R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-19-2003, 09:27 PM   #2956
Tech Adept
 
highx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: ca
Posts: 138
Default

IMPACTPLAYR


Was the chassis a direct fit? What parts are original and what are new? Looks pretty sweet but did it help? Thanks for any answers and thanks for the nice pic.
highx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 04:38 AM   #2957
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

racerdx- check the past few pages and what i posted about the speedmerchant rev. 3, since i highly suggest that car over the l3
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 05:36 AM   #2958
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Highx- everything except for the chassis, T-bar, and top plate are origional. However I did use the CRC top plate on top of the Yok plate, this allowed me to keep the origional mounting points for the damper tubes.....


Everything is a direct fit concidering that the CRC car is a clone of the L3...

The car transitions faster because the weight is now more centralized, and doesn't get squirrly as fast because now the weight is setting as far back as possible...

and how's the #1 preformance feature according to most of the RC community????

Yeah it looks hella-cool!!!


Marvi- Duratrax bearings are repackaged Boca's.... they are very good for their price!!! Probably better than the Associated... dare I say!!!!
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 05:38 AM   #2959
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

OHH and back to handling of the car now.... I used the Associated T-Bar because it holds it's etting much better than the tweakscrews...... that is why I don't want to try a non T-bar car like the CK or REV 3.......
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 08:15 AM   #2960
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

impactplayr: Oddly, one of the main reasons I run a Rev.3 is because I find that the spring cars hold their tweak far better than T-bar cars. Plus, when I wanna change roll stiffness on my car all I have to do is pop two springs off, and pop two springs on, far quicker than changing a T-bar. I really never liked my 12L, it only felt right with a brand new T-bar, and to me T-bar cars never feel free in the middle of a corner. Not that they aren't good cars, I just don't like that heavy feeling they have.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 09:20 AM   #2961
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Damper tubes greatly mprove the handling and consistancy of T-bar cars, T-bar cars.... that is why I chose the 6-pack......I used the tweak screws for 2 heats and then went with teh T-bar for good....LOL
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 09:42 AM   #2962
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I tried tubes on my 12L, and the dampening was more consistent but the T-bars still show a tendency to take a set quicker than springs, and when my springs do take a set, I just rotate them, readjust the tweak and move on. You can probably do essentially the same thing with the symmetrical T-bars on the new cars by flipping the T-bar over and re-installing it, but it still takes 10 times longer than swapping springs.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 03:18 PM   #2963
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

cypressmidwest, who are u?
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 04:56 PM   #2964
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

Where can I get the CRC 6 pack? I'm very new to 1/12 cars and I don't know what much of the "lingo" is, can someone help me out? Whats the t-bar. Do all cars use the t-bar. Does the 6 pack use a t-bar? Can I use all of the front suspension parts from the L3 on the 6 pack? I dont think my track carries any parts for the 6 pack. Is there a conversion kit for the L3 that converts it to damper tubes? What do the damper tubes replace? Im VERY fuzzy on all these things because I don't know a lot about 1/12 cars. Thanks for the help ! One more question, what are tweak screws and tweak? I know what tweak is on a touring car, but how do you adjust it on a 1/12? I've been racing 1/10 touring for a while so thats mostly what I know about. Thanks again!
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 05:30 PM   #2965
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Storm - you have a personal message.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 06:45 PM   #2966
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default

Racerdx6,

I will answer the best I can.

CRC 6 pack is available at thier website. It has an associated front end and rear pod. It has a T-bar that holds the rear suspension to the car. This is a pan car and how most of them are made. It looks like a T and the top of the T goes across the rear pod with motor in it. The bottom half of the T goes up the center of the chasis between the 4 batteries. It has screws in the sides of the front to make the car sit levil with no torque to either side (tweak).

What you do is adjust the screws to make the front and rear true with each other. different electronics and other things can change the tweak of the car so you are adjusting it to compensate for theway the car sits. This is only left and right.

What you do is work the suspension, place the car on a levil surface. find a spot in the front exact center in front of the wheels. Put a dime or penny on each front tire a little off center. (front or back). Pick the car up in the front center slowly. See which side the penny turns the wheel and falls off first. Adjust one tweak screw in and the other one out the same amount so the pennies end up falling off at the same time.

Some people have "tweak baords". some use 4 digital scales to get things ever on all tires.

If your tweaK is off your car will love to spin out and be out of control especially under acceleration. It will probably turn different left and right.

I am new too, so I thought I would share what I have learned. I also learned I love pan cars!! Simple is good.

KISS Keep It Simple Stupid
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2003, 07:18 PM   #2967
Regional Moderator
 
Addict sa RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Quezon City, Philippines
Posts: 557
Default

Guys, what's the difference between the following:

Six-Pack 1/12th Conversion Kit $74.99 US

and the

Uni-Tune Suspension Kit - converts 12L suspension to Six-Pack $39.99 US

I just want to know what is included in each.

I tried emailing them but it's been more than a week with no reply.
Addict sa RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2003, 02:22 AM   #2968
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 4
Default

An RC shop here where I live just put in a brand new indoor carpet track. where they run 1/12, 1/10 electric sedans. And I am currently looking at getting into the 1/12th scale racing scene. I am a newbie at this electric scene, I have run Nitro before. But I am just wondering what everyones opinion is on the best or a nice 1/12th scale car to get?

Also, what equipment and other parts to buy with the car?



Thanks
rcracr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2003, 04:11 AM   #2969
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default Addict

Go to the CRC website, I think its Teamcrc.com and post on their message board, John will answer you the same day.

I don't want a T-Bar car.

David Root
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2003, 05:42 AM   #2970
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,105
Trader Rating: 62 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Duratrax bearings are repackaged Boca's.... they are very good for their price!!! Probably better than the Associated... dare I say!!!!
thanks ill get these because of the huge price difference. ive heard good things about boca bearings.
marvi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:52 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0