R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-26-2008, 08:05 PM   #30076
Tech Fanatic
 
Dasmopar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 966
Send a message via AIM to Dasmopar
Default

I'm prolly going to pick up a new 1/12 scale car in Jan. and build it for stock class. I'm going to be 35 so I can run masters now at Cleveland. If you had no parts, and no loyalty to a brand which car would you buy? I've had AE, Yokomo, CRC , and even delta 12th scale cars in the past.

As of right now I like the Serpent S120 but my local hobby store is not hooked up with them as of yet. I was also wondering if the serpent has it's own make of wheel or is it the same mounting as a Jaco type wheel?

Please discuss.

Thanks

Lon Burling
Dasmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 08:08 PM   #30077
Tech Master
 
TeamCarnage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Highland In. USA
Posts: 1,466
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Tony- the "purist" prolly will say that we'll lose some precise feel with that unit. Food for thought before you do your install... See ya at UG Sunday??
Hope ya had a great XMas!!
TeamCarnage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 01:20 AM   #30078
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
I'm prolly going to pick up a new 1/12 scale car in Jan. and build it for stock class. I'm going to be 35 so I can run masters now at Cleveland. If you had no parts, and no loyalty to a brand which car would you buy? I've had AE, Yokomo, CRC , and even delta 12th scale cars in the past.
If I were looking for a t-bar car, then the Serpent would be the one I'd pick right now. I drive a FF07, very similar to the serpent, but it's not available as a complete kit, just a chassis conversion. If you don't already have a t-bar car to use as a donor, you'll need to get a ton of stuff to complete it. You'd need a complete front end, shock, damper tubes and hardware, antenna mount, t-bar, pivots, and hardware, rear axle, diff, hubs, and all bearings.

The Serpent is a complete kit. A bit spendy, but well worth the $$ from all accounts.

Quote:
As of right now I like the Serpent S120 but my local hobby store is not hooked up with them as of yet. I was also wondering if the serpent has it's own make of wheel or is it the same mounting as a Jaco type wheel?
Serpent did the smart thing and went with standard wheel hardware for the120. You'll be able to use any standard 1/12 wheels.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 05:54 AM   #30079
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 183
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Tony- the "purist" prolly will say that we'll lose some precise feel with that unit. Food for thought before you do your install... See ya at UG Sunday??
Hope ya had a great XMas!!
I was thinking that too but for 4 bucks I may give it a try. I will be at the Track this Sunday.

Tony
under200 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 07:39 AM   #30080
Tech Master
 
TeamCarnage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Highland In. USA
Posts: 1,466
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by under200 View Post
I was thinking that too but for 4 bucks I may give it a try. I will be at the Track this Sunday.

Tony
Notice the wink.. I measured the overall length between the original and the shock with the quick release. They were exactly the same. When the sleeve locks onto the ball stud it has the same movement as stock. You, Marcus,Dave, Kris, Scott, etc... we have to get on the same page and meet at UG or the Track and race.
TeamCarnage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 10:06 AM   #30081
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Notice the wink.. I measured the overall length between the original and the shock with the quick release. They were exactly the same. When the sleeve locks onto the ball stud it has the same movement as stock. You, Marcus,Dave, Kris, Scott, etc... we have to get on the same page and meet at UG or the Track and race.
I'm thinking about checking out Jtec tommorow.
AreCee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 12:18 PM   #30082
Tech Adept
 
OllieRDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Belgium
Posts: 115
Send a message via MSN to OllieRDX
Default

Hi Guys,

I have a question.
i always drive 12th scale modified.
but i go to the EC spec in the netherlands.
So what Spurgears do you run with a 10.5t bl motor

Thanks

Greetings Ollie
OllieRDX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 12:33 PM   #30083
Tech Master
 
Canyon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 8 (91%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OllieRDX View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a question.
i always drive 12th scale modified.
but i go to the EC spec in the netherlands.
So what Spurgears do you run with a 10.5t bl motor

Thanks

Greetings Ollie
88 tooth 64 pitch
Canyon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 12:44 PM   #30084
Tech Master
 
TeamCarnage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Highland In. USA
Posts: 1,466
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Dave- You in Bloomington? You ever been to JTec yet? You'll have fun! Great facility and people. Gonna miss rubbing paint with ya....They have a good 12th turnout. Adams, Morrison and Yau will give ya all you can handle. Travis Wait raced with us at the Track. Tell them guys I said hey.
TeamCarnage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 01:42 PM   #30085
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,602
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
I'm prolly going to pick up a new 1/12 scale car in Jan. and build it for stock class. I'm going to be 35 so I can run masters now at Cleveland. If you had no parts, and no loyalty to a brand which car would you buy? I've had AE, Yokomo, CRC , and even delta 12th scale cars in the past.

As of right now I like the Serpent S120 but my local hobby store is not hooked up with them as of yet. I was also wondering if the serpent has it's own make of wheel or is it the same mounting as a Jaco type wheel?

Please discuss.

Thanks

Lon Burling
The serpent is a sweet looking kit. I looked into that myself before buying a BMI. I think right now if you go with a BMI DB12RR and throw on the CRC prostrut front end you'd have the best of all cars on the market. (even the stock reactive AE front end isnt bad with the goodies they throw in the kit)
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 04:28 PM   #30086
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
The serpent is a sweet looking kit. I looked into that myself before buying a BMI. I think right now if you go with a BMI DB12RR and throw on the CRC prostrut front end you'd have the best of all cars on the market. (even the stock reactive AE front end isnt bad with the goodies they throw in the kit)
I was thinking about the new Asc front end. No more phillips head screws. Then throw the Asc side shock on instead of the Bmi tubes and you have a perfect car.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 07:00 PM   #30087
Tech Champion
 
hanulec's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 8,008
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
I'm prolly going to pick up a new 1/12 scale car in Jan. and build it for stock class. I'm going to be 35 so I can run masters now at Cleveland. If you had no parts, and no loyalty to a brand which car would you buy? I've had AE, Yokomo, CRC , and even delta 12th scale cars in the past.
I'd suggest picking up a car that is winning a lot of races - either nationally or regionally on the same type of surface you will be racing on (carpet or asphalt). Your best bet is to figure out what the 'fast guys' run at your local track. People at your local track will be able to help you better and more effectively and anyone. While your at your local track -- you should buy your car at that track -- you cannot race your new 1/12th on the internet!
__________________
FJ / ROAR #2-122945 / Shop@ Awesomatix USA / Wild Turbo Fan / Mon-Tech Racing / RocheRC USA / Side Piece /
LRP / John's BSR Tires / TeamEAM / TQ Wire / R1 / Team Scream / PCR / MIX
RacerLog wiki Awesomatix A700 / 2wd offroad 4 life
hanulec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 07:22 PM   #30088
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by quietstorm76 View Post
Hey guys, does anyone have pics of a T-bar car running lipo?
My buddy Phil drives one. I'll get a picture of it at the track tomorrow. I'll post it from the track, probably 9 or 9:30 tomorrow morning.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2008, 09:44 PM   #30089
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,602
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I was thinking about the new Asc front end. No more phillips head screws. Then throw the Asc side shock on instead of the Bmi tubes and you have a perfect car.

DK

Unfortunately the new ASC front end cant go on the BMI chassis... it uses small screws and not those big honk'n 8-32 or what ever they are.
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008, 06:28 AM   #30090
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,456
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I was thinking about the new Asc front end. No more phillips head screws. Then throw the Asc side shock on instead of the Bmi tubes and you have a perfect car.DK
CRC sells a four Ti screw kit with allen heads on them. It's on their website. A guy I race with in Cincinatti has them and its really a great item to have.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718961

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Unfortunately the new ASC front end cant go on the BMI chassis... it uses small screws and not those big honk'n 8-32 or what ever they are.

How true. They designed so that you can't even redrill the holes on the chassis, as the new front end screws line up on about half of the original 8-32 screws.
MUDVAYNE is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
X marksthespot
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:04 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0