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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-23-2008, 07:38 AM   #30046
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And I can get within .5 of a sec lap times from the big boys
Yea but it's getting that last half a second that will drive ya broke!
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:57 AM   #30047
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not really.. I am just starting out and I bought one of the "top" guys old card and I have done alot of research mostly on this site (way to go guys) anyways and I have just started slow. learned how to drive (coming from MT racing this is totally different) But I am getting better and as long as I can still improve even if it is only my Standard Deviation.

Getting the hang on the car and how it reacts to small changes is the key!!! to racing 1/12 scale. as afar as I'm concerned if your car is not setup correctly it really does not matter how well you drive you will not be able to improve.

But this being said the hardest thing in Racing is the mental preparation and calmness needed to get these speeding bullets around the track . I have seen it too many times when a top driver has a crash even a minor one then tires to catch up but continues to make mistakes after mistakes eventually loosing time and money due to broken parts.

I have tried to stay positive and keep in mind this this is a hobby and is supposed to be fun.

Wow that was a long ramble.

Cheery guys and thanks for all the help and advice
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:11 AM   #30048
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Default Tekin redline 10.5bl

Just purchased a redline 10.5bl
I run a Corally sp12x 4 cell with a an RS esc.Suggestions needed for roll out would be appreciated.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:14 AM   #30049
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Just purchased a redline 10.5bl
I run a Corally sp12x 4 cell with a an RS esc.Suggestions needed for roll out would be appreciated.
I ran a sp 10.5 in a rev 5 and was around a 61mm rollout.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:15 AM   #30050
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All the new BMI Big Wheel pinions 45T-60T are online and for sale now.

www.bmiracing.com
What's up Adrian? Do you know if you guys are going to make a whole line of pinions or just stick to the big sizes?
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:32 PM   #30051
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What parts are needed to convert the two bolt axle on the associated 12LC to the current three bolt? Thanks
You could fix it by buying my complete spare Niftech axle/hub set up and be done.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:00 PM   #30052
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Sounds like you ought to be close. The 5 degree blocks are a good place to start, and a shim on each side is also a good start. You might want to get a set of the 10 degree blocks to try as well... If you find you have a lot of initial steering into the corner, then a push on the exit, you can move both shims to the back... if you have little initial steer, but plenty at the exit, move the shims forward... if you have a good balance between initial and exit steering, but need less steering in general, you could go to the red shock spring (it's two pounds lighter than the copper) or lighter on the side springs... If you want more steering in general, you could try the ten degree blocks for the upper arm...

Another tire combo I like is Parma grey rear/coral front...
Ok, I got to race the CRC last night. Started with Pruple front and grey rear. These greys will not let go !! Had a pretty bad push. Put the silver shock spring on and it helped but not enough. More dope on the front and again helped but wore off too soon. So I got a set of lilac for the front thinking the frt tire was way too hard.

It got better and gave me enough steering for the first 2 mins to take TQ by a sec. I thought about going to the harder side springs but it was the main so I just went a little heavier on the frt dope. The car still has a push to it but it was drivable for the main. Had a pretty good run till the last 3 mins. Started to lose steering and 2nd cought up to me. He got by me on the last couple corners before the line. Great race either way. Had a blast.

I found out later that he was doping the full front tire. Not sure if I like that but I am getting a build up on the outside of the front tire.

You think the harder side spring would help enough or do I need to soften the frt tire again ??? Or maybe 10deg blocks with a stiffer side spring? The damper tubes are a little slow so cant go any stiffer there. It is a pretty big chunk of steering needed, but mostly it needs to last the whole race if that helps.

Thanks
DK
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:44 PM   #30053
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to part time,
it's not much of a surprise that your CRC car would push with a silver shock spring (unless you are talking about the super stiff CRC silver one). The regular silver spring is much too soft for a link car. Tbar cars usually are run with the olive or the silver spring. But link cars are typically run with at least the gold spring and most guys use a red (which is at least 2 steps stiffer than silver). some guys even go up to a copper center spring, although that much never seems to work for me. If you need to dope your entire front in order to get enough steering, that's an indicator that your chassis setup is crying out for more mechanical steering. Perhaps you might want to try a red shock spring and white side springs (which is the typical combo for the genX). Other ways to get more steering......go to 45 front springs (one step lighter than the kit), limit the shock length to reduce the droop (overtravel) to about 1mm max when measured at the back of he main chassis. add some toe out up front. increase camber to about 1.5 or max of 2 degrees. go up to red side springs. Use something akin to 20,000 in the tubes (I like the blue cap extra heavy CRC stuff). Each of these things will add steering. But first I'd suggest that you try the red spring and the 1mm droop. That should help alot and should get you in the ballpark.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:06 PM   #30054
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to part time,
it's not much of a surprise that your CRC car would push with a silver shock spring (unless you are talking about the super stiff CRC silver one). The regular silver spring is much too soft for a link car. Tbar cars usually are run with the olive or the silver spring. But link cars are typically run with at least the gold spring and most guys use a red (which is at least 2 steps stiffer than silver). some guys even go up to a copper center spring, although that much never seems to work for me. If you need to dope your entire front in order to get enough steering, that's an indicator that your chassis setup is crying out for more mechanical steering. Perhaps you might want to try a red shock spring and white side springs (which is the typical combo for the genX). Other ways to get more steering......go to 45 front springs (one step lighter than the kit), limit the shock length to reduce the droop (overtravel) to about 1mm max when measured at the back of he main chassis. add some toe out up front. increase camber to about 1.5 or max of 2 degrees. go up to red side springs. Use something akin to 20,000 in the tubes (I like the blue cap extra heavy CRC stuff). Each of these things will add steering. But first I'd suggest that you try the red spring and the 1mm droop. That should help alot and should get you in the ballpark.
Sorry, for got to mention it was a crc shock springs.

I agree with you that its crying for more mechanical front grip. Hence the softer front tire. Thinking about going softer again. Plus it would help with the tires wearing closer to the same frt to back.

It did feel like it needed more inital steering. I had around 1 to 1.5mm of droop in the pod. Was thinking about making it bigger. Isnt that supposta help with inital ??

DK
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:14 PM   #30055
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What's up Adrian? Do you know if you guys are going to make a whole line of pinions or just stick to the big sizes?

Just big ones for now but if the demand is there we may make normal sizes.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:57 PM   #30056
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Part Time- I find it odd you have this trouble with those tires. This season I have run purple/gray almost exclusively (13.5 and stock) and I always get a little push at the start of the run and then it frees up as the race progresses. How long are you compounding your tires for? With Jack I usually soak them as long as possible and Paragon for at least 20 mins (unless the track has very high grip).
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:38 PM   #30057
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gubbs3...Lets see, take the tires off and pull the pack out, defuz, check tires and put them back on and redope......maybe 30 mins ??? As long as possible really.

The tires are new and tall. Think that might make a diffrents ?? Back had 3 runs on them and the front had 1 before the main. Maybe it gets looser as they get shorter ?

Oh btw, I was resetting up the car and found that I only had .5 mm of pod droop. I just reset to 1mm.

Im sure is just aero's and rubber. The rubber is close but I have no idea what the body is.

DK
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Old 12-25-2008, 04:10 PM   #30058
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Part Time- I find it odd you have this trouble with those tires. This season I have run purple/gray almost exclusively (13.5 and stock) and I always get a little push at the start of the run and then it frees up as the race progresses. How long are you compounding your tires for? With Jack I usually soak them as long as possible and Paragon for at least 20 mins (unless the track has very high grip).
Have you tried black fronts? I used to run the purple/gray, and could not stand how the car changed during the run. Switched to Black fronts, and the car handles much more consistant during the race now.


Shawn.
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Old 12-25-2008, 04:33 PM   #30059
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gubbs3...Lets see, take the tires off and pull the pack out, defuz, check tires and put them back on and redope......maybe 30 mins ??? As long as possible really.

The tires are new and tall. Think that might make a diffrents ?? Back had 3 runs on them and the front had 1 before the main. Maybe it gets looser as they get shorter ?

Oh btw, I was resetting up the car and found that I only had .5 mm of pod droop. I just reset to 1mm.

Im sure is just aero's and rubber. The rubber is close but I have no idea what the body is.

DK
Which front spring are you running, and are you using the standard pro-strut front end or do you have the optional long-arm conversion installed?

I like a TON of steering so I usually run the CRC 45 front spring rather than the kit 50's.

Shawn also brought up a good point about the black fronts. I've been to tracks where fronts in the purple/pink family just won't work, and a switch to gray or black fronts REALLY wakes up the car.
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:20 PM   #30060
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Hi all, Happy Hoidays...

I was wondering if anyone knows where to find instructions for converting the CRC Pro Strut front end to the long ball upper arm? I picked up a set of long balls, in the bag with them are 4 short 4-40 button head screws, and four 4-40 locknuts.

I'm guessing here that the conversion should be as simple as it seems... take the hinge pin mounts off the arms, mount them to the graphite brace with the short buttonheads, then the brace to the arms with the existing bolts that held the pin mounts, using the locknuts on top of the brace?

If I'm missing something, please let me know...

Thanks!
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