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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-14-2008, 05:10 PM   #29146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
I just put my 12R5 together and had absolutely no problems with the build. One of the smoothest kits I have ever built.
Good to know. I ordered mine last week, and the LHS got it today, it should be at my place tomorrow!

For 10.5BL what is a good Spur to use to get a wide range of gearing options? My LHS is 3 hours away, so I can't just test some...
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:12 PM   #29147
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76-84 tooth should be plenty for the 12r5
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Old 08-14-2008, 07:39 PM   #29148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
My LHS is 3 hours away, so I can't just test some...
When your LHS is three hours away, you no longer have to say that they are "local" anymore.

Steve
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Last edited by corallyman; 08-15-2008 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:24 PM   #29149
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
When your LHS is three hours away, you no longer have to say there "local" anymore.

Steve
Hehe, true. There is an "LHS" here but they blow. I vowed to purchase the majority of my parts from my 3 hour away LHS instead because Ian the shop owner has been so helpful, and without his knowledge and support, I would have left the hobby because of another nameless hobbyshop near his. Shameless plug for Elite Hobby Shop in Covina, CA. If your near them, please check them out.
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Old 08-15-2008, 12:06 AM   #29150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Good to know. I ordered mine last week, and the LHS got it today, it should be at my place tomorrow!

For 10.5BL what is a good Spur to use to get a wide range of gearing options? My LHS is 3 hours away, so I can't just test some...
For the roll outs we run (55-65) with 10.5 an 88t spur is ideal
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:31 PM   #29151
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I forgot to ask, is that 32 or 64pitch?
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:03 PM   #29152
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64 pitch
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:20 PM   #29153
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Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:31 PM   #29154
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car
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:09 AM   #29155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
For the roll outs we run (55-65) with 10.5 an 88t spur is ideal
Hmm ok. That seems high, but I am new to this. I run a fairly large outdoor track for electric vehicles, compared to the indoor tracks in most of the US. Its about 80x 120 ft or so. Novak recommends a rollout of 51mm for 10.5 BL. I was thinking of 30-40t 64p pinions with the 88t 64p spur, but with your rollout recommendation I would need to get even bigger pinions. Ill see if anyone else at the track runs BL and what they have found for rollout recommendations. I don't want to waste $50 on the wrong pinions. The Jaco Prism wheels start at 48mm and I think should run down to just about 40mm diameter.
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:35 AM   #29156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Hmm ok. That seems high, but I am new to this. I run a fairly large outdoor track for electric vehicles, compared to the indoor tracks in most of the US. Its about 80x 120 ft or so. Novak recommends a rollout of 51mm for 10.5 BL. I was thinking of 30-40t 64p pinions with the 88t 64p spur, but with your rollout recommendation I would need to get even bigger pinions. Ill see if anyone else at the track runs BL and what they have found for rollout recommendations. I don't want to waste $50 on the wrong pinions. The Jaco Prism wheels start at 48mm and I think should run down to just about 40mm diameter.
Novak's rollout recommendations are extremely conservative. Not sure why you think you would need bigger pinions, with tires right out of the box you would get 51mm with the 30 tooth all the way up to 68 with a 40tooth pinion.

Unless your track has extremely high traction you won't want to run really small tires. I like to run the rears at about 46mm but for club racing start them at 47 or 48 for economy. You certainly will not want to run them down to 40mm, the rubber is only 1mm thick at that diameter. We don't usually run them that small even on high bite carpet
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:38 AM   #29157
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Go to bed old man all I need to hear on the driver's stand tomorrow is how your tired!
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:59 AM   #29158
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Ah, I was reading my Excell chart wrong. Your right, 30-40t pinion should work fine. The Jaco Prisms I bought start at 48mm diameter. Thanks for the heads up on not running to 40mm. Ill try it just to see why not, and it won't hurt anything but some practice time.
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:28 PM   #29159
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I can't remember where I saw this discussed before, but this seems like the most appropriate place for it now. I will be testing a mongoose ESC with a Rev 5 and a 540 sized 17.5 here shortly. Any of you math people have any comments as to why this would not work based on the watts, current, voltage, rpm/v information? Heres what I found comparing the 380 sized 8.5mongoose motor to the 540 sized 17.5 Novak SS motor. Also keep in ind we will run the mongoose on 4 cells, or 4.8 volts as opposed to the 11+ volts the mongoose esc is rated for . . . Ill kepp y'all up to date. : )


Mongoose 8.5 Micro Motor

Motor-
THREE-80 MICRO PRO BRUSHLESS MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Turns: 8.5 (#3450), 10.5 (#3451), 13.5 (#3452)
Design: Sensor-based
Input Voltage: 2-3 cell Li-Po or 4-9 cells Ni-MH/Ni-Cd(1.2 volts/cell)
Watts: 210 (#3450), 165 (#3451), 125 (#3452)
Kv (unloaded): 9,000 (#3450), 7,300 (#3451), 6,000 (#3452)
Motor Size: 380 size: 1.02" D x 1.48" L (26 D x 37.7 L mm)
Motor Weight with wires: 2.54 oz. (72 grams)
Shaft Diameter: 1/8" [accepts all existing pinion gears]
Bearing Size: Oversized (1/2" x 3/16") Front; Standard Rear (7mm x 3mm)
Protection: Thermal
Magnet: Sintered Nickel-plated Neodymium (one-piece, multi-pole cylindrical)




Novak 540 17.5 ss MotorSS PRO BRUSHLESS MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Turns: 8.5 (#3408)
10.5 (#3410)
13.5 (#3413)
17.5 (#3417)
21.5 (#3421)

Design: Sensor-based
Motor Size: 540 Size: 2.08 L X 1.41 D (52.8 x 35.8 mm)

Input Voltage: 4-7 cells (1.2V/cell or 4.8-8.4 total volts) [input voltage of GTB is 4-6 cells]
Magnet: Nickel-plated, Sintered, high-strength Neodymium

Watts: 280 (#3408)
235 (#3410)
195 (#3413)
130 (#3417)
85 (#3421)

KV (unloaded): 5,000 (#3408)
4,200 (#3410)
3,300 (#3413)
2,200 (#3417)
1,800 (#3421) RPM/Volt

Motor Size: 540 Size: 2.08 L X 1.41 D (52.8 x 35.8 mm)

Motor Weight: 6.61 oz. (187 grams)

Shaft Diameter: 1/8 [accepts all existing pinion gears]

Front Bearing Size: 1/2 x 3/16 (12.7x4.8mm)

Timing Ring: Black (#3408, #3417 & #3421), Blue (#3410), Orange (#3413)

Protection: Thermal
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:44 PM   #29160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
Is the Orion one, the one that Express Motorsports is doing?
Nope. From the Team Express page for the 17.5 brushless "Our Brushless motors are OEM based thru Trinity which are FEIGAO based motors."

http://www.express-motorsports.net/c...products_id=59
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