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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-24-2009, 01:06 AM   #30406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
So you guys are saying that each cell will still be rated at 30c and have full capacity when only using it alone. So my idea may possibly work.
Yes, each block is a 3.7V 4200/6000mAh 30C battery and , if you wanna run 3.7V and it fits, is perfectly capable of 1/12th racing.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:26 AM   #30407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUNA View Post
For all you GenX 12th scalers out there...I have a quick question.

How do you mount your PT? With just a flathead and nut...or do you use the hardware shown as per CRC website? I do not have this mounting hardware...would anyone have a part number?


The picture of the CRC Gen-X car is one of the Rome, NY local guys cars. The CRC race track has an over head transponder loop and for some reason a lot of people have to elevate the transponder to get consistant counts. Last time I was there I had the same problem and a longer screw and couple washers and I was back in business. This is not likely to occure any where else, so just mount them flat.

Last edited by rpoage; 01-24-2009 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:35 AM   #30408
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Originally Posted by SUNA View Post
For all you GenX 12th scalers out there...I have a quick question.

How do you mount your PT? With just a flathead and nut...or do you use the hardware shown as per CRC website? I do not have this mounting hardware...would anyone have a part number?

4-40 screws and lock nuts are easy to get. For spacers I use fuel tubing. Just tighten the nut until the transponder is flush with the chassis. The fuel tubing also acts as a shock mount, not that you really need it.
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:44 AM   #30409
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I was building my ae pan car and the screw got stripped idk how ot get it out
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:52 AM   #30410
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I was building my ae pan car and the screw got stripped idk how ot get it out
I usually use a Dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot in the screw head (being careful not to cut into anything else, like the chassis) then use a flat head screw driver. This is a reason I prefer steel screws over aluminum, the heads don't strip as easy, at the cost of a few grams.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:20 PM   #30411
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RC12L4 Factory Team Kit I just got it and i found out its discontinued! I dont like wen cars are discontinued but do u think its going to be rLLY hard to get parts? cuz idk wat to do
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:27 PM   #30412
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RC12L4 Factory Team Kit I just got it and i found out its discontinued! I dont like wen cars are discontinued but do u think its going to be rLLY hard to get parts? cuz idk wat to do
It should be extremely easy to get parts for this car. Many parts are interchangeable with other cars. The only things that may be harder is the actual chassis plate, and pod plates but, my guess is, those will probably not be a problem either.

It's not a bad car at all.
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:37 PM   #30413
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Originally Posted by TomElEctric! View Post
RC12L4 Factory Team Kit I just got it and i found out its discontinued! I dont like wen cars are discontinued but do u think its going to be rLLY hard to get parts? cuz idk wat to do
I wouldn't worry about it being discontinued as they will carry parts for a long, long time. It's a great kit and is still competitive. Not that much different than the new 12R5 with the t-bar. Just pay close attention to building the front end as it's probably the the most critical for consistent handling. Make sure everything moves freely and check the caster and camber to make sure both sides are the same. Installing the upper arm turnbuckles straight is HUGE in keeping the caster the same on both sides.

The other critical issue is when you build the pivot ball cups for the t-bar. Make sure they do not bind up which is easy to do if you over tighten the 2-56 button head screws.

I would start out with the kit set up but don't be afraid of changing the front springs or rear shock spring to get the car to handle the way you want once you get the hang of things. Best thing to do if you are just strating 1/12 scale is to get track time before messing with set up. Leave it alone until you feel comfortable and then start experimenting with different set ups.

Buy a couple of extra .075" t-bars and lower front arms as they will be the most frequently broken parts. I always had an extra t-bar built with pivot balls and tweak screws already in it so if I broke one it was a 10 minute swap out at the track.

The biggest hassle you'll have is getting a brushless motor in it. You will need to take the top plate off to get it in.

Good luck with it and have fun!
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:45 PM   #30414
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TomElEctric! please stop the "1337 speak". One, it's freaking annoying and makes you come across as illiterate. Two, it's tough to interpret and read. Please use your English skills…it’s going to help you and us communicate better.
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:46 PM   #30415
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I'm Sorry but i play alot of video game's, So that's how i type "1337'
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:39 AM   #30416
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The future of 1/12 scale looks pretty bright from here. For stock anyway.

I have been playing with the 13.5/1c setup for a month now. And loving every min of it. No more scratching my head trying to figure out why I have no power, or why it dumps after 7 mins. No more baby sitting batterys so they dont die between races. For the most part, between rounds all I do is clean the car and tires, charge the rx pack and dope up. Now its posibble to run more than one class or just bs with the guys.

Heres my take on brushless/lipo.

Brushless.....When it first came out nobody could get it up to speed. We figured it out and really got them to work. They have really close to the same power as a fresh built and tuned brushed motor but it runs like that all the time.

Li-po....when it came out it hit pretty hard. In sedan anyway. Everybody had great hp. Then you started to see the guys that could drive and setup a chassis start to run at the front of the pack cause now they had the hp to run with the guys that spent big money on packs and knew how to tune a brushed motor. Allmost nobody would give there secrects out on how to tune those stupid things.

Now we have 13.5/1 cell li-po powerd 1/12 scale. Some say its faster than 17.5/4cell. On average they are correct. These things are missles for a stock class car. BUT, if you ever go to a big race and see the really fast guys and wonder how they get there cars to go so dam fast? Batterys that we cant find, afford or just plain cant get !!!!!! With this setup EVERYBODY can have factory level power !!

I have had the chance to race a few of the truly fast guys. You know, the ones that can put it in the A at a big event? Guess what? I can now run nose to tail with them because I have the same power!! Whats that gonna do for the sport??

Answer? Way closer racing. A battle between drivers and not there wallets !! Chassis setup is still a big part of it but with pan cars its allmost a no brainer. These are the easyest and fastest chassis to setup that I have ever run. Yes Im new to pan cars but by the 3rd race I had my car perfectly dialed in. It leaves me wanting NOTHING in handling.

Mod is gonna need a bigger pack than the 4000 im running. But cant see why they couldnt do it on a 5000 pack. There doing it now on what, 4600 or 5300 round cells ?? They would need a cutoff to protect the pack from being drained too far but thats no big deal. Some one should have one soon seeing how they have them for 2cell now.

Weight.... Yes the 13.5/1c is lighter then round cells. SO WHAT ! The days of showing up with a box of tires to cut to the right size and throwing them out after 1 run are gone ! Ive had the same set of tires on my car for 3 races now. Instead of having to buy new tires every other race I can buy diffrent compounds to try once in a while.

In these ecomonic times, we have to cut cost were we can. In that asspect this is a home run !!

I guess if R.O.A.R. is driven by the industry it will take for ever to get a ruling on this class, or never. If they are driver supportive then we should hear somthing soon.

See you at the races.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:15 AM   #30417
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Last weekend was the third round of the NorthEast Grand Slam at 360 RC Speedway. Here are the two 1/12th A-main videos - Stock 17.5T and Pro 10.5T. There was a great finish by Chester, Chicky and Cyrul for the Pro 10.5T win after Dayger broke.

NEGS Rnd3 1/12th 10.5T Pro A-Main
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


In stock Amato and Spence broke away from the pack but after a few taps by Amato Spence took the win followed by Creado and Amato.

NEGS Rnd3 1/12th 17.5T Stock A-Main
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:55 PM   #30418
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Interesting to see them run the track backwards! Can't remeber the last time I saw that at a big race?
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Old 01-25-2009, 03:04 PM   #30419
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Hi Steve,

The Snowbirds runs backwards because of the mix of oval/roadcourse. They don't want to screw up the groove for the oval guys.

Lots of tracks start to run counter clockwise right after Cleveland to get used to it.

It's not that big of a deal.

Take care.-Bruce
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:09 PM   #30420
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I have a question! do all 1/12 cars share parts? because they all look the same Lol
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