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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-30-2008, 01:02 PM   #29821
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Thanks for the help guys. rpoage you'll be getting a order soon.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:56 AM   #29822
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I own a Gen X, and have 1 question. in the manual for building the dif it doesnt show a thrust bearing being used, but the car i have does have one.

Can someone explain what the difference is in running one. I've been running with it since i got it, but now i want to try it without, will I be sorry, or should i try it? Is there an advantage to running it?

Also are the washers that go on either side of the thrust bearing supposed to be smooth or have a grove in it?

thanks

s
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:11 AM   #29823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satish View Post
I own a Gen X, and have 1 question. in the manual for building the dif it doesnt show a thrust bearing being used, but the car i have does have one.

Can someone explain what the difference is in running one. I've been running with it since i got it, but now i want to try it without, will I be sorry, or should i try it? Is there an advantage to running it?

Also are the washers that go on either side of the thrust bearing supposed to be smooth or have a grove in it?

thanks

s
The thrust bearing helps the regular bearings last longer, since it helps to reduce the side loads on the other bearings. The red anodized spacer with the little lip is to transfer the load to the inner race of the regular bearings. The axle and diff bearings should last quite a while, but if you don't use the thrust bearing the life will be greatly diminished. Regular bearings don't like side loads, like when you hit the barriers.

The "washers" for the thrust bearing have grooves in them, which are actually the raceway for the thrust bearing balls.
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:32 AM   #29824
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i am looking for info on the mounting postions of a servo. a post # or somebody reply. i have read chunks of the thread and have not found it yet. my questions are:

Angled vers flat

ball studs front servo saver or behind

tie rods straight or angled

i will be racing on carpet and stock class with 2 cars bmi ff07

thanks
Racin'4-Fun
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:10 PM   #29825
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Does anyone know if a brushless will drop into a 12 L3. If not what would I need to do to make it work. I thought I heard something about not being able to run the right pinion/spur combo in the car.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:25 PM   #29826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
Does anyone know if a brushless will drop into a 12 L3. If not what would I need to do to make it work. I thought I heard something about not being able to run the right pinion/spur combo in the car.
It will work, you just have to use a 76-78 tooth spur. I believe Nexusracing.com has even smaller PRS spurs.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:39 PM   #29827
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And you will probably have to take off one side of the pod to get the BL motor into the pod. It should fit but will not slide right in.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:55 PM   #29828
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Thanks for the comments. I have looked into the pits of the 12 scale guys and it always seem they carried a whole bunch of extra motors with them. The one thing 12 scale seems to be is very technical.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:59 PM   #29829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
Thanks for the comments. I have looked into the pits of the 12 scale guys and it always seem they carried a whole bunch of extra motors with them. The one thing 12 scale seems to be is very technical.
Your observations are correct
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:03 PM   #29830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftDreamer06 View Post
i am looking for info on the mounting postions of a servo. a post # or somebody reply. i have read chunks of the thread and have not found it yet. my questions are:

Angled vers flat

ball studs front servo saver or behind

tie rods straight or angled

i will be racing on carpet and stock class with 2 cars bmi ff07

thanks
Racin'4-Fun
Laying the servo flat tends to provide a more aggressive feel in my experience, the angled servo seems to have a smoother feel and can be easier to drive.

Ballstuds in front or behind the servo isn't really an issue, it's the angles of the tie rods you need to look at. Tie rods straight across seems to provide more ackerman (the inside wheel turns more than the outside wheel) Ti rods angled forward (the attachment at the sevo forward of the attachments at the steering blocks) reduces ackerman. Varying the ackerman changes the feel of the steering. More ackerman in my experience gives more steering, up to a point.

Height of the tie rods or actually the height difference between the attachment at the servo and at the steering block affects bump steer. Higher at the servo than at the steering block will give bump in (the front wheels will toe-in on compression of the front suspension) which can make the steering overly aggressive and unpredictable, having the tie rods higher at the steering blocks will result in bump out, which makes the car easier to drive, but possibly a bit slower due to less steering. I look to get neutral bump steer, or maybe the slightest bit of bump in on my cars.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:37 AM   #29831
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Hi guys,

Updated V-Dezign website is on air at www.v-dezign.net

New CR 2.0 upgrade kit will be released in Januari! Photos available soon!

-Vesa-
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:30 AM   #29832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftDreamer06 View Post
i am looking for info on the mounting postions of a servo. a post # or somebody reply. i have read chunks of the thread and have not found it yet. my questions are:

Angled vers flat

ball studs front servo saver or behind

tie rods straight or angled

i will be racing on carpet and stock class with 2 cars bmi ff07

thanks
Racin'4-Fun
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:41 AM   #29833
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Firstly I would like to say a Big Thanks for everyone who has posted in teh this forum. It has been a great help in staring my 12th scale racing.

Now that I am totally addicted to 12th scale racing after just 2 events I am looking to start improving my car

What I am wondering is other than Mark Payne's blocg are there any other good tutorials on what changes in the setup do to the handelling of the car.

Specifically I am looking for cornering speed and the ammout of push through a corner on power and off.


Thanks'

P.S. I have a CRC Carpet knife 3.2R with 10 degree blocks, Purple Fronts and pink rears. Checkpoint Money motor, 100/29 spur/pinoin on a mid byte track. I can get up to top speed about 3/4 of the way down the straight and still have good accelleration in the corners

I am currently pulling 10.5 to 11.6 sec laps where the top drivers are pulling 9.5

Thanks again
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:28 PM   #29834
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Just got my first 1/12 scale car from a fellow RC Tech member on the classifieds section. CRC Gen X. Car has a Epic XX Pro Stock Motor (27 turn) and a 96 tooth spur. Wanted to know what size pinion I should start off with. I know there are some formulas to figure out roll out but I just want something quick and dirty to try the car out first. The car has new tires with a lot of meat on them if that helps. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I usually run brushless TC cars and am totally new to 1/12

Tony
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:37 PM   #29835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by under200 View Post
Just got my first 1/12 scale car from a fellow RC Tech member on the classifieds section. CRC Gen X. Car has a Epic XX Pro Stock Motor (27 turn) and a 96 tooth spur. Wanted to know what size pinion I should start off with. I know there are some formulas to figure out roll out but I just want something quick and dirty to try the car out first. The car has new tires with a lot of meat on them if that helps. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I usually run brushless TC cars and am totally new to 1/12

Tony
For quick and dirty I'd suggest a 29-32 pinion, bigger tires stay lower on the pinion.

If you want to calculate rollout, my XX epics seemed to like 1.65-1.75 depending on the layout.

I'd suggest getting used to figuring rollout. it's really better than guessing. Some guys seem able to look at a car and judge gearing without measuring the tires, but I'm not one of them. I can pretty much guess within a tooth or two, but right is right, and two teeth of isn't.
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