper whisper". I kid you not. Remember how brushless was going to make everybody equal on horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to mean zero time spent in search of horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to cost SO much less? What a load of crap. There is (nor will there be) no equality...just how we make the adjustments will change (more on that to follow). The guys I was watching are spending EVERY bit as much time in search of horsepower. Now instead of lathes and dynos, though, it's laptops, USB cables and the internet. And cost less......now instead of several $30 motors it's several $80 motors. AND A LAPTOP!!

I shake my head in wonder.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:32 AM   #30447
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Originally Posted by bboy View Post
Help everyone .. I am very puzzled by my Gen X setup.

I have been oversteering at mid-corner with white spring and 50kwt oil. When I changed the springs to much harder (two color up), the rear behaved much better.

I thought I should change to softer springs when car is oversteering at rear, but this seems to be opposite. How can this be?

I kept everything the same, tires, middle suspension ...

wierd! Anybody know why?

50k sounds a lot on the high side for the tubes... try going back to the white springs with 10 or 15k in the tubes.
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:04 PM   #30448
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
You are confusing tweak with balance.

Try this little experiment. Take your car, put it on a tweak station, and get it properly set to zero tweak. Now take an entire strip of lead weight. Hell, grab TWO strips. Lay them on the rear pod over the motor. If you don't have binding in your pivot, links, etc, there should be no change in the position of the bubble on your tweak station. Now put the lead strips all over on one side of the pod. Should be the same result (unless there is enough weight being added to compress the rear tire.
Well, the first time I had the car setup, I thought I had the balance good. The tweak was set and off to the track to test. No matter what I did it would push left and hook right. Even though the tweak was dead on and all tires were the same size. Since I have balanced the chassis with out the motor its been perfect !! Maybe the next time I run I will pop the lead off the pod and see if I can feel anything. I really dont like dead weight soo would love to get rid of it.

After all the work of stipping the car and balancing the chassis I didnt want to take the chance that the pod being off would tweak it, thats why its on there now.

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Old 01-26-2009, 04:12 PM   #30449
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Originally Posted by bboy View Post
Help everyone .. I am very puzzled by my Gen X setup.

I have been oversteering at mid-corner with white spring and 50kwt oil. When I changed the springs to much harder (two color up), the rear behaved much better.

I thought I should change to softer springs when car is oversteering at rear, but this seems to be opposite. How can this be?

I kept everything the same, tires, middle suspension ...

wierd! Anybody know why?

I run the blue spring with 5k or 7k in the tubes. Thats probly why it got better with the harder spring. Its soooo over dampen.

DK
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:01 PM   #30450
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
While I agree that our new young friend will be able to get parts for his 12L4 for MANY years to come, this comparison with the 12R5 is absolutely incorrect. You CANNOT install the 12R5 front end onto a car that has any of the previous Associated (or new CRC) front ends. The lower mount screw spacing is longer and it takes smaller head dia/different countersink/metric screws for mounting. I bought, I compared, I sold it on...I know.



For you as a beginner I make TWO observations that I SINCERELY hope you pay attention to:

1) if you're just starting out in 1/12 and think you're going to run mod you are in for a WORLD of pain. The previous comments about plentiful parts supply will be in immenent danger as you buy up all existing stocks to keep your mod car on the track. Do yourself a HUGE favor...don't do anything "stronger" than a 27T brushed motor. If you REALLY want to learn 1/12 the best I've seen is starting with a Silver Can Mabuchi or Johnson. Frees the car up enormously, maintenance-free, and allows you to focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

2) DON'T head out into the wilderness trying new/different/unproven combinations. If you start dicking around with 1/18 motors, etc, you're going to be spending all your time paying attention to stuff that absolutely will not be helping you as a racer. KEEP IT SIMPLE, use what works, and focus on a) keeping the car between the barriers, and b) really learning setup and what affects these cars.

I know I sound like a broken record, but the BST fora here and e-Bay are CHOCK full of cars being sold by folks who jumped in over their heads...



Darn skippy it's already happening. I went racing in two different states/groups than I normally race with in the couple weeks leading up to Christmas. Especially at the one location everybody was spending inordinate amounts of time with heads bent together "...whisper whisper whisper...new super secret firmware from Tekin...whisper whisper whisper...adjust timing to XX...whisper whisper whisper...new XYZ motor SMOKES the existing motors, going to have to sell the half-dozen motors I've already got...whisper whisper whisper". I kid you not. Remember how brushless was going to make everybody equal on horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to mean zero time spent in search of horsepower? Remember how brushless was going to cost SO much less? What a load of crap. There is (nor will there be) no equality...just how we make the adjustments will change (more on that to follow). The guys I was watching are spending EVERY bit as much time in search of horsepower. Now instead of lathes and dynos, though, it's laptops, USB cables and the internet. And cost less......now instead of several $30 motors it's several $80 motors. AND A LAPTOP!!

I shake my head in wonder.



In which case you're carrying a half ounce more weight to no performance advantage. If it makes you feel good about things, great, but dont' kid yourself that you've affected handling in any measureable fashion (at least positively...what you HAVE done is place weight at a much longer moment of inertia and the dangers inherent therein). The rear of the car sits on a solid axle. Any imbalance (within reason, of course, but allowing far more than your half ounce) is moot. The advantage to brushless pods is the enhanced serviceability getting the motors in and out more easily. The "weight centering" is marketing fluff. imho, of course, but when I balance a chassis I do so without the rear pod even attached.

Why were'nt you running for President a few months ago? I would have voted for you in heart beat! I was trying to say the same thing to our new guest, but I guess I was beating around the bush, so to speak and trying to be politicaly correct. Well said! Sometimes people to to be hit up side the head with a wiffle ball bat to get their attention.
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