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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-21-2003, 07:29 AM   #2971
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davidl: Did your pm to stormperson reveal my secret identity? If not, I'm Ian Ruggles, formerly of Crossroads Raceway in Dayton OH, and now a local at Ultra Racing in Cinci during the Indoor season, and CORCAR in Columbus for the Summer months. I can generally be found at those tracks hanging around with Mike Pulfer, Mo Denton, Rob Love, and Chris Doseck.

Addict sa R/C: The six-pack conversion comes with a Chassis and the Uni-tune conversion doesn't.
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Old 05-21-2003, 07:49 AM   #2972
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David Root, CypressMidWest, thanks for the replies. Just one more question. What's the difference between the Six Pack chassis and the 12L3 chassis?
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Old 05-21-2003, 07:54 AM   #2973
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The only difference I'm sure about is the shape of the front of the chassis. The associated is has the material between the body posts milled away, and the front of the six-pack chassis doesn't.
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:07 AM   #2974
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Wonderful. Thanks Cypress.
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:12 AM   #2975
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can i interchange the rear pod of an rc12L3 Oval to the rc12L3 On road, so I can use the 3 shocks from the L3-0?

does the rc12L3-Oval has a T-plate. This method might be cheaper than buying the "rug Rat conversion" from IRS?
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:16 AM   #2976
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lem 2: You can put the three sock system on the roadcourse car, but you'll run into body clearance issues with the shocks, and it really isn't worth all the added weight. Tubes are just as effective for the amount of dampening we're trying to achieve, and there far less work when it's time to rebuild. just get a CRC six-pack top plate and a set of tubes............

Or you could always get a Speedmerchant car!
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Old 05-21-2003, 11:26 AM   #2977
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Racer- www.teamcrc.com

Like I said previously the 6-pack is a 12L3 clone, so all of the breakables/parts that wear out are interchangable.......
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Old 05-21-2003, 02:31 PM   #2978
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cypressmidwest- he gave me all the gory details lol. I had wondered if you were part of team cypress, since I race at Big Boys Toys in MA (Eric Desrosiers home track) (as well as RC Madness in CT as of late for asphault) and Bruce, Scott, Jake (when he raced over the winter) and David (used to, lol) race there.

lem2: While i have not run a 6pack, I have talked to CRC drivers and they say to run without the side springs, just use the t plate and damper tubes. Mark Smyka is one of the few Team CRC drivers who runs it over the knife, however he has a "ask him" section on RC madness's forum (www.rcmadness.com) incase you have any questions (i think smyka won the birds in stock 12th).

However at the carpet nats this year i saw that Mike Dumas had dual damper tubes on his rc12l3, he also has a section on madness's site. however if you take out the disks and all that junk on on the AE car drill holes for mounting the ball studs (if there arent holes already) for damper tubes (they are not 4-40 ball studs, they are slightly smaller), and then get the l3 oval thingie (i am not sure if the roadcourse car has it) to mount the other side of the damper tubes. so that way it would be alot cheaper and you get the same thing basically.
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Old 05-21-2003, 05:14 PM   #2979
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What is the difference between the 6 pack and the carpet knife? Which one do you guys think is better. Also, should I get a red edition car or just a normal kit? What does the red edition come with that the standard car doesn't? Is the red edition much more competable (is that a word ?, haha). Thanks for the replies, they've been very helpful . I think that I'm going to go with either the standard 6 pack or the red edition 6 pack. Should I put CA on the edges of the CF chassis? What do you guys do? I don't want my chassis to split in half when I'm racing !
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Old 05-21-2003, 07:42 PM   #2980
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Hmmm.. I bought the standard CK. I did not want aluminum screws. I am a mechanic and steel screws are fine with me. The red version has eye candy. Again doesn't make me go any faster. It also comes with premium tires. This is a good thing. Purple fronts and grey rears. The standard edition comes with green fronts and rears. The other thing on the red version is the lowered rear axle mounts. They allow you to run your tires down lower to the last little bit of foam. I don't know about that, ifyou read this forum some are for it and some against. I just keep my old tires in case I some do buy the lowered pods. I can run my tires down pretty low with out them.

I am a cheapy some times. I have no tire truer. I run them from new full size until they are junk.

LOVE that CARPET KNIFE!!!
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:09 PM   #2981
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CRC has an excellent "How to" on prepping the chassis with CA
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Old 05-21-2003, 10:38 PM   #2982
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I think I'll get the standard 6 pack with the lowered rear pod thingy. It will probably end up saving me money in the long run because I will be able to use my tires longer. Here's my question again if any ya guys missed it: What's the difference between the 6 pack and the Carpet Knife? Thanks for all the help ! Oh, one more question, does the 6 pack or Carpet Knife require you to use tape for holding your packs down or is there some type of strap or O-ring. I seem to remember someone saying the Carpet Knife uses an O-ring, mabey I'm just imagening. If it does us an O-ring does the 6 pack us it also?
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Old 05-21-2003, 10:51 PM   #2983
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the six pack can hold up to 6 cells in a saddle pack configuration and you must use tape. it also has a T-plate for rear suspension



the carpet knife only holds 4 cells and they go accross the chassis with an o-ring holding them down, no T-plate just side springs and dampner tubes

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Old 05-21-2003, 10:52 PM   #2984
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Question about 12l3 pods.....asphalt track

What is affected by the pod being angled slightly downward (leading edge higher than the trailing edge)? Should the pod be exactly level with the chassis when the car is ready to run? Or should there be a slight rise or dip to the trailing edge of the chassis/leading edge of the pod?

Also: What does a small washer under the piviot ball do?

Thanks !
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Old 05-21-2003, 11:10 PM   #2985
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I was looking more carefully on the CRC site. It looks like the only difference between the two cars (Carpet Knife and 6 Pack) is the chassis. I'm only going to be running 4 cell and I think the Carpet Knife looks better for me. Is there a difference in wheel base between the cars? It also didn't look like the 6 pack uses a O-ring to hold down the pack, but an O-ring does hold down the pack on a Carpet Knife, another point for the CK . I may go with the full hopped up red version because the lower rear axle thing cost about 45 bucks alone and then I would need new tires if I got the standard kit so that would cost me about 25-30 bucks (or do they cost more, or less?) so I would end up having to buy more things. Do either of the cars come with some form of a bumper? I haven't been able to find one in any pics but mabey they just didn't show it. If they don't come with one does any company make one? What do ya know?? I just answered a bunch of my own questions ! But I still have some questions that I don't know. Thanks!
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