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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-12-2008, 07:40 AM   #29296
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Hello Guys,
I would just like to ask how you know what rollout to use for this and that motor or is it what rollout for this or that track size?
Sorry for the newbie question, new to 12 scale racing
Thanks in advance!

Pinion Gear = (Rollout x SpurGear=96t) x (TireDia.=47.5 x pi=3.14)
Pinion Gear = (??x96) x (149.15)

Need to know how to get rollout, please...

Using 13.5 Orion Motor

Does the formula above correct?

Thanks again guys!!

Last edited by RC12; 09-12-2008 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:20 AM   #29297
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Hi guys

Just quickly - does anyone know the lb rating of the CRC Gold (standard on the T-Fource) centre spring? I've looked on their website and I can't find a rating.

Is it the same as the Associated Gold (12lb)??

And from that, does anyone know the ratings of the other CRC centre springs?

Many thanks
Oli
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:28 PM   #29298
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Default Shock

Hey there guys! I am new to 12th scale and I am having a tough time properly bleeding my center shock on my DB12r. I have the shock built and I just need to know if you fill the shock with oil and how much to bleed it. Any help would be wonderful!!! Thanks kindly.
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:36 PM   #29299
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The IRS shock that comes with the car comes with a small instruction sheet that makes building the shock easier. Follow those instructions and you'll find it works well. Basically you push down the o-ring assembly then use something to soak up the excess oil.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:23 PM   #29300
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Default shock

I tried to assemble like the instructions but when I tighten the shock cap the piston shaft comes all the way out and is very hard to compress. Is that normal??
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:29 PM   #29301
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Default shock

When I put the lower spring retainer on It will not compress enough to touch the shock cap. Is that the way that is supposed to work on onroad? I am just used to offroad where it will go all the way in the decompress a little. Any help would be great. thanks a ton
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:37 PM   #29302
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You still have too much oil in the shock. But, in use the shock won't compress the entire way.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:48 PM   #29303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Hi guys

Just quickly - does anyone know the lb rating of the CRC Gold (standard on the T-Fource) centre spring? I've looked on their website and I can't find a rating.

Is it the same as the Associated Gold (12lb)??

And from that, does anyone know the ratings of the other CRC centre springs?

Many thanks
Oli
It seems the spring rating are the same whatever the brand is

Here is a chart
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Old 09-13-2008, 07:50 PM   #29304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC12 View Post
Hello Guys,
I would just like to ask how you know what rollout to use for this and that motor or is it what rollout for this or that track size?
Sorry for the newbie question, new to 12 scale racing
Thanks in advance!

Pinion Gear = (Rollout x SpurGear=96t) x (TireDia.=47.5 x pi=3.14)
Pinion Gear = (??x96) x (149.15)

Need to know how to get rollout, please...

Using 13.5 Orion Motor

Does the formula above correct?

Thanks again guys!!
Here's what I use for 12th scale roll out

(tire diameter x 3.14) / (spur / pinion) = rollout

or for pinion

(spur x rollout) / (tire size x 3.14) = pinion

so you where very close.

For a 13.5 I would start at 60mm or so
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:10 PM   #29305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
Here's what I use for 12th scale roll out

(tire diameter x 3.14) / (spur / pinion) = rollout

or for pinion

(spur x rollout) / (tire size x 3.14) = pinion

so you where very close.

For a 13.5 I would start at 60mm or so
Great! Thank you very much sir!
I think I used 32 or 33 rollout...maybe thats why my 13.5 runs like a johnson silver can
Will try that rollout, thank you!!
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Old 09-14-2008, 08:14 AM   #29306
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Default shur lube

Hey there guys! Can anyone help me out with the ratings on the windtunnel shur lube what is the #s in correlation to the weights. For example what weight is the #3,4,5 shur lube? any help is much appreciated. Thanks
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Old 09-14-2008, 08:14 AM   #29307
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Which of the body do you think would be best for asphalt racing?

Here are the bodies I'm thinking of buying...
Protoform 1/12 Speed 12 GTP Body
Protoform Speed 12b Body
Parma 1/12 Speed 8 HD Body
Parma 1/12 Speed 8 HD Light Body

Stock 17.5 13.5 & 10.5 = ?? Body ??

Open Mod= ?? Body ??

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-14-2008, 08:49 AM   #29308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC12 View Post
Which of the body do you think would be best for asphalt racing?

Here are the bodies I'm thinking of buying...
Protoform 1/12 Speed 12 GTP Body
Protoform Speed 12b Body
Parma 1/12 Speed 8 HD Body
Parma 1/12 Speed 8 HD Light Body

Stock 17.5 13.5 & 10.5 = ?? Body ??

Open Mod= ?? Body ??

Thanks in advance!
Since asphalt is low traction my guess would be Speed 8 HD as the HD stand for high downforce
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:00 AM   #29309
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any suggestions on tires? indoor asphalt track. layout is more flowing than technical. on rubber tire touring we use Sorex 36 with medium inserts.

appologies for the noob question... just starting out on 12th scale...
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:57 AM   #29310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
Since asphalt is low traction my guess would be Speed 8 HD as the HD stand for high downforce
All asphalt is not low traction; the asphalt I run on is indoor. High traction just about all the time. Just ask the guys who were here for 2007 ROAR Nats
We're using Speed 8's or 12B's. I'm gonna go with a Speed 8HD on Wednesday and compare it to the Speed 8 I run. I would think in Stock (17.5) you would want the car a bit 'free-r'. On high bite the 8HD would prolly slow the car down too much.
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