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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-29-2008, 10:22 PM   #29656
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Nice changes they made there...they really fine tuned the short comings of the previous car. .25mm ride height adapters in the rear is pretty sweet.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:45 PM   #29657
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I love the front-end on that thing
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:47 PM   #29658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpops View Post
Noob questions here, so be kind to me please.....

Got a cyclone 12, and had one run at local state titles and am a bit hooked on these little things. Coolest thing I have ever driven by a long margin.

I was suffering runtime issues due to crappy packs(6 month old 4200SHO from my TC) and over gearing to keep up with the guys using 5.5's as I was only using 10x1 brushed. So I have now got a new B/L system to remedy the speed issues, and a new 200mah lipo rx pack to help my servo(KO PDS949 I think?) be a bit faster and help with a bit more runtime.

Questions are 1) What would be a good starting rollout(in mm-we are metric in Australia!) for a 5.5 motor on a med-large flowing ashphalt track and 2) Do I need to run a voltage reg on the rx pack or will the lipo voltage fry things? Running LRP Sphere Comp/x11 5.5t, servo as mentioned, and Futaba HRS rx.

Thanks

Matt
Matt; welcome!
I ran some 5.5 on a med carpet at about 1.30" r/o... quickly converts over to roughly 33mm. Asphalt is always higher then carpet and being bigger, I would think you could manage low to mid 40's with a 5.5. I haven't tried the rx lipo pack, you may want to ask the folks at LRP.

Brian
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:26 AM   #29659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Hot Bodies just released info on their new revised 1/12 platform.

http://www.redrc.net/2008/10/hot-bodies-cyclone-12x/

Lookin good to me

-Korey
I'll be running it as soon as I can get my hands on one in the UK.

Especially love the new lower front arms.

Trev
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:45 AM   #29660
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kingpops....yes you have to run a reg with your rx pack. The system cant handle anything more than 6volts. Your gonna need to get a 6v reg with switch. And your gonna have to pull the red wire out of the servo plug on your speedo to disconect the built in bec. other wise you have two power source's trying to feed your servo and rx.

The LRP has a 5.5v bec.

HTH
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:12 AM   #29661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
kingpops....yes you have to run a reg with your rx pack. The system cant handle anything more than 6volts. Your gonna need to get a 6v reg with switch. And your gonna have to pull the red wire out of the servo plug on your speedo to disconect the built in bec. other wise you have two power source's trying to feed your servo and rx.

The LRP has a 5.5v bec.

HTH
DK
Just run a 4 cell receiver pack (4.8V). Leave the ESC on/off switch in the off position all the time if you run a receiver pack. Issue fixed.

You can run 6 Cell or 2S Lipo Receiver pack just fine as well. This is what most Nitro drivers use. So it won't blow anything up. I do just you add an on/off switch in line with your reciever pack though, to prevent the car from taking off or turning on as soon as you plug the receiver pack in.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:34 PM   #29662
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Well you do need to check the specifications on your reciever to see if it can handle the extra voltage, not all of them can. I know the Spektrum recievers are rated for higher voltage and can handle that. Next you have to check your servos as not many of those are rated for the higher voltage. If any of them can not handle the voltage you'll need to use a voltage regulator.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:59 PM   #29663
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I understand that using a voltage regulator is the 'ideal' device to knock the voltage down properly. However, I remember back in the day that we just used a diode to bring the voltage down 1 volt. Is this method bad, or is there any reason why we cannot continue to do that? - Just curious...
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Old 10-30-2008, 05:24 PM   #29664
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I personally use a 5 cell (6v) AAA pack that I made up. They are rated at 50mAh which privides plenty enough power for the whole 8 minutes. I just charge them up before each run which takes about 4-5 minutes (.05amp) and that's it, job done. The switch on the ESC is not used and a second switch on the lead going to the RX from the AAA pack turns the car on and off. Easy!
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:30 AM   #29665
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I ran my 1/12 scale tonight for the first time. Diff was smooth untill my last one. I cleaned it and through it back together and it still felt allitle gritty. Im running carbide balls. Do you think the rings and the balls are already shot?
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:38 AM   #29666
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Probably the outside bearing in your diff hub.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:47 AM   #29667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpops View Post
Noob questions here, so be kind to me please.....

Got a cyclone 12, and had one run at local state titles and am a bit hooked on these little things. Coolest thing I have ever driven by a long margin.

I was suffering runtime issues due to crappy packs(6 month old 4200SHO from my TC) and over gearing to keep up with the guys using 5.5's as I was only using 10x1 brushed. So I have now got a new B/L system to remedy the speed issues, and a new 200mah lipo rx pack to help my servo(KO PDS949 I think?) be a bit faster and help with a bit more runtime.

Questions are 1) What would be a good starting rollout(in mm-we are metric in Australia!) for a 5.5 motor on a med-large flowing ashphalt track and 2) Do I need to run a voltage reg on the rx pack or will the lipo voltage fry things? Running LRP Sphere Comp/x11 5.5t, servo as mentioned, and Futaba HRS rx.

Thanks

Matt
Pops,

37mm rollout should do you ok with the 5.5.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:03 PM   #29668
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Default Silly question

Why do we run ackerman at all on 1/12 scale - I know it looks sexy and I understand with 4wd - either touring car or 1/8 - its a driven wheel - yes we need it.

But why on an un-driven wheel do we put in ackerman? It seems that the more we take out the better the car works.

brought to you by "bring back the drag-link"
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Old 11-02-2008, 07:18 PM   #29669
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andrewdoherty give me a call
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:22 PM   #29670
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< Yet another n00b question >

I used to race an old RC12LS in another life. I am completely out of touch with anything modern, but I have recently been playing around with some friends and 2WD offroad buggies. I forgot how fun this is, but...

...my real love is these little onroad machines. I don't even know who makes 1/12 cars at this point, so I'll start with that question.

The only track of any promise around here it seems is SRS, and it's fairly small; still, I want to do it. Once I hit the lottery, AZ will host the nation's premier onroad racing facility, but for now I'll take what I can get.

Thanks.
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