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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-07-2009, 10:17 PM   #30271
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Anyone try this on carpet? Our carpet track is indoors and 6 feet away is an indoor off-road track. We get all kinds of dust on the carpet . . .
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:19 PM   #30272
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Anyone try this on carpet? Our carpet track is indoors and 6 feet away is an indoor off-road track. We get all kinds of dust on the carpet . . .
I dont think the suntan lotion trick works on carpet but I have never tried it.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:25 PM   #30273
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When racing buggy's on carpet (foams) there was one guy that used gojo or suntan lotion. Worked great.

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Old 01-07-2009, 10:34 PM   #30274
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Ive been using gojo for four years now, on my second tub depending how clean the carpet is i compound before qualifying (and am good for the rest of the day) or before each heat. work just like paragon
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:24 PM   #30275
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Something we used for foam carpet racing way back in the jurassic period (1979-80) was Teac rubber cleaner. It's still available under the name Tascam Rubber Cleaner and Conditioner. You have to find a place that sells studio recording equipment to find it. It's primary use is cleaning the residues off the pinch rollers of tape recording equipment and keeping the rubber rollers from getting brittle with age. I got my last can of the stuff at a musical instrument store in Arlington just west of the Fry's by 20 and Matlock. It might have been "Guitar Center" but I'm not sure of the name. The place had a section full of studio equipment. Still have most of it left, just don't know where the heck I put it...

Worked REALLY well back then (Paragon hadn't been invented yet)

One thing tho... this stuff truly stinks... No wintergreen smell in it, just pure nastiness. Some guys I know gag from a whiff of this stuff. The best way I ever found to convince a non-Paragon track to get with the program was to bust out a can of this stuff and use it for a couple of race days.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:51 PM   #30276
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wow, there are people who hate Paragon?
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:05 AM   #30277
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Not after they get a whiff of the Tascam, I guarantee it.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:19 AM   #30278
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Long live Paragon! Just don't get it on your jimmie right before the main. Oh yea, that's another thread.

I am getting dangerously close to releasing an update MS3 kit. I have been running a crew of 6 or so cars in the NW with the new b/l rear ends and they have been great. There has been a bunch of fuss over whether its worth it or not to truly balance the rear pod. A simple question: why not? It's been worth the effort as far as I can tell. The motor will fall out the top. I can solder up in the pod without taking it apart. Something fresh not too many have seen before is the dual t-bar mounts! You can use Asc t-bars and a C12 variant t-bar which is shorter. Why do this? Unless you can test at each track with both t-bars, you will never know how good it can be. With one rear end that will take both bars, it makes the process pretty quick to find out. One bar can transition just a little bit better on a smooth track while the other gets through a rougher track better. The car will be offered with all the proprietary carbon parts, short t-bar, blue screw hardware, bumper, instructions, stickers and set up sheets. The update kit is not listed on the website yet, but I'll get to it soon. Oh, and I still have the molded tub!

Brian
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:09 AM   #30279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Anyone try this on carpet? Our carpet track is indoors and 6 feet away is an indoor off-road track. We get all kinds of dust on the carpet . . .
Andrew, actually i did try it and got laughed at for doing it till Tim tried it about 2 years ago at the Texas State Championships. It kept the tire alittle cleaner.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:53 AM   #30280
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actually the answer is, that tim and I tried it and as long as you do not get off line, it works great. it does keep the traction compound in the tires a little longer. the problem is I am not sure I have seen anyone able to stay on a line that is only about 1 foot wide around the whole track. even a little off line and the tire cakes with dirt, that does not wear off in a lap or 2. once dirt gets on tires with lotion, you are done for
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:04 AM   #30281
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actually the answer is, that tim and I tried it and as long as you do not get off line, it works great. it does keep the traction compound in the tires a little longer. the problem is I am not sure I have seen anyone able to stay on a line that is only about 1 foot wide around the whole track. even a little off line and the tire cakes with dirt, that does not wear off in a lap or 2. once dirt gets on tires with lotion, you are done for
Hmm, Maybe I'll try it . . .
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:19 AM   #30282
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Long live Paragon! Just don't get it on your jimmie right before the main. Oh yea, that's another thread.

I am getting dangerously close to releasing an update MS3 kit. I have been running a crew of 6 or so cars in the NW with the new b/l rear ends and they have been great. There has been a bunch of fuss over whether its worth it or not to truly balance the rear pod. A simple question: why not? It's been worth the effort as far as I can tell. The motor will fall out the top. I can solder up in the pod without taking it apart. Something fresh not too many have seen before is the dual t-bar mounts! You can use Asc t-bars and a C12 variant t-bar which is shorter. Why do this? Unless you can test at each track with both t-bars, you will never know how good it can be. With one rear end that will take both bars, it makes the process pretty quick to find out. One bar can transition just a little bit better on a smooth track while the other gets through a rougher track better. The car will be offered with all the proprietary carbon parts, short t-bar, blue screw hardware, bumper, instructions, stickers and set up sheets. The update kit is not listed on the website yet, but I'll get to it soon. Oh, and I still have the molded tub!

Brian
Is the lower pod plate fully compliant with regular IRS style pods? Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:20 AM   #30283
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Hmm, Maybe I'll try it . . .
yup, you do. it worked ok when we had touring car guys, the "groove" is much wider, but with only 1/12 and wgt the groove is pretty tight.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:10 AM   #30284
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Anyone try this on carpet? Our carpet track is indoors and 6 feet away is an indoor off-road track. We get all kinds of dust on the carpet . . .

Interesting thats exactly the issue I have with the closest carpet track. The first two times out the car is a dust bowl when you pull it off and then as the carpet gets more runs the dust is moved/picked up off the groove. But you get off the groove and your dead. If you try the lotion please post your results, I've not tried that on carpet so I'm courious to see your results.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:50 AM   #30285
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Is the lower pod plate fully compliant with regular IRS style pods? Thanks!
The motor bulkheads are CRC's #3340 from the popular GenX series. Two get used which produces a true rectangular bolt pattern on the bottom plate. The IRS parts do not bolt up the same way..... it's a left over pattern from the 80's.
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