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Last edit by: DesertRat
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. Someone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time. On black carpet the car may be numb to sauce changes, either a long or short sauce can produce very similar handling.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front. Alternatively you can sauce the front tires harder and tune the car for less front end bite.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz. Possibly a longer sauce will prevent fuzzing.

Alternatively, mild tire fuzzing can be remedied with longer sauce soak times, particularly if you are using SXT3 as your house sauce.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact




Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!
If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!
If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

PAN CAR TUNING:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
Pan Car Rear Pod Tuning:
Modern pan cars are all link cars with a center pivot ball and solid rear axle. This suspension system is required by ROAR rules and has the advantage of being simple, lightweight, and inexpensive compared to other more exotic methods of rear suspension, but it has some complicated movements that can be unintuitive.

Motion of the Rear Pod:

Due to how the rear pod is a solid axle, the only motion the pod itself sees is the main pivot up and down, but due to the main chassis being independently sprung it will feel the lean, dive, and squat of the main chassis as the car is driven. The lateral forces of the main chassis during cornering is transmitted through the main pivot ball and side links, the roll through the side springs and side dampeners, and the squat and dive through the main shock and spring. In addition, the torque of the motor against the pinion gear both during acceleration and braking is significant enough to cause a change in attitude even in low-powered classes. The motor pinion will try to “climb” the spur gear, lifting the center pivot of the car and countering the “squat” of the main chassis weight being transferred backward by the acceleration or the opposite under brakes.

Main Shock:

The adjustment of the main shock of a pan car is one of its more important tuning parameters. Spring, dampening oil, and pod droop are all controlled by the main shock.

Main Spring:

A soft main spring generally means more rear grip and more forgiving off-power, while a stiffer spring can mean more steering especially off-power, but the main spring must also be stiff enough to prevent the chassis from dragging when running on high grip. For most cars the kit spring is a medium weight spring that is a good starting point.

Main Shock Dampening:

The weight of the main shock oil will determine how fast the car will react off-power. 30wt or roughly 300cps shock oil is a good starting point, going up in weight will increase initial off-power turn-in, while going down will generally make initial turn-in softer. Often a heavier shock oil can make the car transition from entry to mid to corner exit smoother, where a car with light fluid may have a more pronounced ‘hook’ in the mid corner.

Side Springs:

The side springs transfer the roll motion of the main chassis to the rear plate via spring tension. Softer side springs give the car more rear grip and can make the car have a smoother steering feel. Stiffer springs promote the cars rotation and give more steering. You can either pre-load side springs or let them float, due to all side springs being progressive beehive shaped springs pre-load makes them effectively harder and will give more steering, but a small amount of pre-load can also make the care more predictable and forgiving. In conditions of extremely high grip, it may be possible to run no side springs at all due to the steering afforded by the tacky running surface and helps prevent traction-roll, likewise in extremely low grip when rear stability is absolutely necessary. Generally 1/12 cars run soft side springs but stiffer ones can be very common in Pro 10, WGT, or WGT-R.

Side Dampener Tubes:

Heavier tube lube will keep a car flatter at corner entry, initiating quicker. It may also make the car square off the corner entry when the grip gets beyond med-high. Going lighter will reduce steering initiation and maybe preferred on higher grip. This parameter is really unique to the driver preference, as some drivers are very fast and consistent with heavily dampened cars while others prefer softer setups.

Droop:

Controlled by the length of the shock, adjusting the rear pod droop is extremely important on high-grip surfaces. Reducing droop prevents the car from transferring weight during cornering and will give more rear stability and prevent traction-roll or problematic lifting of the inside rear tires during cornering, low droop can also give the car slightly more on-power steering. Increasing will allow the car to transfer more weight and dive harder into corners, but by allowing the center of the car to rise you will be more prone to traction roll issues. A typical starting point is 1-2mm of droop from ride height, but 0mm is often used on high grip.
Pan Car Differential Tuning:

This is officially where the Black Magic starts. Highly successful pan car racers can have very different ways of building diffs, but the following tips have helped multiple racers assemble consistent pan car diffs:

All modern pan cars are direct drive and use a ball-diff type solid axle. This is the lightest and most efficient manner of transferring power to the drive wheels, and by far the simplest drive system used in RC. In spite of its simplicity and low number of parts, pan car differentials are often miss-understood, particularly by those who have never raced pan cars before. This short guild will hopefully clear up any misconceptions about assembly, tuning, and troubleshooting of pan car differentials for beginners.

Assembly:

It is recommended that you use an electronics cleaner or plastic-safe motor spray to clean the dirt, oils or grease out of even fresh parts to ensure a good diff action. Some racers will blast new bearing grease out of bearings before re-oiling with light oil, but this may not be as beneficial as some believe and that light oil can get into the diff and cause slipping. The most important parts to get clean and dry are the diff rings, diff balls, and spur gear. Then assemble the diff according to the kit instructions, but refrain from adding grease until the next step.

When assembling your differential, pay attention to clearances between different moving surfaces, bearings should fit snug and spin free, including the bearing on which the spur gear is mounted because if the spur gear is not tight with its carrier bearing it will not spin true. With the diff assembled but not yet greased there should be a tick of side-to-side play in the spur gear when torqued side-to-side, indicating that the diff balls and not the gear are in contact with the diff rings. Check the action of the diff with it dry, as it will be easier to determine the source of binding or roughness than it would be before greasing the diff. If it turns smooth but with good ‘bite’ between the diff balls and ring gears without slipping, the spur gear and diff balls are ready for grease.

Almost without fail racers from other RC classes such as offroad or touring car assemble their first pan car diffs with far too much grease. It is important to understand that the point of grease in pan car diffs is not to smooth out the operation of the components as they mesh together as it is in a gear diff, but to lube the contact between spur gear spinning diff ball.
The type of grease to use is white silicone grease such as Team Associated Stealth grease. This is not “good grease” as it is not slippery and does not cushion metal surfaces well, but that is the point, you are counting on the friction between the diff ball and diff ring to transfer all of the power your motor makes to the axle. Using more slippery grease like black carbon/moly grease will make your differential slip.

To apply grease, remove the spur gear with the diff balls still in their pockets, and dab a tiny amount of grease to each diff ball, and by tiny I mean that the dot of grease should just barely cover the visible surface of the diff ball, steady hands will be necessary. With the dab of grease on each diff ball, use your thumb and forefinger to roll each diff ball in its pocket to evenly spread the grease on the inner surface of the spur gear. Most of the grease will wind up on your fingers, and that is intentional. This is the most reliable action the author has found to get an appropriate amount of grease into the diff.

The next step may be slightly controversial, as we have already removed most of this admittedly tiny amount of grease from the spur gear/diff ball assembly: Take a clean shop towel or rag and firmly wipe down both sides of the spur gear, with the objective of getting all of the grease off from both sides of the plastic gear except for what is in the diff ball pockets. This is necessary to ensure that excess grease does not get onto the ring gears. DO NOT GREASE THE RING GEARS, enough grease will get on them to ensure good operation just from the grease left in the diff balls. Re-assemble the diff.

Setting Differential Pre-Load:

A pan car will almost always benefit from the pre-load of the diff only being strong enough to prevent the diff from slipping. A tight or viscous diff like the oil-filled gear diffs now popular in touring car will lead to unpredictable handling and oversteer. Also, over-tightening the diff can damage either the thrust bearing assembly or outside bearing. As you tighten the diff, check how much force it takes to turn the slip the spur gear, if it takes some effort with your thumb, the diff is probably tight enough. Another way to measure if the diff is tight enough is on-track, if your car will spin the tires from a standing full-throttle start before slipping the diff it is tight enough to race.

A very common issue is that your diff requires excessive preload to prevent slipping, the most likely explanation is that you used too much grease or some other oil has gotten into the diff in which case a clean-out and re-greasing of the diff would be useful. If you assembled the diff dry and had it didn’t slip, but it slips after adding grease, you need to use less grease and try to keep that grease from getting onto the surface of the diff rings. One option would be to spin up the diff with the motor or by hand, then disassemble and clean the diff rings with motor spray before re-assembling and checking the tension by hand again. This can use the centrifugal force of spinning the diff to remove excess grease from the spur gear. DO NOT simply hold one tire to spin up the diff and other tire to full speed especially if running higher powered classes, this is far more RPM difference than the diff will ever see during racing and may damage your spur gear from the heat. Free-spinning the axle assembly is fine to remove excess grease, but don’t over-speed the diff action.

Final Assembly:

When assembling your diff with the pod, take care to not put pre-load on the pod bearings or this may cause binding. Some racers intentionally put a tick of side-to-side play between the pod bearings and the axle by placing a piece of paper between the hub and bearing before tightening it, this may be excessive but will ensure smooth action without a bind.

General Tips:

1: Silicon Nitride diff balls are THE FIRST upgrade the author would recommend to new pan car racers. At under $1 each they are basically the same price as hardened steel and will never need to be replaced, and at nearly diamond-hardness will never flat spot or be the cause of a bad or crunchy diff. One set has lasted the author three different cars.

2: XENON Racing spur gears are the best pan car spur gears. Period. This is particularly true in low-powered classes that use smaller spurs. The plastic they use is distinctly stiffer and better cut than Kimbrough or other softer gears. They do have the ability to take 16 diff balls, but can be run with 8 or 12 and still be perfectly smooth.

3: A diff that uses a dedicated thrust bearing assembly instead of a ‘thrust washer’ that simply pushes against the outer hub bearing have a significant durability advantage. Standard ball bearings are not meant to hold the amount of axial load these diffs require, and when the diff takes a hit such as when you clip a corner with a back wheel that shock zaps right back through that bearing, bending a spot in the race and making the diff feel like it was assembled with diff rocks. The Slapmaster or Yokomo R12 thrust bearing can be adapted to other cars.

4: Unless they are damaged it is generally unnecessary to change diff rings or balls doing general maintenance. A quick clean out and rebuild will do a lot for your diff action. Many instances of diff rings lasting entire racing seasons without issue are commonplace, and haphazardly replacing components looking for smooth diff action is generally unnecessary.

Diff Troubleshooting:

1: Diff feels crunchy –

Check your diff balls and rings, if they are clean and fresh check your bearings to ensure that they are smooth and undamaged. A bearing with a damaged race can still spin relatively smoothly, but cause a crunchy feel, especially when you are not running a thrust bearing in your diff.

2: Diff has a tight spot but otherwise smooth –

Make sure that your diff rings are flat against the axle and hub, and that they are not bent or damaged. Also, a bent or damaged spur gear can make the diff have a tight spot due to the diff balls being forced into an oval-shaped path instead of a circle.

3: Diff feels smooth before the run but seems to tighten during use, causing the car to go loose –

Disassemble, clean, and re-grease the diff. Going too long between rebuilds may cause your diff to go dry and under the heat of racing it will tighten and cause oversteer.

4: Car pulls under acceleration or braking –

Check the pod bearings and axle for any bent or damaged components. Also many times a car that pulls under power will have a damaged wheel, make sure that they spin true.
Pan Weight Distribution:

In a pan car running a transverse battery layout, you may have the choice of running the battery forward in the chassis or back, changing the static distribution of weight. On low grip surfaces such as asphalt this typically coincides with grip, a front mounted battery will have more front grip and a rear mounted would have more rear grip, but this logic falls apart on carpet.

On carpet, especially high-grip carpet, running your pack toward the back of the car can make you prone to traction roll or lifting of the inside rear tires in corners. It also will narrow the cars ‘tuning window’, amplifying the effects of setup changes and changes in conditions. The upside is that under the right circumstances such as a medium-grip carpet track and high-grip rear tires a rear-pack setup can carry a lot of corner speed by preventing the back from rotating and making it ‘follow the front’ instead of pivoting on it.

Running the battery forward in the car or switching to an inline setup will usually make the car easier to drive on carpet. It takes side-load off the rear pivot and rear tires, which mellows the car and helps to prevent traction roll. The car will usually be less sensitive to tuning changes as well.

The static weight distribution the author would recommend to start is about 60% rear, 40% front. A few % change is fine, but try not to have more than 60% on the rear to start as a heavily rear-biased car can begin to be hard to tune. 55%/45% may be easier to drive.

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Old 01-25-2009, 05:31 PM   #30421
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Hi Steve,

The Snowbirds runs backwards because of the mix of oval/roadcourse. They don't want to screw up the groove for the oval guys.

Lots of tracks start to run counter clockwise right after Cleveland to get used to it.

It's not that big of a deal.

Take care.-Bruce
Doh! I should have known that but it's been about 10 years since I've run any oval, and that was on banked concrete. Thanks Bruce. Just today I ran accross a bunch of old Speedmerchant decal sheets, and I see you're still not making a t-bar car. Inside joke to those wondering.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:14 PM   #30422
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I have a question! do all 1/12 cars share parts? because they all look the same Lol
No, not all share parts but yes, most do. If you want something completely different get a Corally. If you want something fairly unique but with a few common parts (and wicked fast) get a BMI. If you want a refined version of all the other cars, get a Serpent. If you want the car that is the source of all those common parts get a 12L4.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:16 PM   #30423
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Ye i have the l4 thats why i was asking cuz the car is discontinued and i dont want to sell the car cuz they dont ahve parts for it but ty

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Old 01-25-2009, 06:24 PM   #30424
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Ye i have the l4 thats why i was asking cuz the car is discontinued and i dont want to sell the car cuz they dont ahve parts for it but ty

Tom!
Don't sell it. I run a 12L4. Parts from 12 year old 12L's still fit it and parts from cars 12 years from now will still fit it. Plus you can find entire cars on ebay for 50 bux. Nearly every car out there uses the AE front end. It is the same as a 12R5. The only part that you will ever break that might eventually get hard to find (and I'm talking many years from now) is the lower pod plate.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:49 PM   #30425
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Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:10 PM   #30426
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Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!
You never really answered my original questions which would help. Are you just starting out? What class are going to run in? What size batteries? 3000, 3300, 4200 or 4600 mah? What are the other guys at your track running? Stock? Mod? Take a couple of minutes to properly answer and the smart folks here could help.
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:33 PM   #30427
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Ye .. But i still dont know WAT KIDN OF MOTOR! to put into it becuase i dont want a brushless no point i want a brushed that is decent!

I don't know if you are just starting out or have been running these. It sounds like you are just starting. I would do like the other guys on here say. I have raced with some of them and they know what they are talking about. One thing I would toss to you to think about is going with the Brushless setup. My reasoning here is simple. If you can eliminate the motor as something you have to worry about, it will give you more time to work on setup and make sure your batteries are up and in good shape between rounds. For me, someone that has been racing only a few weeks, going brushless has let me shave off 1.5 seconds per lap - on average and add two to three laps per run. The Brushless lets me work on setup and keep the car and other things consistent. I no longer have to worry with keeping the motor up and that has made the biggest difference for me since I started 1/12th.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:06 PM   #30428
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OK my track runs Mod 4 cell any motor! i think and i just started Racing 1/12 so im a rookie in 1/12! but i race 1.18 but thats a diff story but idk any thing about these things BTW is it smart to put in a 1/18 scale motor in? cuz i read a thread about it!

Im out gn!
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:51 PM   #30429
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The future of 1/12 scale looks pretty bright from here. For stock anyway.

I have been playing with the 13.5/1c setup for a month now. And loving every min of it. No more scratching my head trying to figure out why I have no power, or why it dumps after 7 mins. No more baby sitting batterys so they dont die between races. For the most part, between rounds all I do is clean the car and tires, charge the rx pack and dope up. Now its posibble to run more than one class or just bs with the guys.
Which NiMh were you using that die between races? My cells don't do that, I terat them just like LiPo.

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Heres my take on brushless/lipo.

Brushless.....When it first came out nobody could get it up to speed. We figured it out and really got them to work. They have really close to the same power as a fresh built and tuned brushed motor but it runs like that all the time.
Er... I don't think WE did anything. The manufacturer's did a lot to make the motors drive more like brushed, and that's what has done more to increase BL usage than anything else. And they don't run like that all the time unless you regularly clean them, and spend quite a bit of time tuning them with the adjustable timing on the motor, and the speedo, to get hte sweet point for each track. They are much closer in speed, as you say, but please don't imply that they are buy, fit, be competitive - there's a lot more to it than that!

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Now we have 13.5/1 cell li-po powerd 1/12 scale. Some say its faster than 17.5/4cell. On average they are correct. These things are missles for a stock class car. BUT, if you ever go to a big race and see the really fast guys and wonder how they get there cars to go so dam fast? Batterys that we cant find, afford or just plain cant get !!!!!! With this setup EVERYBODY can have factory level power !!

I have had the chance to race a few of the truly fast guys. You know, the ones that can put it in the A at a big event? Guess what? I can now run nose to tail with them because I have the same power!! Whats that gonna do for the sport??
You will until those fast guys get LiPo power, and then it will be the same as it is now. When everyone runs LiPo, there will be factory cells, there will be overcharging and there will be fresh packs every few runs. LiPo is for the enthusiast racer, not the A Main guy who is paid to race at all the major international events, all of which use NiMh.

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Answer? Way closer racing. A battle between drivers and not there wallets !! Chassis setup is still a big part of it but with pan cars its allmost a no brainer. These are the easyest and fastest chassis to setup that I have ever run. Yes Im new to pan cars but by the 3rd race I had my car perfectly dialed in. It leaves me wanting NOTHING in handling.
We already have this using NiMh - for now. Once we get the hang of tuning the BL motors, we will be back to the 'secrets' of the past, and some people having better motors. It's already starting to happen...

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In these ecomonic times, we have to cut cost were we can. In that asspect this is a home run !!

I guess if R.O.A.R. is driven by the industry it will take for ever to get a ruling on this class, or never. If they are driver supportive then we should hear somthing soon.

See you at the races.
DK
Yes we do have to cut costs. And three packs of NiMh cost less than one LiPo pack and they now last just as long. Also, in these "economic times" (when do we not live in economic times??!!!) do not have the price of a new charger for LiPo, and they already have all the kit for NiMh.

It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:06 AM   #30430
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Which NiMh were you using that die between races? My cells don't do that, I terat them just like LiPo.
3800's and 4200's. IB I believe.


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Er... I don't think WE did anything. The manufacturer's did a lot to make the motors drive more like brushed, and that's what has done more to increase BL usage than anything else. And they don't run like that all the time unless you regularly clean them, and spend quite a bit of time tuning them with the adjustable timing on the motor, and the speedo, to get hte sweet point for each track. They are much closer in speed, as you say, but please don't imply that they are buy, fit, be competitive - there's a lot more to it than that!
I was competitive right out of the gate. Ya there was a little fine tuning but its just that, fine tuning. Why would you clean a brushless motor? Running in some dirty parking lot? They dont make dirt by running them like the brushed. Once I got my motor tuned the way I like I dont change it for lay out. Maybe a gear change but thats about it. And my brushless are set to feel NOTHING like a brushed motor. Nice fat tork curve and roll forever when I get off the power.


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You will until those fast guys get LiPo power, and then it will be the same as it is now. When everyone runs LiPo, there will be factory cells, there will be overcharging and there will be fresh packs every few runs. LiPo is for the enthusiast racer, not the A Main guy who is paid to race at all the major international events, all of which use NiMh.
The cream will rise to the top, but again this combo will let the guy that can drive and setup get there when before he had no hp.


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We already have this using NiMh - for now. Once we get the hang of tuning the BL motors, we will be back to the 'secrets' of the past, and some people having better motors. It's already starting to happen...
At race's with handout motors, some guys could be down on power as much as 50%. That will never happen in brushless. Maybe a 10% diffrents in power out put?

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Yes we do have to cut costs. And three packs of NiMh cost less than one LiPo pack and they now last just as long. Also, in these "economic times" (when do we not live in economic times??!!!) do not have the price of a new charger for LiPo, and they already have all the kit for NiMh.
Back in the 90 and 2000's jobs were everywhere and everbody was working over time. Good money, good jobs, notice that racing was huge then ??? Where are you getting your batt's from ?!?! I paid $50 for my 1 cell pack. Went looking for 4cell packs and there the same price.

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It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...
Why would you need a new kit? You can drop the smc 1cell lipo in any 1/12 car out there. You can get a lipo,round cell charger for as little as $50. Thats what you would have spent on tires that the 4cell car chewed up in 3 weeks of racing. Trust me, you dont want my job.

DK
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:29 AM   #30431
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For all you GenX 12th scalers out there...I have a quick question.

How do you mount your PT? With just a flathead and nut...or do you use the hardware shown as per CRC website? I do not have this mounting hardware...would anyone have a part number?

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I just can't seem to find them. They're needed to make it flush (countersunk)...otherwise I will have to flip it over and run it bulky side up.
SUNA,

I use a couple of nylon washers under each tab. Makes the transponder sit flush just fine. No special or hard to find hardware involved here.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:51 AM   #30432
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Why would you need a new kit? You can drop the smc 1cell lipo in any 1/12 car out there. You can get a lipo,round cell charger for as little as $50. Thats what you would have spent on tires that the 4cell car chewed up in 3 weeks of racing. Trust me, you dont want my job.

DK

What about the drivers who drive T-bar cars? There is a very large group of drivers that own T-bar cars as well as two new T-bar cars just being introduced that have become very popular. Sure the lipo pack will drop in any link car or BMI but in T-bar cars the chassis is basically cut in half by the T-bar. When the manufacturers come out with a format to address this issue then your arguments for lipo could carry the weight of ALL of 1/12 scale. Not alienate a large group of racers. R.O.A.R. takes into account ALL members of a class as well as the availability/use of new technologies to those members before making sweeping changes to a class.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:59 AM   #30433
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What about the drivers who drive T-bar cars? There is a very large group of drivers that own T-bar cars as well as two new T-bar cars just being introduced that have become very popular. Sure the lipo pack will drop in any link car or BMI but in T-bar cars the chassis is basically cut in half by the T-bar. When the manufacturers come out with a format to address this issue then your arguments for lipo could carry the weight of ALL of 1/12 scale. Not alienate a large group of racers. R.O.A.R. takes into account ALL members of a class as well as the availability/use of new technologies to those members before making sweeping changes to a class.
You can set it up like a sedan. Pack on one side and rest on the other. Might need a touch of lead to really even it out but no big deal. I have a .5 oz of lead on my pod to balance the brushless motor in the brushed pod.

I was looking at a 12l4 and the pack would sink into the battery slots in the back so it wouldnt sit level on the chassis. That car has plastic batt holders so you can move your pack back and forth. I put that in and dropped the lipo on it. It sat perfectly flat on the chassis and kinda lock in too.

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Old 01-26-2009, 07:32 AM   #30434
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SUNA,

I use a couple of nylon washers under each tab. Makes the transponder sit flush just fine. No special or hard to find hardware involved here.
This weekend at our track, we found out it actually makes a difference which way your transponder is facing. A couple guys had their transponder facing down, like in the picture shown, but our loop hangs over the track and the loop was missing laps. When those guys flipped their transponder over to face up, it worked fine and counted all their laps.

Probably not a big concern but, if you're having those problems, that may be something to look at.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:43 AM   #30435
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.

It's fine if you want to run LiPo, but I don't. Why do you think it's OK to keep pushing the National Associations to change to Rules so I HAVE to invest in new gear, when I already have perfectly good gear. It is more likely I will give up 12th if I cannot afford to invest in new kit. Perhaps you'd like to give me your job so I ahve the funds to change to LiPo...

Your right. Leave 1/12th alone. If its not broke right? Then when you guys die or stop racing the class will die with you and all this BS will stop.

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