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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-22-2008, 03:29 PM   #29401
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Suffer away amongst the palm trees and bikinis... would ya! It's getting grey and drippy already and with any luck we'll top 57F today. But without all those other worldly pleasures.... we race with toy cars.
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Old 09-22-2008, 03:59 PM   #29402
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Wish it was always that way Last two weeks have been really rainy...been fighting a sinus cold this whole time. I gotta say though...I've been really tempted to move on more then one occasion to get to an area that has some really good racing programs going on. Until recently we've not had a permanent on-road track because of property costs...the one that has cropped up recently seems more interested in having people just come and play rather then hosting races there. Still working on that. Also our full sized race track is getting much closer to getting approved and there is a very good possibility of a purpose built RC track getting built there as well...What remains to be seen is that it will be affordable for clubs to host races there or not.
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Old 09-23-2008, 04:43 AM   #29403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Now that would be icing on the cake

Possibly been raced/trailed in the UK

quote below from this site

Quote:
It was interesting to see Robin Schumacher walking around asking questions on the Saturday. Rumours of a Schumacher 12th on the way again after all these years? Well, the answer isnít a definite no at least. Lets see what happens. And if it does, you Ďve probably already seen the car, or at least a prototype of it.
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Old 09-23-2008, 04:57 AM   #29404
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I have a Hotbodies C12 and I run a 13.5 brushless with it
Iam having trouble with the car it spins out when coming out of corners help would be great
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:32 AM   #29405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete2 View Post
I have a Hotbodies C12 and I run a 13.5 brushless with it
Iam having trouble with the car it spins out when coming out of corners help would be great
Pete, what's your current set-up? Springs, tires, etc.
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:13 PM   #29406
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Question. I was painting my first 12th body and no matter what I tried I couldn't get paint in the fins at the rear of the body. How does everyone do it. I don't have a air brush.
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:50 PM   #29407
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If you dont have an airbrush, use a paint brush, hold the fins as wide open as you can without creasing the shell, and shove the paint in there.
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:49 PM   #29408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete2 View Post
I have a Hotbodies C12 and I run a 13.5 brushless with it
Iam having trouble with the car it spins out when coming out of corners help would be great
Does it only spin out one way? Or both? Post up your setup and I'm sure someone will be able to help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
Question. I was painting my first 12th body and no matter what I tried I couldn't get paint in the fins at the rear of the body. How does everyone do it. I don't have a air brush.
Yea thay are a pain, I just let the overspray from an AB or rattle can just tint that part; unless your entering a concourse its not that important.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:31 AM   #29409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFR View Post
Possibly been raced/trailed in the UK

quote below from this site
Thanks for quoting my report.

If any of you guys want to see what is going off in the UK BRCA National scene the quote is taken from my report on the first round of the 08-09 championships, along with photos and videos of the A mains. It is at www.carsrcracing.co.uk.

Unfortunately no photos of the possible Schumacher car, I've been asked not to. There's no confirmation as yet that it will actually happen either, but it is a possibility. I hope so too as I raced Schumacher 12th cars in the early 80's, even if I am an HB driver nowadays.

Trev
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:37 AM   #29410
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Battery Location in 12th

What are the pro's and con's of the different cell layouts used in 12th in handling terms? Particulary #3

1. [][]-[][] = Hot Bodies etc
2. [][][][] = BMI etc
3. ==== down the centre like Diggity Design
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:22 AM   #29411
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[QUOTE=chris moore;4873826]Does it only spin out one way? Or both? Post up your setup and I'm sure someone will be able to help.


spins out when turning left
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:28 AM   #29412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Pete, what's your current set-up? Springs, tires, etc.
black jaco front

white jaco back

spring standard (one that came with car)
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:07 AM   #29413
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[QUOTE=pete2;4878942]
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Does it only spin out one way? Or both? Post up your setup and I'm sure someone will be able to help.


spins out when turning left
Quite hard to tell for sure without seeing the car, but here are some things to look for if the car is handling differently left to right.

Tyres very different sizes left to right.
Different ride height spacing left to right, at front or rear (I have actually done this )
Seized rear axle bearing
Collapsed front spring
T bar tweak set incorrectly

There's probably more but this is a starting point.

Hope this helps.

Trev
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Old 09-26-2008, 12:44 PM   #29414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Battery Location in 12th

What are the pro's and con's of the different cell layouts used in 12th in handling terms? Particulary #3

1. [][]-[][] = Hot Bodies etc
2. [][][][] = BMI etc
3. ==== down the centre like Diggity Design

Well I'm no expert but I'll take a stab at it.

1) Saddle packs are necessary when the main suspension component (the T-Bar) runs down the center of the chassis. This way the weight is split evenly on both sides of the T-Bar. T-Bar suspension is the oldest and easiest type of suspension to design and works quite well.

2 & 3) These battery configurations bring the mass of the packs closer to the center. The main suspension components (the links) are on the outside of the chassis so they don't interferre with the battery configuration. Configuration 2 is the most common, used by BMI, Speed Merchant, CRC, and others. Configuration 3 brings the mass of the batteries the closest to the centerline possible. However it increases the front/rear weight biases.
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Old 09-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #29415
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[QUOTE=TrevCoult;4878988]
Quote:
Originally Posted by pete2 View Post

Quite hard to tell for sure without seeing the car, but here are some things to look for if the car is handling differently left to right.

Tyres very different sizes left to right.
Different ride height spacing left to right, at front or rear (I have actually done this )
Seized rear axle bearing
Collapsed front spring
T bar tweak set incorrectly

There's probably more but this is a starting point.

Hope this helps.

Trev
Yep my guess is your car is tweaked or out of balance due to one of the items Trev has listed. I'd check the tweak first as thats a common problem in 1/12.
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