R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-25-2009, 06:31 PM   #30421
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedMerchant View Post
Hi Steve,

The Snowbirds runs backwards because of the mix of oval/roadcourse. They don't want to screw up the groove for the oval guys.

Lots of tracks start to run counter clockwise right after Cleveland to get used to it.

It's not that big of a deal.

Take care.-Bruce
Doh! I should have known that but it's been about 10 years since I've run any oval, and that was on banked concrete. Thanks Bruce. Just today I ran accross a bunch of old Speedmerchant decal sheets, and I see you're still not making a t-bar car. Inside joke to those wondering.
SteveL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 07:14 PM   #30422
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,636
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
I have a question! do all 1/12 cars share parts? because they all look the same Lol
No, not all share parts but yes, most do. If you want something completely different get a Corally. If you want something fairly unique but with a few common parts (and wicked fast) get a BMI. If you want a refined version of all the other cars, get a Serpent. If you want the car that is the source of all those common parts get a 12L4.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 07:16 PM   #30423
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Nj
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to TomElEctric!
Default 23

Ye i have the l4 thats why i was asking cuz the car is discontinued and i dont want to sell the car cuz they dont ahve parts for it but ty

Tom!
__________________
Tc4 Stock / 1/12 pan car! /

Selling tc4 160!

Tom :D
TomElEctric! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 07:24 PM   #30424
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,636
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
Ye i have the l4 thats why i was asking cuz the car is discontinued and i dont want to sell the car cuz they dont ahve parts for it but ty

Tom!
Don't sell it. I run a 12L4. Parts from 12 year old 12L's still fit it and parts from cars 12 years from now will still fit it. Plus you can find entire cars on ebay for 50 bux. Nearly every car out there uses the AE front end. It is the same as a 12R5. The only part that you will ever break that might eventually get hard to find (and I'm talking many years from now) is the lower pod plate.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 07:49 PM   #30425
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Nj
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to TomElEctric!
Default 1

Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!
__________________
Tc4 Stock / 1/12 pan car! /

Selling tc4 160!

Tom :D
TomElEctric! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 08:10 PM   #30426
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!
You never really answered my original questions which would help. Are you just starting out? What class are going to run in? What size batteries? 3000, 3300, 4200 or 4600 mah? What are the other guys at your track running? Stock? Mod? Take a couple of minutes to properly answer and the smart folks here could help.
SteveL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 08:33 PM   #30427
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!

I don't know if you are just starting out or have been running these. It sounds like you are just starting. I would do like the other guys on here say. I have raced with some of them and they know what they are talking about. One thing I would toss to you to think about is going with the Brushless setup. My reasoning here is simple. If you can eliminate the motor as something you have to worry about, it will give you more time to work on setup and make sure your batteries are up and in good shape between rounds. For me, someone that has been racing only a few weeks, going brushless has let me shave off 1.5 seconds per lap - on average and add two to three laps per run. The Brushless lets me work on setup and keep the car and other things consistent. I no longer have to worry with keeping the motor up and that has made the biggest difference for me since I started 1/12th.

Hope this helps
mracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 10:06 PM   #30428
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Nj
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to TomElEctric!
Default

OK my track runs Mod 4 cell any motor! i think and i just started Racing 1/12 so im a rookie in 1/12! but i race 1.18 but thats a diff story but idk any thing about these things BTW is it smart to put in a 1/18 scale motor in? cuz i read a thread about it!

Im out gn!
__________________
Tc4 Stock / 1/12 pan car! /

Selling tc4 160!

Tom :D
TomElEctric! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 11:51 PM   #30429
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
The future of 1/12 scale looks pretty bright from here. For stock anyway.

I have been playing with the 13.5/1c setup for a month now. And loving every min of it. No more scratching my head trying to figure out why I have no power, or why it dumps after 7 mins. No more baby sitting batterys so they dont die between races. For the most part, between rounds all I do is clean the car and tires, charge the rx pack and dope up. Now its posibble to run more than one class or just bs with the guys.
Which NiMh were you using that die between races? My cells don't do that, I terat them just like LiPo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Heres my take on brushless/lipo.

Brushless.....When it first came out nobody could get it up to speed. We figured it out and really got them to work. They have really close to the same power as a fresh built and tuned brushed motor but it runs like that all the time.
Er... I don't think WE did anything. The manufacturer's did a lot to make the motors drive more like brushed, and that's what has done more to increase BL usage than anything else. And they don't run like that all the time unless you regularly clean them, and spend quite a bit of time tuning them with the adjustable timing on the motor, and the speedo, to get hte sweet point for each track. They are much closer in speed, as you say, but please don't imply that they are buy, fit, be competitive - there's a lot more to it than that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Now we have 13.5/1 cell li-po powerd 1/12 scale. Some say its faster than 17.5/4cell. On average they are correct. These things are missles for a stock class car. BUT, if you ever go to a big race and see the really fast guys and wonder how they get there cars to go so dam fast? Batterys that we cant find, afford or just plain cant get !!!!!! With this setup EVERYBODY can have factory level power !!

I have had the chance to race a few of the truly fast guys. You know, the ones that can put it in the A at a big event? Guess what? I can now run nose to tail with them because I have the same power!! Whats that gonna do for the sport??
You will until those fast guys get LiPo power, and then it will be the same as it is now. When everyone runs LiPo, there will be factory cells, there will be overcharging and there will be fresh packs every few runs. LiPo is for the enthusiast racer, not the A Main guy who is paid to race at all the major international events, all of which use NiMh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Answer? Way closer racing. A battle between drivers and not there wallets !! Chassis setup is still a big part of it but with pan cars its allmost a no brainer. These are the easyest and fastest chassis to setup that I have ever run. Yes Im new to pan cars but by the 3rd race I had my car perfectly dialed in. It leaves me wanting NOTHING in handling.
We already have this using NiMh - for now. Once we get the hang of tuning the BL motors, we will be back to the 'secrets' of the past, and some people having better motors. It's already starting to happen...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
In these ecomonic times, we have to cut cost were we can. In that asspect this is a home run !!

I guess if R.O.A.R. is driven by the industry it will take for ever to get a ruling on this class, or never. If they are driver supportive then we should hear somthing soon.

See you at the races.
DK
Yes we do have to cut costs. And three packs of NiMh cost less than one LiPo pack and they now last just as long. Also, in these "economic times" (when do we not live in economic times??!!!) do not have the price of a new charger for LiPo, and they already have all the kit for NiMh.

It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 05:06 AM   #30430
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Which NiMh were you using that die between races? My cells don't do that, I terat them just like LiPo.
3800's and 4200's. IB I believe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Er... I don't think WE did anything. The manufacturer's did a lot to make the motors drive more like brushed, and that's what has done more to increase BL usage than anything else. And they don't run like that all the time unless you regularly clean them, and spend quite a bit of time tuning them with the adjustable timing on the motor, and the speedo, to get hte sweet point for each track. They are much closer in speed, as you say, but please don't imply that they are buy, fit, be competitive - there's a lot more to it than that!
I was competitive right out of the gate. Ya there was a little fine tuning but its just that, fine tuning. Why would you clean a brushless motor? Running in some dirty parking lot? They dont make dirt by running them like the brushed. Once I got my motor tuned the way I like I dont change it for lay out. Maybe a gear change but thats about it. And my brushless are set to feel NOTHING like a brushed motor. Nice fat tork curve and roll forever when I get off the power.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
You will until those fast guys get LiPo power, and then it will be the same as it is now. When everyone runs LiPo, there will be factory cells, there will be overcharging and there will be fresh packs every few runs. LiPo is for the enthusiast racer, not the A Main guy who is paid to race at all the major international events, all of which use NiMh.
The cream will rise to the top, but again this combo will let the guy that can drive and setup get there when before he had no hp.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
We already have this using NiMh - for now. Once we get the hang of tuning the BL motors, we will be back to the 'secrets' of the past, and some people having better motors. It's already starting to happen...
At race's with handout motors, some guys could be down on power as much as 50%. That will never happen in brushless. Maybe a 10% diffrents in power out put?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Yes we do have to cut costs. And three packs of NiMh cost less than one LiPo pack and they now last just as long. Also, in these "economic times" (when do we not live in economic times??!!!) do not have the price of a new charger for LiPo, and they already have all the kit for NiMh.
Back in the 90 and 2000's jobs were everywhere and everbody was working over time. Good money, good jobs, notice that racing was huge then ??? Where are you getting your batt's from ?!?! I paid $50 for my 1 cell pack. Went looking for 4cell packs and there the same price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...
Why would you need a new kit? You can drop the smc 1cell lipo in any 1/12 car out there. You can get a lipo,round cell charger for as little as $50. Thats what you would have spent on tires that the 4cell car chewed up in 3 weeks of racing. Trust me, you dont want my job.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 07:29 AM   #30431
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SUNA View Post
For all you GenX 12th scalers out there...I have a quick question.

How do you mount your PT? With just a flathead and nut...or do you use the hardware shown as per CRC website? I do not have this mounting hardware...would anyone have a part number?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SUNA View Post
I just can't seem to find them. They're needed to make it flush (countersunk)...otherwise I will have to flip it over and run it bulky side up.
SUNA,

I use a couple of nylon washers under each tab. Makes the transponder sit flush just fine. No special or hard to find hardware involved here.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-dsc00286.jpg   1/12 forum-dsc00288.jpg  
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 07:51 AM   #30432
Tech Regular
 
Impulse_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 250
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Why would you need a new kit? You can drop the smc 1cell lipo in any 1/12 car out there. You can get a lipo,round cell charger for as little as $50. Thats what you would have spent on tires that the 4cell car chewed up in 3 weeks of racing. Trust me, you dont want my job.

DK

What about the drivers who drive T-bar cars? There is a very large group of drivers that own T-bar cars as well as two new T-bar cars just being introduced that have become very popular. Sure the lipo pack will drop in any link car or BMI but in T-bar cars the chassis is basically cut in half by the T-bar. When the manufacturers come out with a format to address this issue then your arguments for lipo could carry the weight of ALL of 1/12 scale. Not alienate a large group of racers. R.O.A.R. takes into account ALL members of a class as well as the availability/use of new technologies to those members before making sweeping changes to a class.
__________________
Xray T3 EU
KO Propo Helios
Tekin RS Pro/LRP X-12/Venom LiPo
Hudy
Litemodz CVS
Impulse_racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 07:59 AM   #30433
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Impulse_racer View Post
What about the drivers who drive T-bar cars? There is a very large group of drivers that own T-bar cars as well as two new T-bar cars just being introduced that have become very popular. Sure the lipo pack will drop in any link car or BMI but in T-bar cars the chassis is basically cut in half by the T-bar. When the manufacturers come out with a format to address this issue then your arguments for lipo could carry the weight of ALL of 1/12 scale. Not alienate a large group of racers. R.O.A.R. takes into account ALL members of a class as well as the availability/use of new technologies to those members before making sweeping changes to a class.
You can set it up like a sedan. Pack on one side and rest on the other. Might need a touch of lead to really even it out but no big deal. I have a .5 oz of lead on my pod to balance the brushless motor in the brushed pod.

I was looking at a 12l4 and the pack would sink into the battery slots in the back so it wouldnt sit level on the chassis. That car has plastic batt holders so you can move your pack back and forth. I put that in and dropped the lipo on it. It sat perfectly flat on the chassis and kinda lock in too.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 08:32 AM   #30434
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
SUNA,

I use a couple of nylon washers under each tab. Makes the transponder sit flush just fine. No special or hard to find hardware involved here.
This weekend at our track, we found out it actually makes a difference which way your transponder is facing. A couple guys had their transponder facing down, like in the picture shown, but our loop hangs over the track and the loop was missing laps. When those guys flipped their transponder over to face up, it worked fine and counted all their laps.

Probably not a big concern but, if you're having those problems, that may be something to look at.
EVILGRAFX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 08:43 AM   #30435
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
.

It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...

Your right. Leave 1/12th alone. If its not broke right? Then when you guys die or stop racing the class will die with you and all this BS will stop.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
tdu verney
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0