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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-30-2008, 06:50 PM   #30121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
12ga is only good for the negative battery wire from the ESC. I would recommend picking up some 16ga TQ Racing Products wire (now being sold by Team CRC too) and using it for all of the motor leads and the battery positive wire from the ESC.

Ok, thanks.
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:51 PM   #30122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
IMO it is. The performance gains from using 12ga wire does not off set the handy cap 12ga wire causes in both weight gain and more importantly, restricted rear pod movement. I do use 18ga from the speed control to the batteries but 16ga from the speed control to the motor.

If you look at all of the top 1/12th drivers around the world, they have pretty much all moved to 16ga wire.
CORRECTION: I should have said 14ga from the speed control to the batteries.
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:52 PM   #30123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Couple of quick questions for you 12th scale guru's:

1. What is everyone's favourite 18g silicone wire?


Thanks in advance!
Hey Adam,

16 gauge is the way to go for 12th, just like others have pointed out.

This is some very high quality wire used by the Guys at CRC, Donny Lia and many others.......http://www.tqracing.com/16%20gauge.htm

They also have killer sensor leads for brushless motors, by far the most flexible I have encountered and they have the insulation crimped as well as the wire so they are very durable......http://www.tqracing.com/sensor.htm

These products are also available from CRC at www.teamcrc.com

Mitch
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:53 PM   #30124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
CORRECTION: I should have said 14ga from the speed control to the batteries.
Thank you.

Where can I get Odpurple's wire?
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:58 PM   #30125
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I believe his site is under reconstruction so it is probably easiest just to PM here at RC Tech.
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:02 PM   #30126
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I believe his site is under reconstruction so it is probably easiest just to PM here at RC Tech.
Cool, does he have bearings also?
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:33 PM   #30127
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Quote:
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Cool, does he have bearings also?
Yes, but ceramics only
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:51 PM   #30128
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question...

i have some decent wire i got from another place, but its 18ga. says its "high-strand count copper wire"... would that be big enough to use to the motor running the 3.7 lipo/13.5 combo? or would i be better off running something else?
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:07 PM   #30129
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18g is too thin....go with the OD Racing wire, It's the best
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:18 PM   #30130
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Originally Posted by P2 View Post
18g is too thin....go with the OD Racing wire, It's the best
I beg to differ that it "depends". I've tried the smaller wires. Anybody know the gauge of the wire that brush shunts are made of? Didn't slow down brushed motors any...

and doesn't electricity travel on the outside of wires? So low count 16 or high strand count 18. hmmm. I might be all wet on that "how electricity flows" thing. I haven't actually cared to look or remember for many years. I go with what looks the coolest. sad ain't it.

<---just being argumentative, but it does "depend". It's not a permanent installation, it's six hits with the soldering iron and 12" of wire. Try it!

Try it wtih both wires.
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:46 PM   #30131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
I beg to differ that it "depends". I've tried the smaller wires. Anybody know the gauge of the wire that brush shunts are made of? Didn't slow down brushed motors any...
I don't know how true it is, but Big Jim Greenemeyer always used to say that the shunts were good for ten amps or so, and that the majority of the current going into the motor was carried through the brush hoods right into the surface of the brush. I know I once raced a car for a whole race day with a broken shunt and didn't notice until I took the motor out to cut it before the main... I was suprised it ran at all without that shunt...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
and doesn't electricity travel on the outside of wires? So low count 16 or high strand count 18. hmmm. I might be all wet on that "how electricity flows" thing. I haven't actually cared to look or remember for many years.
It's known as the "skin effect" and if I remember right it was said to apply more to high frequency alternating current... I suppose the high switching rates of modern ESC's would make it apply to us, but I don't know for certain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
I go with what looks the coolest. sad ain't it.
Not sad at all... I'm not as fast as was fifteen years ago, but my cars look cooler... and if you can't go fast... LOOK fast!
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:49 PM   #30132
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Knowing you Wes, I can guarantee you won't feel the difference between 16 and 18 gauge of the same quality, much less high quality 18 gauge vs average 16 gauge. Along the lines of Bob's post, the solder joints we create at the PCB on the esc and the motor tabs on our current BL motors create much higher resistance than 18 gauge wire IMHO.
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:53 PM   #30133
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Originally Posted by Trips View Post
... I'm not as fast as was fifteen years ago, but my cars look cooler... and if you can't go fast... LOOK fast!
Like this?
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:55 PM   #30134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
I beg to differ that it "depends". I've tried the smaller wires. Anybody know the gauge of the wire that brush shunts are made of? Didn't slow down brushed motors any...

and doesn't electricity travel on the outside of wires? So low count 16 or high strand count 18. hmmm. I might be all wet on that "how electricity flows" thing. I haven't actually cared to look or remember for many years. I go with what looks the coolest. sad ain't it.

<---just being argumentative, but it does "depend". It's not a permanent installation, it's six hits with the soldering iron and 12" of wire. Try it!

Try it with both wires.
You are correct that the current flows on the surface. More strands is better because there's more surface area. But the trade off with a high strand 18 gauge is that the voltage drop is greater with the 18.
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:09 PM   #30135
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Well all my goodies have finally arrived and I'm in process of building my DB12RR conversion kit Thanks to OD for the great 16awg wire I got from him I also wanted to mention something I haven't seen posted here yet that I picked up. CRC has a new flexy sensor harness wire...Man this is a very flexy sensor wire...it's a noodle! Definitely worth taking a look at for 1/12th racers if you haven't already.
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