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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-25-2008, 08:13 PM   #30061
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That's all there is to it Though if you aren't running a GenX the graphite brace will likely not be the right length so you'll have to cut the middle out of it.
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:39 PM   #30062
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I'm not running a GenX, it's an FF07, but Jari made a front brace for the long arm conversion that matches the width of his chassis, so I'm all set there.

One more question... the brace will effectively raise the hingepin mounts a bit... instead of sitting right on the arm, now they'll be at the height of the arm plus the brace... any issues with that?

Ane more I guess... has anyone installed the front brace, but kept the upper arms short and just olet the brace raise the hingepin mount? What effect?
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Old 12-26-2008, 11:39 AM   #30063
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duz, anybody still glue there own foam donuts on there pan car rims ? if yes where do u get the donuts and how is it done .. is there a website that shows a how to? happy new year everybody
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Old 12-26-2008, 12:02 PM   #30064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzuguy View Post
duz, anybody still glue there own foam donuts on there pan car rims ? if yes where do u get the donuts and how is it done .. is there a website that shows a how to? happy new year everybody
It's pretty simple to do yourself. Coat the rim and the inside of the donut with contact cement, let sit for about 15 minutes, dunk both in a small bowl of paint thinner and slide the donut over the rim. Center it up and let it dry until the thinner has evaporated. Kimbrough use to make a molded plastic cone that made putting the donuts on really simple, but not sure if they are still available. I think I saw donuts on Stormers site.

To get the old rubber off the rims, just soak them in paint thinner until the donuts literaly fall off.
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:38 PM   #30065
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leave it to an old guy to tell you how to do that.

you running this sunday Lafara? was thinking about jetting up to carbondale...
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:48 PM   #30066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
It's pretty simple to do yourself. Coat the rim and the inside of the donut with contact cement, let sit for about 15 minutes, dunk both in a small bowl of paint thinner and slide the donut over the rim. Center it up and let it dry until the thinner has evaporated. Kimbrough use to make a molded plastic cone that made putting the donuts on really simple, but not sure if they are still available. I think I saw donuts on Stormers site.

To get the old rubber off the rims, just soak them in paint thinner until the donuts literaly fall off.
Thats the way this old guy does it, I use laquer thinner and contact cement. I used to get my donuts from rc4less and he was the guy I got the plastic cone from. They used to call it a shoe horn in the olden days(back in the 80's). I had to ask the guy at rc4less for one because he didn't have one listed on his web sight.

Check with them, they are great to deal with.

Last edited by OvalDude99; 12-26-2008 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:52 PM   #30067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
It's pretty simple to do yourself. Coat the rim and the inside of the donut with contact cement, let sit for about 15 minutes, dunk both in a small bowl of paint thinner and slide the donut over the rim. Center it up and let it dry until the thinner has evaporated. Kimbrough use to make a molded plastic cone that made putting the donuts on really simple, but not sure if they are still available. I think I saw donuts on Stormers site.

To get the old rubber off the rims, just soak them in paint thinner until the donuts literaly fall off.
Yep thats the best way, I got some donuts form CRC about a yr ago so you could check there also.
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:53 PM   #30068
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Just be careful which rims you use...some of the more modern rims will melt or soften in the lacquer thinner.
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Old 12-26-2008, 04:13 PM   #30069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
leave it to an old guy to tell you how to do that.

you running this sunday Lafara? was thinking about jetting up to carbondale...
Yep, I'll be there. While we are on the topic of tires. how small is too small? I have a ton of tires that are really little and after shaving .080" off the front arms I can run something as small as 41mm/1.61" and still have 4.5mm chassis clearance. And after seeing some guys running the new big rims with virtually no rubber left on them, I'm curious if tires this small will handle OK.
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Old 12-26-2008, 05:23 PM   #30070
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Default glueing tires.

there was a thread on here about a month ago explaining another method of mounting donuts where a guy used slow jet for a more permanent bond. also last i looked stormers had the crc donuts in stock. Kimbrough makes the tire horns for 1/10 and 1/12 wheels. I tried his method seemed to work fine and feel more confident that the adhesive won't come loose.
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:04 PM   #30071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
Have you tried black fronts? I used to run the purple/gray, and could not stand how the car changed during the run. Switched to Black fronts, and the car handles much more consistant during the race now.


Shawn.
I would think that would make the push worse?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Which front spring are you running, and are you using the standard pro-strut front end or do you have the optional long-arm conversion installed?

I like a TON of steering so I usually run the CRC 45 front spring rather than the kit 50's.

Shawn also brought up a good point about the black fronts. I've been to tracks where fronts in the purple/pink family just won't work, and a switch to gray or black fronts REALLY wakes up the car.
I have no clue what front springs are in there now but they are in good shape with just a touch of end play, no pre-load. honestly I have no clue what car it is other than a crc. It has the upper machined delrin a arms with an alum 5 deg block.

Would asc .018 be too soft? Not sure if I could find crc springs around here.

Sounds like black might be the same family of foam as the grey so it should hook up better, not just a super hard tire that I was told it is. Now I have a lilac on there now, is that the same family as purple/pink? Sorry, very new to the foam stuff.



Ok, if I could have 2 or 3 complete sets of diffrent foam for diffrent tracks, what would they be? A natural rubber set and then a synth rubber set ??

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Old 12-26-2008, 07:31 PM   #30072
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Hey guys, does anyone have pics of a T-bar car running lipo?
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Old 12-26-2008, 07:37 PM   #30073
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The other week I saw a "quick-release" rear ball cup on a Carpet knife shock. It was obviously aftermarket and my friend who had the car got it 2nd hand and had no idea who made this trick part. Any ideas? I loved the idea of just sliding a spring loaded collar to remove the shock to toss a battery in. Sure beat using pliers all the time.

Tony
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Old 12-26-2008, 07:52 PM   #30074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by under200 View Post
The other week I saw a "quick-release" rear ball cup on a Carpet knife shock. It was obviously aftermarket and my friend who had the car got it 2nd hand and had no idea who made this trick part. Any ideas? I loved the idea of just sliding a spring loaded collar to remove the shock to toss a battery in. Sure beat using pliers all the time.

Tony
I picked one up the other day and I think it is made my Sullivan (they make a bunch of RC aircraft stuff)...I'm not at home at the moment but I'll double check when I get back.

-rocky b

EDIT: just found it on the Sullivan website...scroll down a bit (locking sleeve ball joints) http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:00 PM   #30075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
I picked one up the other day and I think it is made my Sullivan (they make a bunch of RC aircraft stuff)...I'm not at home at the moment but I'll double check when I get back.

-rocky b

EDIT: just found it on the Sullivan website...scroll down a bit (locking sleeve ball joints) http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm
Thanks.

Tony
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