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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-15-2008, 06:14 PM   #29536
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Originally Posted by PutAwayWet View Post
The screw diameter isn't a problem. What you need to check is the depth of the head against the countersink on the underside of your chassis. My L4 takes nice countersunk screws with heads that drive with a 5/32 hex. I bought them at Ace Hardware. My CRC takes a shallower head that only comes in Phillips drive, so far as I know. Hobby shop item, only. If I use the hex head screws on the CRC they stick out the bottom. The countersink is too shallow. I don't know what the head is like on the Traxxas screws, or whether the Corally has a deep or shallow countersink on the chassis. Or your chassis, for that matter.
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

I have had a rev 4.5, a rev 5, and an 12L4. I bought some stainless steel 8-32 X 5/8ths screws. They had a 5/32nds hex head that was on the thick side. The 12L4 had a rather deep countersink, so everything sat flush. The rev's on the other hand have shallow countersinks in comparison. The solution?

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

Lunsford's titanium screw heads are shallow enough to even sit below the chassis on the rev 5. And theyre available in several lengths. the 5/8ths are perfect for 12th scale and the 7/8ths will work well with the taller arm stack on the WGT cars (the speedmerchant ones at least)

Word to the wise . . .on the rev's you DEFINITELY don't want to run an aluminum screw into the CF in the front end.
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:28 PM   #29537
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Originally Posted by Ferrarimk13 View Post
oh, and what bearings are you guys running? can someone recommend some rubber sealed bearings?
I like the ones at 360. $2 a bearing, cheap rubber sealed. You can't go wrong.
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:36 PM   #29538
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sweet, i should really get down to 360 sometime, but i have a lot of stuff going on now. Maybe ill be there winter time on some saturdays.
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Old 10-16-2008, 02:02 PM   #29539
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ft 12scale
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-12-scale-1.jpg   1/12 forum-12-scale-3.jpg   1/12 forum-12-scale-4.jpg   1/12 forum-12-scale.5.jpg   1/12 forum-12-scale-6.jpg  

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Last edited by BILL.D; 10-17-2008 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:42 PM   #29540
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Default Ftr 1/12

Well guys we are almost ready to release this car and If you like a Tbar you will love this one.

We were able to get more testing in with the car last night, the balance of the car is awesome it takes very little effort to tweak,we were able to make small adjustments to the car with the side springs on the dampener tubes,with that being said you were able simulate a stiffer tbar with out changing one.

We were also able to test the Crc front end verse the Ae front end,we found that the car performed well with both so I am sure it will suit either personal preference.

Stay tuned
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:45 PM   #29541
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Well guys we are almost ready to release this car and If you like a Tbar you will love this one.

We were able to get more testing in with the car last night, the balance of the car is awesome it takes very little effort to tweak,we were able to make small adjustments to the car with the side springs on the dampener tubes,with that being said you were able simulate a stiffer tbar with out changing one.

We were also able to test the Crc front end verse the Ae front end,we found that the car performed well with both so I am sure it will suit either personal preference.

Stay tuned
How long has it been in testing... and I like the idea of the springs on the dampener tubes.
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:50 PM   #29542
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How long has it been in testing... and I like the idea of the springs on the dampener tubes.

I know IRS used to have the springs on the damper tubes on the Rugrat. Not sure if they were the first or if the idea was borrowed from someone else.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:09 PM   #29543
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Word to the wise . . .on the rev's you DEFINITELY don't want to run an aluminum screw into the CF in the front end.
This is true. I have only seen a couple of drivers pull off the aluminum screws in the front of the Formula front arm successfully. I don't recommend it for club racing, unless you are going to use one-run tires all the time... If you do this, let me know, I will pay shipping for your cast-offs.

The Formula Rev.5 kit comes with stainless screws that have been undercut. The shallower countersink allows the screw to grip the material over a larger distance. Whether it is required or not is another story, Bruce uses an excellent grade of CF. It could probably have been mounted with smaller screws and gotten away with it, but this car was engineered with everyone in mind.. not just the uber wheels.

I use the Lunsford screws because I can't help but hack up the phillips screws... Otherwise, my car would be all standard issue.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:26 PM   #29544
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Steve we have had the car under testing for the last month,we have a nice carpet track pretty close so we have been able to go out pretty often.

You are correct IRS created the dampener concept we are trying.

.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:33 PM   #29545
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I use the Lunsford screws because I can't help but hack up the phillips screws... Otherwise, my car would be all standard issue.
WORD. I just use the Lunsfords so I don't have to tote around a stupid phillips head screwdriver. The car comes outta the box ready to dominate.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:41 PM   #29546
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I know IRS used to have the springs on the damper tubes on the Rugrat. Not sure if they were the first or if the idea was borrowed from someone else.
I'm not sure either. I do remember someone modifying the old HPI F1 front end to use damper tubes with springs many many years ago. Helped reduce the problem of the arm flex because the spring interacted with the outside of the arm rather then the middle of the arm.
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Old 10-16-2008, 05:51 PM   #29547
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Steve we have had the car under testing for the last month,we have a nice carpet track pretty close so we have been able to go out pretty often.

You are correct IRS created the dampener concept we are trying.

.
I can't wait.
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:37 PM   #29548
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Default WHAT THE HELL IS UP WITH PRS / PRECISION RACING SYSTEMS??

Jeez...

I've been waiting and waiting for PRS to clear backorders to Stormer for the larger pinions and smaller spurs so I can plop the 17.5 in my 1/12 car. Of course they're taking their sweet time about it.

Anybody know anyplace that has pinions in the high 40's through mid 50's and the 76t spurs in stock?
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:39 PM   #29549
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I know IRS used to have the springs on the damper tubes on the Rugrat. Not sure if they were the first or if the idea was borrowed from someone else.
Those are IRS tubes
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:41 PM   #29550
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Everywhere I've looked has been out of 40's pinions of all brands...I did find some 88T PRS spurs at RC4Less.
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