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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2009, 02:32 PM   #30226
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He means behind the caster block...typically we refer to the shim position relative to the caster block.
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Old 01-06-2009, 03:22 PM   #30227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Yes, I haven't run gray-lows yet, but I liked the way yellows ran. I just couldn't keep the sidewalls intact for more than two heats.
I have that same issue with the yellows, they are very good to drive stock with... better than the Grays, but they are a bit soft on shore and seem to shed the sidewalls pretty easy. When you guys glue the sides of your tires what do you use CA? I found all that does is break up and take larger chunks with it. I was pondering trying to cap the sidesa bit under the actual tread surface with Contact Cement and see how that holds up.

Dunno... getting tired of chunks even with no one punching into the back of me.
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Old 01-06-2009, 03:36 PM   #30228
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
I have that same issue with the yellows, they are very good to drive stock with... better than the Grays, but they are a bit soft on shore and seem to shed the sidewalls pretty easy. When you guys glue the sides of your tires what do you use CA? I found all that does is break up and take larger chunks with it. I was pondering trying to cap the sidesa bit under the actual tread surface with Contact Cement and see how that holds up.

Dunno... getting tired of chunks even with no one punching into the back of me.
I kinda remember hearing that the old dirt oval guys use to silocon there foam tires? Maybe a thined shoe goo or silocon on the side wall to hold it all together ?

DK
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:09 PM   #30229
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I've been using the Losi blue tire glue. It dries with a glossy finish and is somewhat think and slower drying so it doesn't really absorb into the foam. It just builds a thick layer of CA that is difficult to crack IMHO. the only down side is getting it off once you've worn down to the point where the glue is right at the height of the sidewall. Its a pain to file off and you lose traction if you don't. If you try and only glue a little ways up the side wall (like maybe 1-2 mm on a 46 mm tire), the full protection from chunkage is also reduced. Its a trade off, but still is beter than chunking a tire after one run and no board taps.
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:10 PM   #30230
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I kinda remember hearing that the old dirt oval guys use to silocon there foam tires? Maybe a thined shoe goo or silocon on the side wall to hold it all together ?

DK

Ooooh, I like that idea! I had all sorts of trouble yesterday using CA. Seems like I had to reapply after every couple of runs as the CA would get brittle and flake off in pieces. The silocon would be more flexible. Will have to try that!
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:48 PM   #30231
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Default b/l pod for the ff07

Hey trips, make sure when you put your b/l pod together that you check you center to hub distance on each side we've found that you usually need a extra shim on the hub side.
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:08 PM   #30232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius View Post
Shouldn't that be the other way round? Normally for me less caster (more shims behind the arm) gives better steering into the corner and less on throttle out of corner steering.
I should have said "shims behind the front of the arm right there... Less caster (kingpin more vertical) does indeed improve entry steer and reduces exit steer in my experience. Thanks for catching it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
He means behind the caster block...typically we refer to the shim position relative to the caster block.
Thanks InpG, I really need to work on proofreading, I did indeed mean the shims behind the mount, not the arm... shims back = more caster, shims forward = less caster.
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Last edited by Trips; 01-06-2009 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:21 PM   #30233
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Where did you get the pod plates for brushless?
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:03 PM   #30234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I've been using the Losi blue tire glue. It dries with a glossy finish and is somewhat think and slower drying so it doesn't really absorb into the foam. It just builds a thick layer of CA that is difficult to crack IMHO. the only down side is getting it off once you've worn down to the point where the glue is right at the height of the sidewall. Its a pain to file off and you lose traction if you don't. If you try and only glue a little ways up the side wall (like maybe 1-2 mm on a 46 mm tire), the full protection from chunkage is also reduced. Its a trade off, but still is beter than chunking a tire after one run and no board taps.
+1 for Losi Blue Tire CA -- the small tubes are great -- just make sure you clean the unused glue out of the bottle otherwise it is time to buy another bottle.

I have an interesting and expensive solution to the Yellow rear problem. I buy a lot of sets at once (your going to use them anyway - your local hobby store might cut you a deal when you buy in BULK) and just swap rear tires each heat. I run my tires large at 44.5mm or small at 33.7mm. I then re-true the sets that survived their runs and re-match up sets that didn't survive the last run.

I cannot wait to try a Jaco grey-low model that I hear is coming....
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:26 PM   #30235
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Originally Posted by RCGaryK View Post
Running on low to medium bite carpet. I know some guys are running purple fronts and white rears but most are running Double Pink/Pink. I think the idea of the Grey-low is interesting. In theory the grey should help prevent the foam from being pulled from the wheel without having to CA it nearly as much, plus it should roll through the corner a little more efficiently as the tire should "slide" a little more instead of gripping and hogging it down.

The grey-low CRC work excellent. I run the black/gray-low combo on my link car and it works great.

Another side effect of the grey-low is they dont "cone" out (the outer edge doesnt wear out faster then the inner edge), so I havnt had the need to true any of them.

Shawn.
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:50 PM   #30236
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Ooooh, I like that idea! I had all sorts of trouble yesterday using CA. Seems like I had to reapply after every couple of runs as the CA would get brittle and flake off in pieces. The silocon would be more flexible. Will have to try that!
There is a product on the market for RC usage (at least there was 3 years ago) called fender mender. It was a liquid shoo goo substance made for bodies to prevent cracking but we used it for awhile to put a flexible area on the sidewalls of foam tires. It would be way easier to use then shoo goo in my opinion. Brian Bodine of Slapmaster fame was the world champion in fender mender applying. His tires looked factory professional. Maybe he has a picture that he can post of a tire done up with the stuff. You should look this product up SteveL, its perfect for what you are talking about.

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Old 01-06-2009, 07:41 PM   #30237
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Where did you get the pod plates for brushless?
I just emailed Jari, sent a paypal, and the parts came a couple days later.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:49 PM   #30238
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I have wondered if the Ca didn't cause more problems than it helped. All of my tires seem to want to chunk out on the sidewalls. I wonder if they were beveled more while they were trued.....?
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:03 PM   #30239
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For those that don't have tire peeling issues and CA the edges, how much are you rounding or beveling the foam and are you buffing the edges so the CA is not all the way to the edge? Mine have been wearing the foam quicker than the layer of CA which ends up forming a sharp edge of CA to grab and chunk. My theory is that the more square the foam edge is the easier it is to grab and peel. If the foam was rounded a little more, it would alow the tire to slide a little instead of grabbing. Your thoughts? Any close up pics of tire profiles that you've had good luck with?

I do think it would be important to get both tires rounded the same or the car would react differently each way.
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:15 PM   #30240
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I think I am going away from using CA and a do little more beveling. Mine feel rough after putting the CA on. Almost like a carpet snag invitation....
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