R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-27-2008, 11:07 AM   #29626
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
This is the first time I have heard of this problem.
At least on the Hotbodies shock. I've done it on the VCS Micro shocks and believe it or not, on my t-bar cars
I've been running 13.5/10.5(practice) regularly with NO issues......yet.
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 11:45 AM   #29627
Team EAM
 
EAMotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 8,864
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to EAMotorsports
Default

The pic of the cars posted is the new yet to be released CRC Shock. Its like the HB shock internally.

The only way I have seen the ends of the shocks break off is when running a Link car and using the rubber Oring to hold the batteries down. In a hard impact it stretches enough to allow the batteries to hit the shock and break them. Always use Tape.

EA
__________________
Contact Us
Team EAM, Our Facebook
Xray | RCAmerica | Hudy | Apex RC | ProSpec America | Killer Concepts | AVID | Futaba.
EAMotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 12:20 PM   #29628
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: maryland
Posts: 3,972
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

ok guys this is the new FTR 12 SCALE
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-new10.jpg   1/12 forum-new-1.jpg   1/12 forum-new2.jpg   1/12 forum-new6.jpg  
__________________
comming soon MOTORHEAD RC MOTORSPORTS...........
BILL.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 02:19 PM   #29629
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
Well I'm right and I'll stick to it. Take a pizza cutter wheel and cut some slices. The wheel didn't slip yet the contact pressure between the wheel edge and the pizza was great enough to indent and slice the pizza. Since the pizza is being moved by the slicing wheel it can be assumed that wear will happen to the slicing wheel. Yes this is an example of extremely hard and soft materials, but to some degree the softer diff-ring will yield to the harder diff balls at every pass and create wear. The same approch to pizza slicers is how the Chunnel and many other tunnels were bored through hard rock. This is why a diff with minimal slipping will still create a indentation where the balls were running. As long as there are one or two off sized balls, the contact pressure will increase for those balls and increase the wear to the diff ring.

The harder your diff balls and tighter the grade tollerance the less worry about wear. Some racers like me, just run the diff rings for months and months since the secret I found in a smooth diff is, high quality balls, good thrust bearing and cone washers.
Taking the first part first...

There is no wear between the ball and the ring as there is no differential movement. The indents in the ring are caused by the pressure of the ball on the ring, and the very high level of point contact. The indents aren't wear, they are the deformation of the ring under the high contact loads. They look like wear, but they are deformation. It is made worse when dust and grit gets in and gets between the ball and the ring, causing indents (more deformation) in the ring.

Yes, harder diff balls and tighter tolerances make for less worry about the diff being poor, but that's because a harder ball makes a finer track, and the equality of size reduces the pressure needed to make the diff work and so reduces the deformation. And yes, the very last thing you should ever do is have a diff that slips for one nano-second, as that is wear, and that is the fastest route to a scratchy diff! Oh, and not smacking the rear wheels on the boards helps a lot too!!! HTH
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 02:33 PM   #29630
Tech Fanatic
 
trailranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 946
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Taking the first part first...

There is no wear between the ball and the ring as there is no differential movement. The indents in the ring are caused by the pressure of the ball on the ring, and the very high level of point contact. The indents aren't wear, they are the deformation of the ring under the high contact loads. They look like wear, but they are deformation. It is made worse when dust and grit gets in and gets between the ball and the ring, causing indents (more deformation) in the ring.

Yes, harder diff balls and tighter tolerances make for less worry about the diff being poor, but that's because a harder ball makes a finer track, and the equality of size reduces the pressure needed to make the diff work and so reduces the deformation. And yes, the very last thing you should ever do is have a diff that slips for one nano-second, as that is wear, and that is the fastest route to a scratchy diff! Oh, and not smacking the rear wheels on the boards helps a lot too!!! HTH

So it is agreed upon. If replacing diff balls, replace all of them with HIGH GRADE HARDENED BALLS to limit d-ring deformation(wear) and excess contact pressure to create a smooth working diff.

As for slipping, well the oval racers may say that some slippage and a very free diff is the fastest way around the corner.
trailranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 03:28 PM   #29631
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BILL.D View Post
ok guys this is the new FTR 12 SCALE
Nice looking car. But whats with the springs on the damper tubes?

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 08:54 PM   #29632
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: RVA
Posts: 455
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Were can I download the manuals for a CRC T-Force???
Tim
got2bqik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 09:20 PM   #29633
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 148
Send a message via ICQ to Seano
Default

Here you go http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=35
Seano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 10:08 PM   #29634
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 99
Default

Hey, I just wanted to personally thank Tony Carrubba and tell everyone how nice and outstanding a guy he is. My name is Shawn and I live in Atlanta, Ga. I first heard about power push last year and used his batteries to race 12 scale. I purchased several packs and a motor. The motor is still awesome, very fast, probable the fastest around. The batteries I ordered were also equally great. I had two cells go bad this season from the batch I purchased last year. These were matched packs. I ordered some more batteries and asked him to send me two replacement cells. He sent me the two replacement cells for free. Thats was about $24.00. He did not have to do that, but he did it out the kindness of his heart. He has customer for life now. I just wanted to share this with everone. Power Push Batteries are the best!
Shawn Buchanan
__________________
Race Hard baby!
bucatl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 10:12 PM   #29635
Tech Apprentice
 
rsperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Default Brushless advice - 1/12 stock

I am thinking to run stock (Masters 1/12) I need a 17.5 and a speed controller.

I want to get back in to 1/12 (maybe) and want to see what I need. Last time I raced 1/12 electric, NIMH was new and all still brushed motors. I have a Yokomo 1/12 with some IRS and Niftech upgrades so I am not totally out of touch (or am I) But its still been close to 10 years. I did run TC a bit after that - but enough of that.

Anyway - advice on a speed control/Stock brushless is needed - Please help

Thanks
rsperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2008, 10:27 PM   #29636
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,662
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsperson View Post
I am thinking to run stock (Masters 1/12) I need a 17.5 and a speed controller.

I want to get back in to 1/12 (maybe) and want to see what I need. Last time I raced 1/12 electric, NIMH was new and all still brushed motors. I have a Yokomo 1/12 with some IRS and Niftech upgrades so I am not totally out of touch (or am I) But its still been close to 10 years. I did run TC a bit after that - but enough of that.

Anyway - advice on a speed control/Stock brushless is needed - Please help

Thanks
Take a look through this thread, AE RC12L Resto from '88 Worlds -- Please Helpnot too long and lots of suggestions on just this topic. Also suggest you check the link I provided in there, lots of ideas on esc's, motors, and wire/electronics layouts.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2008, 12:16 AM   #29637
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
I'm having a massive memory failure right now. what is the size of the arm hinge pin? trying to find a reamer!
Should be .078"
bb
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2008, 12:29 AM   #29638
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Time to drop a little plug for some new stuff emerging from the Slapmaster tent. I have a "balanced" b/l rear pod for the MS3. It's in prototype hacked form that I will be testing at the upcoming NWIC Race #2 in La Center, Wa at Timezone 2. With the help of some CRC's parts: new shorty hub, long X brace and a pair of motor bulkheads.... the pod is symmetrical.... perfectly balanced.... and will take either CEFX and Asc t-bars. I hope to punch out a few more units for testing before I take the next plunge.

The goal is to take the MS3 from a chassis conversion kit to a near roller by having the customer add their fav front end a rear axle.

Here's some sneaky peaks:

Brian
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-pa250001.jpg   1/12 forum-pa250002.jpg   1/12 forum-pa250003.jpg   1/12 forum-pa260004.jpg   1/12 forum-pa260005.jpg  

Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2008, 06:47 AM   #29639
Tech Apprentice
 
rsperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 62
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Take a look through this thread, AE RC12L Resto from '88 Worlds -- Please Helpnot too long and lots of suggestions on just this topic. Also suggest you check the link I provided in there, lots of ideas on esc's, motors, and wire/electronics layouts.
Was there another link in there becides the one for CRC? I know where the web sites are I was looking for something becides all the "Buy ME, I'm the best" adverts on every sales site.

I have run against Frank(at least until the restack),in the JanJam at Madness a LONG time ago(The first one?), (Got whuped good too - but its still fun)

I can still find my old Delta Spyder or even a Super Phaser if we want some moderately old school. (Real old school would take a Leisure/6Cell/32pitch/No Diff/Asphalt/ElmsfordRaceway-outdoors)

I'm not QUITE older then dirt. I can just grab a Orion 17.5 and their speed control. Don't think I want a Novak - I always liked Tekin. what about any new BL players?

Last edited by rsperson; 10-28-2008 at 07:16 AM.
rsperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2008, 07:36 AM   #29640
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Well, since we're showing off new stuff...

We are ready to announce the newest offering from Powell Racing Components. The new Torch 1/12 scale features all new super low pod bulkheads and a new proprietary T-bar design that keeps the cells as close to center as possible. T-bars will be offered in 2 lengths, standard and .25Ē shorter. Using the shorter length will allow the ESC to be mounted in the center of the car for increased balance. The rear edge of the chassis and the front edge of the bottom plate are designed to allow maximum side to side articulation from the T-bar. 1/12 scale cars donít need much articulation but we have found that having the T-bar touch the chassis prematurely can lead to a very ill handling, unpredictable race car. Especially, when the T-bar touches the chassis through a very fast sweeper.

Email or PM for more information.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-torch1.jpg   1/12 forum-torch2.jpg   1/12 forum-torch3.jpg   1/12 forum-torch4.jpg  
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 6 (5 members and 1 guests)
Johnny Carey, Larryscooterman, RcHammer
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:00 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0