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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2008, 10:03 AM   #30016
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
That Slapmaster thrust is a freakin miricle worker. I had a brand new IRS diff with a slightly gritty feel to it as soon as I put any kind of side load on the bearing, ordered the thrust and now it's 100% smooth.
Do you have a part # by chance? And where did you order from?
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:31 AM   #30017
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Direct order is the only way I know to get them. I sent PayPal and had the thrust at my door 4 days later with the free shipping. www.slapmastertools.com
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:39 AM   #30018
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Do you have a part # by chance? And where did you order from?
Ashford Hobby carries Slapmaster stuff. The standard 1/12 scale thrust bearing stuff is here (he has 6 in stock):

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=4681
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:55 AM   #30019
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
That Slapmaster thrust is a freakin miricle worker. I had a brand new IRS diff with a slightly gritty feel to it as soon as I put any kind of side load on the bearing, ordered the thrust and now it's 100% smooth.
Oh Great.... now everyone is going to want one!

Actually, thanks for the props! The website just had a few updates. I have to bust out the iron and smooth out a couple things still. With the increasing variances in axles, I have had to come up with a few more thrust kits. Here's some quick references:

#101 will fit: these 12th scale cars; Associated, IRS, CRC, CEFX, BMI, Speedmerchant, and these WGT Cars; Asc 10R5, Speedmerchant Formula 10.

#109 will fit: 12th scale Niftech axles, Asc 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l converison.

#110 will fit: most known 10th scale oval chassis.

#120 will fit: CRC GenX10 WGT.

Brian
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:00 AM   #30020
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Direct order is the only way I know to get them. I sent PayPal and had the thrust at my door 4 days later with the free shipping. www.slapmastertools.com
Would have been 2 days if the postman had picked up. We are kind of digging out of the snow banks around here. Watching the news is entertaining. Everything is crashing around here. The scary one was the school kids in a bus hanging over the edge of I-5 after it broke through the guard rail! Darwin would have a field day here.
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:28 PM   #30021
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Haha, 4 days was fine by me, I'm in no rush, but I'll expect 2 days when I need another
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:44 PM   #30022
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Oh Great.... now everyone is going to want one!

Actually, thanks for the props! The website just had a few updates. I have to bust out the iron and smooth out a couple things still. With the increasing variances in axles, I have had to come up with a few more thrust kits. Here's some quick references:

#101 will fit: these 12th scale cars; Associated, IRS, CRC, CEFX, BMI, Speedmerchant, and these WGT Cars; Asc 10R5, Speedmerchant Formula 10.

#109 will fit: 12th scale Niftech axles, Asc 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l converison.

#110 will fit: most known 10th scale oval chassis.

#120 will fit: CRC GenX10 WGT.

Brian
Hey, Brian!!

Which one fits the new Serpent S120?
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:30 PM   #30023
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Hey, Brian!!

Which one fits the new Serpent S120?
I haven't had a Serpent S120 in my hands yet. The proto pic's I saw appeared to have copy of my design.... so I expect you wont need one. But incase that it doesn't come with a thrust bearing, then I could recommend one if I get the spec's from the axle. Just in case it's metric, let me know that axle diameter, the threaded stud diameter and the length the axle sticks past the hub bearing. This pic shows the axle is .130" past the hub bearing as an example.

Brian
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:33 PM   #30024
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
There are two really good ways to mount up servos for ackerman reasons; flat and in the mounts. The CRC front end likes to be in the mounts (angled) according to testing. Many have called the Prostrut front end a pure carpet front end... which is hard to believe after the great results at asphalt worlds. Flat or glued seams to pair up very well with the Asc Dynamic front end. When going flat, try to use the middle hole on the servo saver. If you use the upper set, you increase bump steer flattening out the links. When you use a flat servo, you want to use the tallest ball studs on the spindles you can without interfering with the wheel with it turned. Ackerman on the servo saver can be thought of as various angles of a V. The center bottom of the V is the servo saver screw. Tighten up the V, you will reduce ackerman. Open the V up, you increase ackerman. When you mount the servo flat on the chassis, fore and aft location also creates ackerman which has more of a profound effect. If you were to stretch a rubber band front spindle ball stud to spindle ball stud and your servo saver ball studs just happen to line up with the rubber band, you would have the least amount of ackerman. Drag the center of that rubber band forward, you increase ackerman with link sweep. What does this mean? The least amount of ackerman makes the car more forgiving "from center input" at the tx wheel then more ackerman. If you need to more steering input after several other major adjustments have been made, consider your ackerman. Tracks that are lower in grip can use more ackerman then tracks that are gummy or like fly paper. The CRC front end has a lot of forward sweep, but then again, the steering spindles are a different shape.... so it all needs to be considered as a complete package.

Ackerman is a very powerful adjustment after the conventional adjustments have been made.

Brian

Brian I can;t thank you enough Great Post
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:37 PM   #30025
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I haven't had a Serpent S120 in my hands yet. The proto pic's I saw appeared to have copy of my design.... so I expect you wont need one. But incase that it doesn't come with a thrust bearing, then I could recommend one if I get the spec's from the axle. Just in case it's metric, let me know that axle diameter, the threaded stud diameter and the length the axle sticks past the hub bearing. This pic shows the axle is .130" past the hub bearing as an example.

Brian
The S120 kit does come with a thrust washer system much like yours but it does not work. It goes into terminal bind when you tighten down the nut. I can't tell if the aluminum cap that contacts the outer bearing race is rubbing on the OD of the axle or if it is bottoming out on the end of the axle. I tried sanding down the diameter of the axle a little and put in 1/8th diff balls and it was slighty better but still not serviceable. It would still bind. Right now I am just using a CRC collar and doing the diff the old fashion way but I would like to use a thrust washer system if I can.

I will get the measurements and send them to you.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:44 PM   #30026
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sorry for this quick question, what is the best 1/12 based online store?
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:45 PM   #30027
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
The S120 kit does come with a thrust washer system much like yours but it does not work. It goes into terminal bind when you tighten down the nut. I can't tell if the aluminum cap that contacts the outer bearing race is rubbing on the OD of the axle or if it is bottoming out on the end of the axle. I tried sanding down the diameter of the axle a little and put in 1/8th diff balls and it was slighty better but still not serviceable. It would still bind. Right now I am just using a CRC collar and doing the diff the old fashion way but I would like to use a thrust washer system if I can.

I will get the measurements and send them to you.
I wont lie, I have ran into that one of my kits. The difference between the 12th & 10th scale thrust kit is only .010" just to clear the end of the axle.

You say the Serpent car has an aluminum spacer from the hub bearing to the thrust washer? Is there a belleville washer or some other form of "crush" for setting tension? Maybe even a nylon nut?

If you are using a CRC collar, there's a good change my 12th #101 kit should work, but lets look at the dimensions first.
bb
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:51 PM   #30028
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I wont lie, I have ran into that one of my kits. The difference between the 12th & 10th scale thrust kit is only .010" just to clear the end of the axle.

You say the Serpent car has an aluminum spacer from the hub bearing to the thrust washer? Is the a belleville washer or some other form of "crush" for setting tension? Maybe even a nylon nut?

If you are using a CRC collar, there's a good change my 12th #101 kit should work, but lets look at the dimensions first.
bb
Yes. The kit comes with three bevel washers after the last thrust bearing race and before the nut.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:57 PM   #30029
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hey crashby, this is not your personal support forum. lol

say hey to tim
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:05 PM   #30030
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Hey guys,

I have a question. I am going to start running 1/12 scale carpet and have a few questions. There is a chance I might use Orion products, but not sure. For the 19turn class what is the best motor/speed controler and battery combo(orion or other brands). Also what is the best JR servo to use. Also If you have any ideas that will help me that would great. I am fairly new to 1/12scale but not new to the hooby. I am looking for the best stuff for high level competition racing. I will be running the serpent S120 at some of the major electric events this year.

Thank you for the help,

DJ Apolaro
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