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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-21-2008, 01:19 PM   #29386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
I was thinking i could shim the motor mount up a bit so the motor can clear the t-bar. if i could do this, i could slide the motor further towards the front to accomadate a bigger pinion.
I tried this too, it allowed the bigger pinion to be fitted but gave almost zero ride height!

Seriously, order some smaller spurs on line and get them delivered! far cheaper than a new chassis!
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:00 PM   #29387
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I get my 76 tooth spurs from Schumacher. You can call them or got to the website. www.racing-cars.com Last time I called they had a bunch.
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:23 PM   #29388
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
The link car(R5) is great on carpet!

If link cars are great on carpet why i didn't see anybody at Euros in this year?
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:42 PM   #29389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tral View Post
If link cars are great on carpet why i didn't see anybody at Euros in this year?
At our big races we see more linked cars.... next time you are at a race, ask why link/spring kits are not preferred. I know I prefer link on carpet and a t-plate MAY work best for asphalt but I will run link from now on.
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:48 PM   #29390
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Andrew, hy maak my dood! You're a science teacher, fix your sig!
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Old 09-21-2008, 08:15 PM   #29391
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Originally Posted by Tral View Post
If link cars are great on carpet why i didn't see anybody at Euros in this year?
Seems link cars just are not popular in Europe like they are here in the US. For some reason they still run a majority of t-plate cars.
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Old 09-21-2008, 11:23 PM   #29392
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Scott, what kind of warrantee came with your keyboard?

Hey all, Just wanted to let everyone know that Slapmaster Tools has been silently chugging along all summer long. Dealers have been popping up over seas, especially the European countries have been huge supporters of my little 12th scale accessory company. It's really been a fun ride as a racing career has gone full circle. Going from racer, to a hobby retailer, to researching and developing products that I feel make a difference. The entire package has been worth the ride.

Now comes the time to shift over to brushless motors exclusively. I hung on the brushed motor right to the tail end. And now that I dig all the brushed motor equipment out of the pit boxes that I would not leave home without, I now look at it and wonder what to do with it. I have com lathes, bags of brushes, more bags of springs, probably 10lbs worth of motors that will likely never see another volt. 96 & 100 spurs! Clean 'em out.

12th scale has had change all it's career. And yet it's still here. Many of us in the NW are gearing up for our NWIC races which hit five tracks in five months. I have a small team that will be representing the MS3. Its going to be another great mystery to figure out the new b/l motors, mix in some drag brake - steering set ups, and then figure out the front suspensions.

The link cars have really gained ground in the past season, but if there are any t-bar fans still left out there... listen to this: I have a rear socket that creates more rear grip without raking the bar. It's perfect for low to med grip, asphalt, or those pesty Jack tracks when your car gets loose at 6:30. It's a bolt in item that requires no mods what so ever. The 10th oval guys have been using them too. One racer claimed it added one full lap to his effort!

If anyone needs any more info on thrust kits, bumpers, LRCS, or the MS3.... drop a PM or email.

Brian - Slapmaster Tools
www.slapmastertools.com
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Old 09-22-2008, 05:33 AM   #29393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
and the answer was???
keep an eye on this thread
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Old 09-22-2008, 08:02 AM   #29394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I get my 76 tooth spurs from Schumacher. You can call them or got to the website. www.racing-cars.com Last time I called they had a bunch.
those are 78 spurs, but close enough.
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:06 AM   #29395
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My spurs are stamped 76, they are not?
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:18 AM   #29396
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No, Andrew is right... they are 76. I counted(measured) the teeth.
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Old 09-22-2008, 12:12 PM   #29397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Scott, what kind of warrantee came with your keyboard?

Hey all, Just wanted to let everyone know that Slapmaster Tools has been silently chugging along all summer long. Dealers have been popping up over seas, especially the European countries have been huge supporters of my little 12th scale accessory company. It's really been a fun ride as a racing career has gone full circle. Going from racer, to a hobby retailer, to researching and developing products that I feel make a difference. The entire package has been worth the ride.

Now comes the time to shift over to brushless motors exclusively. I hung on the brushed motor right to the tail end. And now that I dig all the brushed motor equipment out of the pit boxes that I would not leave home without, I now look at it and wonder what to do with it. I have com lathes, bags of brushes, more bags of springs, probably 10lbs worth of motors that will likely never see another volt. 96 & 100 spurs! Clean 'em out.

12th scale has had change all it's career. And yet it's still here. Many of us in the NW are gearing up for our NWIC races which hit five tracks in five months. I have a small team that will be representing the MS3. Its going to be another great mystery to figure out the new b/l motors, mix in some drag brake - steering set ups, and then figure out the front suspensions.

The link cars have really gained ground in the past season, but if there are any t-bar fans still left out there... listen to this: I have a rear socket that creates more rear grip without raking the bar. It's perfect for low to med grip, asphalt, or those pesty Jack tracks when your car gets loose at 6:30. It's a bolt in item that requires no mods what so ever. The 10th oval guys have been using them too. One racer claimed it added one full lap to his effort!

If anyone needs any more info on thrust kits, bumpers, LRCS, or the MS3.... drop a PM or email.

Brian - Slapmaster Tools
www.slapmastertools.com
Hey, Brian!

Where can I get the schedule for your winter series? I might try and make a couple of them.
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:47 PM   #29398
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Default Shortening wires

I am looking for some tips to clean up the wiring in my GenX. What is the best way to shorten the servo/transponder/speedo wires.

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:01 PM   #29399
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www.nwic2006.com is the series link. Don't be fooled but the '06, it's current. The last two dates have not been set yet. Oct 10-12 is at RC Plus in Salem, Or. Nov 14-16 is at Timezone II in La Center, Wa. Dec 12-14 is at Seattle Indoor Raceway in .... you guessed it.... Kent, Wa.

RC Plus has been around for 20+ years and is a well seasoned track, well run, very fun.

TimezoneII is the a private track housed in a purposely built building, the track measures 60x100. Massive and ton of fun! A must see and do. Could very well be the nicest permanent carpet in the country.

SIR is a recent host of the Roar Nat's. They have a convertible track that goes from carpet to asphalt and back. They are scheduled for new carpet. Again, another great facility.

On the books is a race in Richland, Wa hosted by Darren Shank and Westcoast Hobbies. Last years event was in the hotel ball room. Sleep, socialize & race all in one spot. It's scaled down IIC or Snowbirds. Brilliant!

New guy to the scene is Big Dads Raceway in outside of Portland Or. They hosted the first ever Xray Challenge just a few months back. This is a full time carpet track, parts & staff.

All of these races are supported by the occasional factory guy flown in from parts unknown. Plus we have some of our local factory guys that make regular appearances: Trav Schreven, Darren Shank, Ritchie Renolds, Dave Ehrlick, just crowned IIC Amateur Champ Richard St Cyr, I flog my stuff around and a host of others.

All races are set up with Fri practice, limited practice on Sat with 3 rounds, last chance round on Sun followed by mains. There are foam and rubber touring classes, 12th 13.5 class and usually a "host class". The host class can be anything the host is having fun with. Last season Big Dads had a Prerunner class that Joe Pillars attended for. It was a very spec class and very entertaining. I wouldn't be surprised to see a F-1 class at SIR, a foam truck class or oval at Richland, TZ2 can race either helis or blenders.... you just never know!

I suggest contacting the host you are interested in attending for further details.
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:23 PM   #29400
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Man you guys have got a lot going on out there! That's awesome! I can't wait for work to call me back out to Seattle so I can race with you guys again. Heck maybe I should move out there Oh but then my local electric on-road race would die...oh well...guess I just will have to suffer out here
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