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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-12-2008, 12:16 AM   #29716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
alright guys, just did some searching and no saw some interesting stuff. Let me lay it out.

7 years ago I bought a RC12L3. Went into the military and it got boxed up with one battery through it. It is 100% box stock.

I have been driving offroad for about a few months since getting out of the navy at OCRC. At first I figured to sell the L3 but I found out they have racing on road near me as well. I am keepin it. Im sold on the LIPO and Brushless craze as well.
My questions:
Is the RC12L3 still competitive?
I have a hitec HS-225BB servo. Keep it?
I have a GTB with a 17.5. Worth dropping in or should I get rid of it for the 4 Cell GTB?

and Finally im lookin at doing some parking lot racing. What would be a good base setup that I can use as a baseline for running a 17.5 and Since the car has sat for 7 years, the tires are shot so I am pickin up new ones as well.

Thanks for the help
1.) Yes, it can certainly be competitive... The big problem will be theold pod design and T-bar not allowing for a large enough spur to run brushless. You'll also want to consider getting lowered rear pods and front arms to run smaller tires. At that point you're probably better off picking up a used car like a 3.2R, Rev $, etc. for around $75.

2.) I hate that servo, some people like it but they seem to be the most troublesome servo used in 1/12th scales by far.

3.) Stick with the Speed 8 which is a slightly taller body than some others and possibly grind the heatsink down a bit on the GTB and it can work. With the fan it's not going to work... Personally I use the Sphere comp '07 and would not buy a 4 cell GTB due to less versatility.
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:10 PM   #29717
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Does any one know if it is ok to run a NOVAK GTB 4-CELL standard version esc with a SPEKTRUM radio system or do I have to use the NOVAK GTB 4-CELL SPREAD SPECKTRUM version, if it is ok what are the pluses an minuses
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:18 PM   #29718
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Originally Posted by BIGBOT View Post
Does any one know if it is ok to run a NOVAK GTB 4-CELL standard version esc with a SPEKTRUM radio system or do I have to use the NOVAK GTB 4-CELL SPREAD SPECKTRUM version, if it is ok what are the pluses an minuses
Should be OK,

The other way around using a Spread Specktrum GTB with a normal FM radio causes problems.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:18 PM   #29719
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It's a-ok to run a Spektrum (or other 2.4GHz radio) with a non spread-spectrum GTB but do not run a Spread Spectrum GTB with a 75 or 27MHz radio.

The Spread Spectrum GTB switches at a higher (more efficient) rate but, if I recall correctly, that high switching rate tends to cause radio interference at frequencies inhabited by the 75 and 27MHz radios. So when Spread Spectrum radios became more commonplace (led, of course by Spektrum, et al) Novak introduced an esc to take advantage of the natural resistance of the 2.4GHz radios to interference. So they increased the switching rate of the Spread Spectrum GTB's to take advantage of that characteristic of the new radios.
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Old 11-19-2008, 12:55 AM   #29720
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I need to purchase an RX pack but haven't run one in many years so I have no clue which to buy. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:46 PM   #29721
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Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
Should be OK,

The other way around using a Spread Specktrum GTB with a normal FM radio causes problems.
Thanks for your help
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:47 PM   #29722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
Should be OK,

The other way around using a Spread Specktrum GTB with a normal FM radio causes problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
It's a-ok to run a Spektrum (or other 2.4GHz radio) with a non spread-spectrum GTB but do not run a Spread Spectrum GTB with a 75 or 27MHz radio.

The Spread Spectrum GTB switches at a higher (more efficient) rate but, if I recall correctly, that high switching rate tends to cause radio interference at frequencies inhabited by the 75 and 27MHz radios. So when Spread Spectrum radios became more commonplace (led, of course by Spektrum, et al) Novak introduced an esc to take advantage of the natural resistance of the 2.4GHz radios to interference. So they increased the switching rate of the Spread Spectrum GTB's to take advantage of that characteristic of the new radios.
Thanks for your help
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:33 PM   #29723
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I need to purchase an RX pack but haven't run one in many years so I have no clue which to buy. Any suggestions?
anyone?
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:37 PM   #29724
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Why do you need an rx pack? I run modified with no rx pack and have no problems at all. You need a capacitor connected to the receiver.
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:41 PM   #29725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike View Post
I need to purchase an RX pack but haven't run one in many years so I have no clue which to buy. Any suggestions?
Sorry Peter...I'm guessing suggestions such as "avoid them like the plague" aren't particularly helpful.

MaxAmps (GREAT customer service, etc) and others like cheapbatterypacks.com have smaller capacity LiPo receiver packs. Unfortunately my understanding is that 2S LiPo really should have a regulator also or risk radio gear failure. This FURTHER complicates the receiver pack scenario.

I know cheapbatterypacks.com has little tiny cells too for receiver packs. Or if you want I've got a few dinky cell receiver packs I wound up with in some package or another. They're yours for the price of shipping if you want to play around with them.

Scottrik
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:57 PM   #29726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Why do you need an rx pack? I run modified with no rx pack and have no problems at all. You need a capacitor connected to the receiver.

Testing out a 1s lipo from SMC...
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:05 AM   #29727
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Default Which rotor to use in 12th

We are using a 5,5T motor in my sons 12th mod class car.

As we do most of our racing in mod touring I was wondering which rotor to use in 12th scale.
Should we aim at max RPM and use a small diameter rotor or a compromise in-between thickness or go for max torque with a large diameter rotor sacrificing some of the RPM?

In general which way should we go? RPM or torque?

Gearing of course should be adjusted accordingly.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:23 AM   #29728
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CYCLONE 12X was release !
What's New @ RC MARKET
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:22 AM   #29729
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didn't somebody have instructions how to build the genx front end properly so that's it smooth. I looked in the search but couldn't find it.
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:28 AM   #29730
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C'mon Nash.......it's like all the other front ends, just needs some special attention to certain areas. What type of problem are you incurring?
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