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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 05-13-2003, 04:41 PM   #2926
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If spooky doesn't want your chassis I may be interested.

E-mail me what you are asking for it and a picture if you have one or at least what is included and what shape it is in.


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Old 05-13-2003, 07:42 PM   #2927
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Have at it Bobby, I could not bear to take the chassis off of my yokomo.

Thanks for the offer DPowell, but I am looking for the blue aluminum cross brace. The little carbon one that comes with the yok..really sux
Clean Title & Escrow|p3|TRF|Tamiya|SerpentAmerica|FSEARA|Team Butter|RC 3|Munno |RCTECH #29|EAMotorsports|BMI|Novak|SpeedPassion|RadioPost
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Old 05-13-2003, 11:57 PM   #2928
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akrcracer, the crc universal mounts wont help for putting the servo in. you will have to drill and counter sink a new hole, drill the hole for the left side(usa driver side) a few mm towards centre from the hole that already there.
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Old 05-14-2003, 04:31 AM   #2929
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The Shooters L3 chassis kit is not even their product, it is a Yokomo Sp2001 chassis , cross brace, upper/lower pod plates..... I know I have one on my 6-pack.... Love IT!!!
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:32 AM   #2930
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rctech tf
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Old 05-16-2003, 11:16 AM   #2931
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Default Speedmerchant info.

Hey guys,

I got some Speedmerchant kits (2), Chassis (3), and lots of spare parts in today. Just e-mail me and I'll see what I can do for you. I got these to support our club memebrs as we have no less than 10 Rev.3' running in the fall!!! Basically the entire A every week is nothing but Rev.3's!!! MAybe an L car or CRC slips in, but almost never in the top 4.

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Old 05-16-2003, 09:42 PM   #2932
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Originally posted by Tres

I have had some issues with the Monster motors....
The plate that holds the caps was not crimped tight.

I now solder all the points to the board where the crimps are along with the wire going to the screw.

Tres: I was very interested in this idea....I have had some major glitching with this motor. Question: What was the issues that promted you to solder? What was the results? I also suspect a design problem with those tabs. Alittle tire dust working it's way into the contact point can't be good...

I had a very good MS glitch badly after I had turned it. Took off the circuit board and soldered 3 regular caps in it's place. As you might guess...no glitch.
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Old 05-17-2003, 05:24 AM   #2933
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Graphitedust: Mine just started to glitch out of the blue.

I checked every every thing in the car, changed the motor, the glitch went away...

So I started looking closer at the motor, I got my meter out and had issues getting a good reading on the caps.

So basicly, I just did it as a test and it worked.
Once soldered, I was able check the caps with my meter with no issues..

But now, ALL my monster motors get soldered.
Mine appeared clean, I even tried to clean again...
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Old 05-17-2003, 05:02 PM   #2934
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Originally posted by stormperson
Right now there is only one body to run, the Parma lightweight Speed 8. trinity makes almost an exact copy of it, however it weighs twice as much and cracks really easy. protoform came out with the ascari (dont bother with ANY other body by them) however it wasnt roar legal, and you have to adjust your electronics to fit it since it is VERY slammed.

protoform drivers are all currently running the parma body (they ran they ascari at the birds since it wasnt a roar race though) since it is just that much better.
I'm deciding which body to get for my RC12 L3 that I'm saving up for now. Is the Ascari better than the Parma Speed 8?
Stormperson- when you said "since it is just that much better", did you mean that the Parma body was much better than any other Protoform body, or did you mean that the Ascari was much better than the Parma body? I couldn't really figure out what you ment. If I get the Ascari I won't have to repostion my electronics, all I would have to do is position them so they didn't hit the body. Is it difficult to position the electronics so they don't hit? I'm getting high quality electronics, a Novak GT7 or TC2 speedo, and a Futaba R123F reciever. What body's come with rear and front wheel wells marked? Do any bodys come with all 4 wheel wells marked in a position that would work with the RC12 L3? If they don't come marked, is it difficult to mark them your self? How do you guys do that? Here's my last question, does the Ascari come with over-spray film? Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-17-2003, 09:08 PM   #2935
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What would a car feel like if the tires were not rounded off correctly? Too square.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-17-2003, 10:52 PM   #2936
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any one run the trinity 1/12 ?
Team Gravity Rc - G's R/C Raceway and Hobbies - Waldorf RC - TheTrack
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Old 05-18-2003, 04:06 AM   #2937
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Originally posted by JSJ Racing
What would a car feel like if the tires were not rounded off correctly? Too square.

Any help would be appreciated.
The car doesnt feel any different, to me at least, its just that the tire chunks more easily. I find that as the rears wear, they lose their roundness. I dont notice a difference, though.
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:39 AM   #2938
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JSJ - the car will tighten up, just a little, and it is a little more difficult to turn tight, fast corners.
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Old 05-18-2003, 01:55 PM   #2939
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racerdx- sorry i wasnt clear. do not get the protoform, get the parma. the ascari might be okay with those electronics, however you just will need to play aroung with them to get them to fit. btw i would recommend getting the quantom competition over those esc's any day, espically in 12th scale. also i have heard of alot of assorted problems with GT7's even from novak team drivers.

as far as wheels wells and such... its really easy, and i dont think any come with premarked rears (however they are almost always premarked in the front, however you always want to check to make sure they are correct for your car). to do the wheel wells properly mount your body generally so the front wheel wells are correct and then (before or after paiting, before is easier though) line up a spare wheel to the wheel on the car and trace it on the body. then you should have generally the correct size and should have the exact correct placement if you did it correctly.
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Old 05-18-2003, 04:28 PM   #2940
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A lot people at my track run the GT7. They have not had any problems with it I think, I'll ask though. I've heard of people having more problems with the Quantum than any Novak speedo. What kind of problems did people run into with the GT7? Have you heard any problems with the TC2? Thanks!
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