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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-02-2009, 01:17 AM   #30151
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Happy New Year and may ALL your diffs be like non-slip buttah!
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Old 01-02-2009, 09:10 AM   #30152
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anyone here have a 1/12th r5 or bmi db12 for sale, please let me know. its time that this nitro guy gets his hands on one.
Matt Bell
Mugen MRX5 Ae R5.2 X6^3 M11x All powered by Speedtech Rc
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Old 01-02-2009, 09:14 AM   #30153
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Default 1/12

yea i got one !!! hey son!
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:59 PM   #30154
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Can anyone tell me where to find crimpers and terminals for servo plugs?
Will Molex crimpers work?
I want to make my servo, esc, and transponder leads shorter.
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:03 PM   #30155
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Send a message via AIM to brians11

Originally Posted by jph View Post
Can anyone tell me where to find crimpers and terminals for servo plugs?
Will Molex crimpers work?
I want to make my servo, esc, and transponder leads shorter.

Also, www.nexusracing.com has the terminals
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:05 PM   #30156
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Originally Posted by brians11 View Post
Just what I was looking for.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:22 AM   #30157
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HEY--did you install a T-bar conversion on your 12L5? If so (especially if you did so from new) I'd REALLY like to talk to you about buying your standard (link) chassis plate.

PM me with whatcha got!!


Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

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Old 01-03-2009, 08:11 AM   #30158
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Default 1/12 MUGENS

Hi guys
just thought id show u my 2x mugen 1/12 scale cars , they are actually for sale
and work really well on low traction tracks, no tweak screws here ,when u nail
it they go dead straight every time!
The packs are held in by a brace which is tightened by one screw
2x chassis
1x original unpainted body
plenty of spares
original box and instruction manual
$350 AUD + POSTAGE(excludes radio gear ,electronics ,motor)
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-p1050026.jpg   1/12 forum-p1050013.jpg   1/12 forum-p1050015.jpg   1/12 forum-p1050033.jpg   1/12 forum-p1050008.jpg  

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Old 01-03-2009, 08:28 AM   #30159
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DAMN, those are NICE!!

I wish I had the funds to spare right now, I'd buy them up in a heartbeat...
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:58 AM   #30160
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Default MUGENS

The best thing about these cars are,they r 22 years old!
U should see the look on other racers faces when u kick butt with them!
especially when they r using the latest chassis.
i think they r MUGENS first ever rc cars!
If any of u guys were racing 1/12 20 years ago u may remember these rockets
They have a double deck chassis and a gear diff
The amount of traction they produce on a low traction track is incredible
Even full throttle from a standstill on a dusty road with a 10x2 ,the car
always goes DEAD STRAIGHT I have never seen another 1/12 do this!

Anyway... pm me if anyone is interested
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:05 AM   #30161
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Default 1/12 mugens

more pics
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:28 AM   #30162
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Default mugen

cool car ,coming from nitro (mugen cars only) i never though mugen made an electric car ... i wish they would .. all the other nitro company do!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:57 PM   #30163
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Here is the Silva shock:


It is almost identical to the Hot Bodies shock except: The shock body is a tiny bit shorter. The shock shaft is about 5mm shorter. It has studs on both ends for ball cups.
Does anyone know if the shock shaft on the new Silva HPS2 is the same diameter as the Hot Bodies shock? I just measured a Hot Bodies shaft and it has a diameter of 1.95mm. I had some issues when breaking the threaded end of the shock end cap on the Hot Bodies. It would be great to replace these end caps w/ the very inexpensive Silva model.
FJ / ROAR #2-122945 / MaxRotation FPV Drone Racing / Shop@ Awesomatix USA / Wild Turbo Fan / Mon-Tech Racing / RocheRC USA / Side Piece /
LRP / John's BSR Tires / TeamEAM / TQ Wire / R1 / Team Scream / PCR / MIX
RacerLog wiki Awesomatix A700 / 2wd offroad 4 life
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:44 PM   #30164
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I have a tekin 17.5 brushless motor. I was wondering does ceramic bearing make the motor more free or does it matter. My motor is fine, but I have heard ceramics would make it even more free. Does anyone really know the answer.

Race Hard baby!
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:48 PM   #30165
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Default track surface

ok! we have a new track in are area , indoors the surface is concrete that painted /sealer . whats happening is after about 3 or 4 min. my pancar starts to push .. full sause rear 1/3 sause frt ... any ideals. before the the 3 or4min.mark the car is good. running stock 27t.
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