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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-21-2008, 02:39 PM   #30001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I searched this and got a lot of old answers and most of them were all over the place. So I am asking again -
What is a good rollout starting point for 13.5 Speed Passion for a fairly tight carpet track?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Tim
I would start around 68mm and go from there.
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:44 PM   #30002
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Just a curious question about why the front arms on 1/12 scale cars have evolved to the lengths that they are? Would longer upper arms be of benefit or would it screw with camber gain and bump steer or something else?
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:47 PM   #30003
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There are some who do run a longer upper arm. Some people take one of the extra caster blocks, cut the top part off, and place that between the caster block and the arm spacing it out. The CRC front end has a long upper arm conversion for it that I am running on my car now.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:02 PM   #30004
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So what is the benefit of a longer upper arm in your opinion?
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:10 PM   #30005
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It seems to smoothen out the car. Before I switched I was having a problem with not enough high speed steering and too much low speed steering (trying to compensate for the high speed steering). When I switched to the long arm on the CRC front suspension the car gained high speed steering and decreased low speed steering...or at least it seemed to. Either way the car is much easier to drive now.

Oh I forgot...the Speed Merchant front end has multiple upper arm mounting spots for several different lengths.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:33 PM   #30006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Just a curious question about why the front arms on 1/12 scale cars have evolved to the lengths that they are? Would longer upper arms be of benefit or would it screw with camber gain and bump steer or something else?
"Screwing" with camber gain is exactly what it does. A longer arm will have less camber gain and make the car drive a bit smoother. Its a tuning option.

Bump steer will only be affected by the angle of the steering links relative to the upper arms.
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Old 12-21-2008, 08:45 PM   #30007
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just wondering what the tire choice is for 17.5 or stock is?
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:57 PM   #30008
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What would be better for 1/12 stock racing, a pack with a higher voltage and less runtime, or a pack with higher runtime and less voltage. Ex. 460+ 1.235v+ or 450+ 1.24v+
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:13 PM   #30009
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I would go with higher voltage unless your running an enduro race like a Lemans type of race where runtime will be an issue. But, if it is just club racing, it would make no difference, however at a major race it would.
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:16 PM   #30010
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I will go with the highest voltage I can get then. Im just club racing, but everyone else has high number packs and they are getting that extra edge around the track.
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:29 AM   #30011
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I have been searching on here for a while now and have run into some good info on ackerman but What I cannot figure out is on a standard kinbrough Servo Saver (25 spline) there are 3 sets of holes. top and bottom ones are alligned vertically but the middle ones are closer together.

Can anyone tell me what each set of holes are for and what changes do they make in your steering and ackerman?


thanks
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:38 AM   #30012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I have been searching on here for a while now and have run into some good info on ackerman but What I cannot figure out is on a standard kinbrough Servo Saver (25 spline) there are 3 sets of holes. top and bottom ones are alligned vertically but the middle ones are closer together.

Can anyone tell me what each set of holes are for and what changes do they make in your steering and ackerman?


thanks
jdeadman- the quick dirty answer (I think) is:
the middle holes are offset to add strength tothe servo saver. If all the holes were in line I think it would create weak points in the saver. As far as the 3 hole positions it affects the angle of the steering rod in relation to the upper arm (bumpster and ackerman).

I'm sure other can add to this as well.
E
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:46 AM   #30013
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E thanks for that info. Now with the angle of the steering arms.. is that height angle or front to back angle? Also if anyone knows that affect does servo Angle do on ackerman?

I have a CRC carpet knife 3.2R and I have just put on the Gen X Pro Strut Front End and I like it alot but I find that the servo is just too far forward to the front end.

Thanks again
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:26 AM   #30014
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There are two really good ways to mount up servos for ackerman reasons; flat and in the mounts. The CRC front end likes to be in the mounts (angled) according to testing. Many have called the Prostrut front end a pure carpet front end... which is hard to believe after the great results at asphalt worlds. Flat or glued seams to pair up very well with the Asc Dynamic front end. When going flat, try to use the middle hole on the servo saver. If you use the upper set, you increase bump steer flattening out the links. When you use a flat servo, you want to use the tallest ball studs on the spindles you can without interfering with the wheel with it turned. Ackerman on the servo saver can be thought of as various angles of a V. The center bottom of the V is the servo saver screw. Tighten up the V, you will reduce ackerman. Open the V up, you increase ackerman. When you mount the servo flat on the chassis, fore and aft location also creates ackerman which has more of a profound effect. If you were to stretch a rubber band front spindle ball stud to spindle ball stud and your servo saver ball studs just happen to line up with the rubber band, you would have the least amount of ackerman. Drag the center of that rubber band forward, you increase ackerman with link sweep. What does this mean? The least amount of ackerman makes the car more forgiving "from center input" at the tx wheel then more ackerman. If you need to more steering input after several other major adjustments have been made, consider your ackerman. Tracks that are lower in grip can use more ackerman then tracks that are gummy or like fly paper. The CRC front end has a lot of forward sweep, but then again, the steering spindles are a different shape.... so it all needs to be considered as a complete package.

Ackerman is a very powerful adjustment after the conventional adjustments have been made.

Brian
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:01 AM   #30015
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That Slapmaster thrust is a freakin miricle worker. I had a brand new IRS diff with a slightly gritty feel to it as soon as I put any kind of side load on the bearing, ordered the thrust and now it's 100% smooth.
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