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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-15-2008, 06:59 AM   #29521
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depends on where you are in Canada because i haven't used a brush motor in my 1/12 for about 10 months
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:26 AM   #29522
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I noticed that IRS quit making their "lowered arms" has anyone tried to mod stock AE parts like them? What method did you use?
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:42 AM   #29523
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Originally Posted by scootr117 View Post
I noticed that IRS quit making their "lowered arms" has anyone tried to mod stock AE parts like them? What method did you use?
To do it properly would require a jig and a mill to make sure you don't affect caster and/or camber as you remove material. This is NOT a job most racers have the appropriate equipment for.

Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.

These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.

Scottrik
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:54 AM   #29524
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
To do it properly would require a jig and a mill to make sure you don't affect caster and/or camber as you remove material. This is NOT a job most racers have the appropriate equipment for.

Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.

These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.

Scottrik
Thanks for mentioning that Scottrik, as I was going to. This is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, because you will stress crack the arms in this area long before you have that inevitable meeting with the boards
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:02 AM   #29525
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I saw them, but didn't realize they would allow running smaller tires. Tower doesn't carry them so that eliminates the LHS from getting them......I will look online
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:48 AM   #29526
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I was wondering if the 4mm countersunk screw from Traxxas would work on the IRS new lower front arms. I heard a fellow racer do this to his Corally when he went to the IRS arms. I just want a general ideal if it will work before spending more than I need to.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:40 AM   #29527
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Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.

I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!

I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.

The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.

This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.

I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.

Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.

More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com

Brian
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:41 AM   #29528
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was wondering if the 4mm countersunk screw from Traxxas would work on the IRS new lower front arms. I heard a fellow racer do this to his Corally when he went to the IRS arms. I just want a general ideal if it will work before spending more than I need to.
The screw diameter isn't a problem. What you need to check is the depth of the head against the countersink on the underside of your chassis. My L4 takes nice countersunk screws with heads that drive with a 5/32 hex. I bought them at Ace Hardware. My CRC takes a shallower head that only comes in Phillips drive, so far as I know. Hobby shop item, only. If I use the hex head screws on the CRC they stick out the bottom. The countersink is too shallow. I don't know what the head is like on the Traxxas screws, or whether the Corally has a deep or shallow countersink on the chassis. Or your chassis, for that matter.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:14 PM   #29529
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Thanks for mentioning that Scottrik, as I was going to. This is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, because you will stress crack the arms in this area long before you have that inevitable meeting with the boards
If you head down to the local hardware store just pick up a
8-32 Thread Cutting Screw for a few pennies, and save your self the $10 for a tap when putting in the pilot threads on a brand new a-arm.



Thread cutting screws nomrally have a slight tapper on the outside diameter and the first few threads in that tapper have a slot(s) cut into them.
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:34 PM   #29530
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
To do it properly would require a jig and a mill to make sure you don't affect caster and/or camber as you remove material. This is NOT a job most racers have the appropriate equipment for.

Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.

These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.

Scottrik

The other great thing about these arms is that they are universal left and right. I found at least for me if I attach the caster block before threading the screw in then I don't have problems with the screw hole cracking.

I have noticed one issue with them that is irritating me though. They are not level left to right. The right side arm seems to be near .5mm lower then the left side. I'm not yet sure if it is the arm itself or the pivot ball placement in the arm. At first I thought it was the body moldings being off...but then I changed cars and the problem still existed. Once I figured out it was the arms I checked the 4 other cars running the IRS arms here and found they all had the same problem.
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Old 10-15-2008, 04:40 PM   #29531
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Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
If you head down to the local hardware store just pick up a
8-32 Thread Cutting Screw for a few pennies, and save your self the $10 for a tap when putting in the pilot threads on a brand new a-arm.



Thread cutting screws nomrally have a slight tapper on the outside diameter and the first few threads in that tapper have a slot(s) cut into them.
I guess if I was on my last couple nickels... As it is, I still believe the tap is the proper tool for the job, and as I said they're a whopping five or six bucks. Added benefit is you can hold the tap in a tap holder (or 3 jaw chuck or...) for additional leverage while tapping and not be wobbling around with a screwdriver or nut driver while working on this.

Then again, I guess you could grab the self-threading screw in a pair of Vise Grips...
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Old 10-15-2008, 04:51 PM   #29532
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was wondering if the 4mm countersunk screw from Traxxas would work on the IRS new lower front arms. I heard a fellow racer do this to his Corally when he went to the IRS arms. I just want a general ideal if it will work before spending more than I need to.
The head angle is different. Metric heads are usually 90 degree heads and the 8-32 screws available are 82 degree and i have also seen AE gold screws that are 100 degree heads.
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:34 PM   #29533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.

I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!

I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.

The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.

This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.

I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.

Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.

More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com

Brian
that sounds really great! for $100, you cant go wrong with such a beautiful chassis. If i had an associated, crc, or cefx, i would definitely add the conversion.
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:36 PM   #29534
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oh, and what bearings are you guys running? can someone recommend some rubber sealed bearings?
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:37 PM   #29535
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.

I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!

I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.

The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.

This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.

I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.

Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.

More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com

Brian
I have spent a great deal of time at CEFX raceway. I agree the Phoenix is a fantastic car!
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