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KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-15-2008, 09:17 AM   #29911
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Adrian, do you know the OD of DB4015, the diff rings? And they do fit the IRS axle, right?
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:27 AM   #29912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Hey Parttime, I think I would start with this. First off, never assume anything. Front springs are only two dollars, buy a pair that way you know for sure what you have. I would also start off with 10 degree's of caster in the front.

The cnter shock I would start of with 30 wt oil and a copper spring from associated. The dampning tubes start with 10,000, and the side springs should be white. Ride height about 3.5 in the rear, and 3-3.25 in the front. Also, about 1 millimeter of pod droop. Dope all the rear tires and the inside 1/3 of the fronts.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Ken
I will check to see if the LHS has front springs.
I have the 5 deg reactive block in (the only ones I have) and it has a shim on both sides in the arm.

I have 3 shock springs. red,copper and silver. It had the red on there so I put the copper and 30wt in as a guess. I dont have any oil for the tubes, gonna have to find those. I also have a bunch of side springs. I think red was in there but put whites in. Still have green and blue above that I can try. The car had about 1mm of pod droop already.

So it should be pretty close then? Cool. Thanks

Trips: I will keep an eye out for those tires. One of the tracks I race at has real low grip.

DK
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:40 AM   #29913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brians11 View Post
Adrian, do you know the OD of DB4015, the diff rings? And they do fit the IRS axle, right?
.980 OD and .570 ID They are for the IRS axle.
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:41 AM   #29914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I will check to see if the LHS has front springs.
I have the 5 deg reactive block in (the only ones I have) and it has a shim on both sides in the arm.

I have 3 shock springs. red,copper and silver. It had the red on there so I put the copper and 30wt in as a guess. I dont have any oil for the tubes, gonna have to find those. I also have a bunch of side springs. I think red was in there but put whites in. Still have green and blue above that I can try. The car had about 1mm of pod droop already.

So it should be pretty close then? Cool. Thanks

Trips: I will keep an eye out for those tires. One of the tracks I race at has real low grip.

DK

You should be able to buy the caster blocks from your LHS pretty inexpensively. The dampner tube lubes they should have also, thats if they hav a carpet track. Stick with the white side springs for now, then only go to the red ones if the bite REALLY comes up. And I would go ahead and put the copper srping on with the frsh 30 wt. Hope this helps.

Ken
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:01 AM   #29915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I will check to see if the LHS has front springs.
I have the 5 deg reactive block in (the only ones I have) and it has a shim on both sides in the arm.

I have 3 shock springs. red,copper and silver. It had the red on there so I put the copper and 30wt in as a guess. I dont have any oil for the tubes, gonna have to find those. I also have a bunch of side springs. I think red was in there but put whites in. Still have green and blue above that I can try. The car had about 1mm of pod droop already.

So it should be pretty close then? Cool. Thanks

Trips: I will keep an eye out for those tires. One of the tracks I race at has real low grip.

DK
Sounds like you ought to be close. The 5 degree blocks are a good place to start, and a shim on each side is also a good start. You might want to get a set of the 10 degree blocks to try as well... If you find you have a lot of initial steering into the corner, then a push on the exit, you can move both shims to the back... if you have little initial steer, but plenty at the exit, move the shims forward... if you have a good balance between initial and exit steering, but need less steering in general, you could go to the red shock spring (it's two pounds lighter than the copper) or lighter on the side springs... If you want more steering in general, you could try the ten degree blocks for the upper arm...

Another tire combo I like is Parma grey rear/coral front...
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:11 AM   #29916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brians11 View Post
Adrian, do you know the OD of DB4015, the diff rings? And they do fit the IRS axle, right?
They are .975" in diameter. They are IRS rings and so they better fit IRS axles...lol!

We do a lot of work with Dave Irrgang and we use IRS components everywhere we can on our cars.
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:15 AM   #29917
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Note that BMI racing carries a lot of stuff that is common to all 1/12th cars.

For example, we are one of Jaco's dealers in the US. We stock all 1/12th compounds and all the common 1/10th tires including World GT Spec tires.

Have a poke around the site if you get a chance.
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:46 AM   #29918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Sounds like you ought to be close. The 5 degree blocks are a good place to start, and a shim on each side is also a good start. You might want to get a set of the 10 degree blocks to try as well... If you find you have a lot of initial steering into the corner, then a push on the exit, you can move both shims to the back... if you have little initial steer, but plenty at the exit, move the shims forward... if you have a good balance between initial and exit steering, but need less steering in general, you could go to the red shock spring (it's two pounds lighter than the copper) or lighter on the side springs... If you want more steering in general, you could try the ten degree blocks for the upper arm...

Another tire combo I like is Parma grey rear/coral front...
Thats what I was looking for. A kinda guide line to follow. Thanks a bunch.

I should have it ready for wed to get a few shake down runs before FRI night.

DK
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:52 AM   #29919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
.980 OD and .570 ID They are for the IRS axle.
One more thing, does the IRS axle require a non-flanged bearing inside the spur gear?
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:01 AM   #29920
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It uses a flanged bearing in the spur.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:50 PM   #29921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Note that BMI racing carries a lot of stuff that is common to all 1/12th cars.

For example, we are one of Jaco's dealers in the US. We stock all 1/12th compounds and all the common 1/10th tires including World GT Spec tires.

Have a poke around the site if you get a chance.
Hi AdrianM,

I'm not poking in the right spot because I can only find two items offered under 1/12th tires. How can I order other compounds?

thanks
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:40 PM   #29922
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Hi AdrianM,

I'm not poking in the right spot because I can only find two items offered under 1/12th tires. How can I order other compounds?

thanks
You are in the right spot. The website only shows what is in stock.
We are waiting (and waiting...) for Jaco to send tires to us.
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Old 12-16-2008, 04:00 PM   #29923
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Photos and videos from the BRCA 12th scale Tamworth national are now available at www.carsrcracing.co.uk. As well as videos of all 3 A mains, I've tried to get a few decent car photos in this time, so included are Elliott Harper's XRay XII (with latest updates) and Chris Kerswell's V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 2.0 prototypes, as well as the BMI DB12RR, Hot Bodies 12x, Associated RC12R5 T-bar and Serpent S120.

Trev
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:06 PM   #29924
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Speaking of tires.....I've been out of racing for a while and I come back only to find a huge variety of compounds and wheel diameters to choose from. I see a bunch of guys running the new larger rims and cutting the foam down to nothing and saying that my old small rim stuff will not compete. CRC, Jaco & Parma brands, yellow, pink, grey, white & black rears. Magenta, Pink, Double Pink, Purple, ect. fronts.

What is everyone running these days (on a local level) for rim size and do you see a big difference from the older small rims? Seems crazy to me to buy something that is smaller out of the box than I would usually run. Is the extra $$ really worth it?

I was always under the impression that all the rubber came from the same manufacturer and that the harder stuff just came from the outter edges of the sheets and the softer from the center. Is it different now?

I've been running old Purple fronts and Pink rears for the last couple of weeks with good results but need to start thinking about new and not sure which direction to go. Your thoughts?
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:34 PM   #29925
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Not necessary to run the latest brand of tire to be competitive, but if you go run a big race, chances are that you will need the latest to get that extra edge.

The popular Jaco Prism combos at my track have been Purple/Gray or Lilac/Yellow.

As for different brands, I can tell you from experience that the Jaco Prism wheels are flexible and will usually only warp a little on impact, where as the CRC wheels are a harder plastic that will crack on impact, but they are rigid and hold their shape well during cornering for a more flat running tire.
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