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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-18-2009, 12:06 AM   #30376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael mercer View Post
I still have my Sean, but it has the Mercer/Delta prototype front suspension.
As you know, it was never released to the general public.
I'm not sure it was ever ready for public consumption.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:04 AM   #30377
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Default Motor help

Hi guys,
Last night my car got smacked pretty hard from behind and top speed fell nearly in half. When I finished the race the motor smelled hot. I borrowed a temp gun and the motor can was 210 degree F. The whole drive train was binding up real good.

What should a max temperature be and what gets affected with high temp?

The motor is a brushed 27t, rebuildable with bearings. What should I inspect to tell if its ruined or should I just toss it and get another?

Thanks, Lee B.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:14 AM   #30378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Hi guys,
Last night my car got smacked pretty hard from behind and top speed fell nearly in half. When I finished the race the motor smelled hot. I borrowed a temp gun and the motor can was 210 degree F. The whole drive train was binding up real good.

What should a max temperature be and what gets affected with high temp?

The motor is a brushed 27t, rebuildable with bearings. What should I inspect to tell if its ruined or should I just toss it and get another?

Thanks, Lee B.
It's a good bet you knocked the endbell off the motor, or moved it just enough so that the bushings are not aligned, and that's whats causing the binding. Take the motor out, take it apart and inspect the lock ring under the end bell.

Also there's a good chance if you can smell something from the motor you cooked it and will probably never be back to 100% again.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:22 AM   #30379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Hi guys,
Last night my car got smacked pretty hard from behind and top speed fell nearly in half. When I finished the race the motor smelled hot. I borrowed a temp gun and the motor can was 210 degree F. The whole drive train was binding up real good.

What should a max temperature be and what gets affected with high temp?

The motor is a brushed 27t, rebuildable with bearings. What should I inspect to tell if its ruined or should I just toss it and get another?

Thanks, Lee B.
Tear the motor down and check the fitment of the endbell, bearings and the windings on the rotor. If the windings are burnt you can get a replacement rotor, and rebuild the motor. But if the whole drivetrain is binding you should also tear down the diff and see if something is bent in that assembly. I've never seen the drivetrain get bound up just with the motor being a bit off.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:49 AM   #30380
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Jim and Chris,
Thanks for the reply.
Before the race I checked the backlash and it was set properly and after the race there was no backlash. The spur and pinion were meshed together really tight. I haven't pulled it apart yet. I'm hoping the axle isn't knackered up like the motor.

I'll work on it during the Eagles game this afternoon, go Eagles.

Thanks again,
Lee B.
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:05 AM   #30381
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Yea hopefully it didn't hurt the car. More then likely the motor over heated due to all the extra drag caused by the tight mesh. May I ask how long you decided to run it after it started sounding like you installed a nitro motor?

Tear the motor down. Check the color of the winds. If they are purple, you need a new arm. If they aren't "too bad". I would cut the comm and replace the brushes regardless. Also take note that the overwhelming heat will hurt your magnates performance. As said before. She probably won't be 100%.
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Old 01-18-2009, 02:35 PM   #30382
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Hi Slowguy,
It did not make any unusual sounds. I ran for about 3 minutes to complete the race.

I've taken the rear end apart. I have a 12l3 axle on my car. This is the axle with the threaded section on the left (non drive) side. The threaded section is bent. The impact also drove the inner bearing race to the right, completely out of the bearing housing causing the axle to shift way to the right. The left tire was rubbing on the left side of the pod which explains my handling problems.

I'm upgrading to a newer style axle from IRS and all new rear bearings.

New axle and bearings $, possible new motor $, a night out racing with good people, PRICELESS.

I just crack myself up sometimes!

Lee B.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:41 PM   #30383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Hi Slowguy,
It did not make any unusual sounds. I ran for about 3 minutes to complete the race.

I've taken the rear end apart. I have a 12l3 axle on my car. This is the axle with the threaded section on the left (non drive) side. The threaded section is bent. The impact also drove the inner bearing race to the right, completely out of the bearing housing causing the axle to shift way to the right. The left tire was rubbing on the left side of the pod which explains my handling problems.

I'm upgrading to a newer style axle from IRS and all new rear bearings.

New axle and bearings $, possible new motor $, a night out racing with good people, PRICELESS.

I just crack myself up sometimes!

Lee B.
I feel your pain. I have broken parts from last night to replace also. And, like you, I enjoy every moment of it.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:32 PM   #30384
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Hey guys, I have some 12th scale stuff up for sale. If anyone is interested, please feel free to pm me. Thanks.

****ONROAD SELLOFF-MUCH MORE-TRINITY-CRC-GFX-NOVAK-ASSOCIATED****
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:03 PM   #30385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Jim and Chris,
Thanks for the reply.
Before the race I checked the backlash and it was set properly and after the race there was no backlash. The spur and pinion were meshed together really tight. I haven't pulled it apart yet. I'm hoping the axle isn't knackered up like the motor.

I'll work on it during the Eagles game this afternoon, go Eagles.

Thanks again,
Lee B.
Ah, the motor moved. That happens. Probably nothing else wrong, but check your spur gear. If you ground a tooth, replace it.

And, sorry about your Eagles.
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:07 PM   #30386
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Default new to 1/12

anyone out there who can me some tips on what 2 buyex. car,esc,motors,servos,radio i run 1/10 st trucks so im not totally clueless but need help with this class

thanks to all
dominic
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:24 PM   #30387
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Someone tried a Black Art R8C body?
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:27 PM   #30388
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dom,

Any of the furrent crop of 1/12 scale cars can get the job done. I'd stay with what's popular where you'll be racing, better parts support and setup advice that way.

I'd go for any of the good 17.5 brushless motors (unless 17.5 is not the popular class where you will race) and I'd recommend the Tekin RS speed control. It's very light and compact, perfect for a 1.12 car.

Servos, I like the JR 3650, or the Futaba 9650. KO 949 is also great, Airtronics 94145 as well. I'd avoid budget servos.

If you'll be allowed to run single cell LiPO where you'll be racing, then you'd be better off right now to go with a link car, CRC GenX, Speedmerchant Rev5, Associated 12R5, or BMI Db12RR. All great cars, and the side link chassis arrangement is better suited to the single cell LiPO pack curently available.

Tire choice comes down to what's working where you'll be racing.
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:35 PM   #30389
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thanks tripps for the advice
one ? r these the same as 1/10 and how do i find these pieces you mention any good online stores you guys use and r buying used stuff a good idea trying not to break the bank with my purchases thanks agian for the help
dominic
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:51 PM   #30390
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Hey Guys i had an idea. Does anyone think that half a saddle pack lipo could be used in a 12th scale as a 3.7 volt pack? I was looking at some of the intellect ones and it got me thinking. Everyone is wanting a pack with corally tubes, and more mah and higher c rate. This could be the answer. You could use the 6000mah 30c pack.

Attatched is a pic of a pack, so what does everyone think.

Or has anyone tried this already.
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1/12 forum-ip-tp2s4200v1.jpg  
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