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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-27-2008, 12:20 PM   #29806
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Bring parts
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Old 11-27-2008, 05:45 PM   #29807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
I'm not familiar with the 12R5 (yet...got one coming to play around with) so I don't know if it has a mount that limits servo choices or not. For example the CRC's are pretty much set up for the JR 3550/3650 (or they used to be), the DB12R is set up for the Futaba 9602/9650 or the KO PDS949, etc. The challenge is the different servos often have the output shaft in different positions relative to the sides of the servo.

I heartily recommend digital servos in this day and age. Especially if you're not suffering from budget limitations. The positive centering makes them worth their weight in gold for 1/12.

My own limited experience? I feel like the PDS949 is the most responsive and best feeling servo I've used. Unfortunately it's also the most expensive. It also seems (again, to me) to be the strongest/most accurately centering servo I've used. It is digital.

The Futaba 9650 is probably the best value in 1/12 steering servos. I believe it also specs out a touch faster than the PDS949 though I find myself dialing a bit of speed out of both. Works very well, I'm running them in both my DB12R's. Were available for $50 new for a while, I think they may be $60 now. It is also digital.

The JR Z3650 I've used the least though it seems to be a worthy (digital) successor to the former "gold standard of 1/12" the Z3550. Reasonably tough, reasonably fast, reasonably priced. Replacement parts (gear sets and cases) are probably the easiest of all to come by and half the price of either the KO or Futaba. If you're a gram counter I also believe the Z3650 is the lightest of the digital servos.

hth,

Scottrik

Oh--if anybody knows if/what servos the 12R5 is limited to please let me know. SS
Thank you, Very informative answer.
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:18 PM   #29808
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Can anyone tell me what size the flanged bearings are for the front wheels of a rc12l.
Also, what is a good 4600mah NiMH cell, and where is a good place to find them matched?

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:04 AM   #29809
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Originally Posted by jph View Post
Can anyone tell me what size the flanged bearings are for the front wheels of a rc12l.
Also, what is a good 4600mah NiMH cell, and where is a good place to find them matched?

Thanks
1/8 x 5/16

EnerG cells are good. ProMatch or SMC match them.
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:14 AM   #29810
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thanks odpurple.
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:58 PM   #29811
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Default spring steel t-plate

I read mention of a spring steel t-bar for t-bar cars. who makes them and are they worth it or will it break other parts.
tim
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:32 PM   #29812
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http://www.silvaconcepts.net/t_plates.shtml
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:40 PM   #29813
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OK doing some looking where can I find a replacement t-bar for a CRC t-force car. Are all of them the same hole location and such. Had a .063 fiberglass one on the car but it's done for. Lefthander seems to have a good selection of them but which one fits and suits, onroad carpet medium grip track.
Tim
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:17 PM   #29814
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Any associated style t-bar will fit your car
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...products_id=32
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3334&P=7
They can also be found in many other online stores
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:32 PM   #29815
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We carry almost all CRC parts.

Ashford Hobby CRC 13593 T-Bar Light .063 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby CRC 13592 T-Bar Med .075 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby CRC 13594 T-Bar Med .081 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby ASSOCIATED 4520 .075 SYMMETRICAL T BAR 12L

Ashford Hobby ASSOCIATED 4522 .063 SYMMETRICAL T BAR 12L
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:46 AM   #29816
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I'm having 2 problems here:

1) I installed a brand new LRP Sphere Competition in my AE 12R5, soldered everything perfect etc., and when I turn it on, I can steer but even at full throttle my pinion rotates about 1mm each time I hit the throttle, and it beeps every time I do it. I used 2-2-2-2 settings (for 12th scale) and did no modifications whatsoever.

2) I'm having problems using Spektrum in my 12th scale car. In offroad it is perfect, but in 12th scale I can't even steer, the servo gets current, everything working perfect (has nothing to do with my ESC problem, had the same thing with my previous, working ESC), but it doesn't react to my transmitter signals.

Can someone help me out?
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:54 AM   #29817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
I'm having 2 problems here:

1) I installed a brand new LRP Sphere Competition in my AE 12R5, soldered everything perfect etc., and when I turn it on, I can steer but even at full throttle my pinion rotates about 1mm each time I hit the throttle, and it beeps every time I do it. I used 2-2-2-2 settings (for 12th scale) and did no modifications whatsoever.

2) I'm having problems using Spektrum in my 12th scale car. In offroad it is perfect, but in 12th scale I can't even steer, the servo gets current, everything working perfect (has nothing to do with my ESC problem, had the same thing with my previous, working ESC), but it doesn't react to my transmitter signals.

Can someone help me out?
For problem 1, make sure the sensor cable is pushed all the way in, I've had this problem before and had to push it in a little more and it was fine.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:50 AM   #29818
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Thanks, but it didn't really help. The pinion doesn't move at all now, just a louder beep
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:05 PM   #29819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
With the side damper attached, it will be difficult to get the tweak set because it will almost be like having a stuck link or pivot. Pull the side damper and try again on the tweak station.

You will need to move your PT to the left and your switch and wires also to get the car to balance with no weight. If it still isnt right, just go with some weight. A heavy car will run better than one thats out of balance. Keep us posted buddy.
Jason, Mudvayne, trips, et al.

I discovered the side damper was messing with the tweak readings. When I removed it and checked tweak it was really close. It only took about a half turn on one side to get it perfect. I also switched to new .20 springs up front and although the car pushes off power a little more than I want, the car was better behaved. Ill be interested to see how the car works with Jason's linear .20's.

When I first checked balance I had the balance pins in the hole at the front of the chassis and the back of the pod. I had to add close to 55 grams (and with that much lead I couldn't get it all close to the edge) to balance. After noticing the new pod for the 12r5 that balances the motor and the recent discussions about balancing the car minus the pod, I moved the rear balance pin to the allen head for the center pivot screw. I only had to add about 20 grams, with the switch on the left and the PT in the center. Probably could get it close to balance with no weight with a standard size receiver, my PT on the right, and the switch on the right. I may be ordering the centered pod plates etc for the 12th. Today I could barely feel the pull to one side.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:50 PM   #29820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
Thanks, but it didn't really help. The pinion doesn't move at all now, just a louder beep

Check your battery pack for a bad cell.
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