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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-30-2008, 11:54 PM   #30136
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Well all my goodies have finally arrived and I'm in process of building my DB12RR conversion kit Thanks to OD for the great 16awg wire I got from him I also wanted to mention something I haven't seen posted here yet that I picked up. CRC has a new flexy sensor harness wire...Man this is a very flexy sensor wire...it's a noodle! Definitely worth taking a look at for 1/12th racers if you haven't already.
Wondering if it's the same as the TQ sensor wire , just got some from Stormer and same thing it's like a noodle.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:31 AM   #30137
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Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
Like this?
EXACTLY like that... Sah-WEET!!
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Last edited by Trips; 12-31-2008 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:52 AM   #30138
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Thanks for the shock and wire clarification gentlemen, that's a great help!
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:14 AM   #30139
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Originally Posted by ffactory666 View Post
Wondering if it's the same as the TQ sensor wire , just got some from Stormer and same thing it's like a noodle.
Might be...didn't know TQ had one too now...cool
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:58 AM   #30140
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I beg to differ that it "depends". I've tried the smaller wires. Anybody know the gauge of the wire that brush shunts are made of? Didn't slow down brushed motors any...

and doesn't electricity travel on the outside of wires? So low count 16 or high strand count 18. hmmm. I might be all wet on that "how electricity flows" thing. I haven't actually cared to look or remember for many years. I go with what looks the coolest. sad ain't it.

<---just being argumentative, but it does "depend". It's not a permanent installation, it's six hits with the soldering iron and 12" of wire. Try it!

Try it wtih both wires.
You are correct, Bob! Electricity only flows on the surface of the wire so the more strands the better, to a point. Once the strand count is so high that it starts to impede rear pod movement, add weight, interfere with body, etc. you reach a point of diminished return. But of course, looks and neatness also counts!!!
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:40 AM   #30141
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Somebody correct me if I am wrong but isn't fact that larger wire has less resistance than smaller wire? If that is true and the fact that I am using wire that is less than 4 inches long, is 12 gauge wire going to be that much better than 14 or 16?? I have used 12 and 14 in my cars and have not viably seen a difference.
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:47 AM   #30142
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thanks for the info on the wire, i suppose ill go ahead and try it. just wanted to get an idea... i wonder what difference it will make if any.

im pretty sure i will not notice the difference, im not exactly a top notch 12th runner, lol... probably ran one twice in the last two years.
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:39 PM   #30143
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Electricity does not conduct just on the surfaces of wires.

This is from http://www.eskimo.com/~billb/miscon/eleca.html There are a ton of electrical myths busted in that page.

Quote:
ELECTRIC CHARGES ONLY FLOW ON THE SURFACES OF WIRES?

Wrong.

During a Direct Current in a simple circuit, the flow of charges takes place throughout the whole wire. The flow is not just on the surface. If the level of current is very high, then the wire will become hot, and the current will heat up the inside of the wire as well as its surface. Thin hollow pipes make poor conductors; their electrical resistance is too high. To avoid overheating the metal we should use thick solid bars instead.

There is a persistent 'rumor' that the path for flowing charges is entirely on the surface of metals. This mistaken idea probably comes about through a misunderstanding of the nature of electric charge. After all, when electric charge is deposited onto a metal object, it distributes itself over the surface of the object. It makes sense that, since charge is only on the surface of metals, a flow of charge must take place only on the surface of metals, right? Unfortunately, the word "charge" refers to two different things. When electric charge is placed on a metal object, the added charge is just a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of charge already in the neutral metal. "Uncharged" wires contain an enormous amount of charge inside, even though they may have "zero charge" on average. Are you confused yet?


All metals contain huge amounts of movable electrons. During an electric current it is these electrons which flow. However, each electron is near a proton, and so the metal is said to be "uncharged." In a wire, electric current is a flow of "uncharged charge". Weird but true. Now if we were to place EXTRA charge upon a wire, that would be like pouring a teacup into the ocean. The "water level" would rise a tiny bit. Yet extra charges on a wire create a very noticeable electrical imbalance (they attract lint, deflect electroscopes, make sparks, etc.)


It isn't so strange that we might accidentally assume that the extra charges are the only charges on the wire. Yet in reality, electric currents happen in the "ocean" of the wire, and the extra "teacup" on the surface has little effect on the charge flow. The charge flow (current) is not just on the surface, and the whole "ocean" flows.


A second source of misunderstandings: during high frequency AC, the value of electric current in a conductor is higher at the surface than it is within the bulk of the metal. This is called the "skin effect." It is not very important for thin household wires at 60Hz. Perhaps some people heard about the Skin Effect but did not realize that it only works for very thick wires or for high frequency AC. At extremely high frequencies, the charges in a thin "skin" on the surface of large wires are the charges which move. For circuits involving high-current and high-frequency such as radio transmitters, it makes sense to use copper pipes as conductors. All the charge flow is on the surface of the conductors, so use inexpensive hollow conductors. All the heating takes place on the surface, and not deep within the metal.
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:49 PM   #30144
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You know...I just posted that but this really refers to DC and low frequency AC circuits.

BL motors are pretty much AC and operate at pretty high switching frequencies. A 4.5BL can turn over 60K rpm at the end of a straight. To drive the rotor at that rpm the poles in the stator have to change polarity at least 1000 times per second or 1000Hz (1kHz).
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:03 PM   #30145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
You know...I just posted that but this really refers to DC and low frequency AC circuits.

BL motors are pretty much AC and operate at pretty high switching frequencies. A 4.5BL can turn over 60K rpm at the end of a straight. To drive the rotor at that rpm the poles in the stator have to change polarity at least 1000 times per second or 1000Hz (1kHz).
I believe that 1kHz is still considered "low frequency" in the discussion above. High frequency is in the megahertz and gigahertz range.
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:48 PM   #30146
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Don't forget that the major reason to have multiple stranded wire is for flexibility. Take a solid 16AWG THHN wire and see how it flexes, Not!
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:15 PM   #30147
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I'm gonna look up skin effect and see what I can find out...
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Last edited by Trips; 12-31-2008 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:22 PM   #30148
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Not sad at all... I'm not as fast as was fifteen years ago, but my cars look cooler... and if you can't go fast... LOOK fast!
Man that fits me too well!!
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:23 PM   #30149
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This table comes from a wikipedia article on skin effect... Carbon Joe is correect. Apparently even at 100khz switching rates the skin effect wouldn't apply to us, the thin strands in the wire we use would pretty much eliminate it.

I feel faster already!

In copper, the skin depth at various frequencies is shown below.
frequency d
60 Hz 8.47 mm
10 kHz 0.66 mm
100 kHz 0.21 mm
1 MHz 66 Ám
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:11 PM   #30150
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Its a new years eve Miracle!!!!!!! I just built a diff that was smooth as glass Never been able to do that before

happy new year to all the 1/12 scale racers
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