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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-12-2008, 12:58 AM   #29131
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim View Post
Thanks guys!

Steve, you read my mind! While I was painting those I kept thinking about the Rothmans cars. :-) Next on the list.



...Jim
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Nice!!!!!!!!!! Please post pics when you finish painting that badboy.

Steve
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:03 AM   #29132
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Never liked the Rothmans much...always prefered the Newman, Canon, and Renown
HOW DARE YOU!!!! Just kidding.

I was recently going through my beta collection from the early to mid eighties, and imagine my suprise when I came across a long forgotten tape.

The 1000KM of Monza, Rothman Porsches against Lancia Martini's.....sweet

Steve
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:15 AM   #29133
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Perfect thank you JamesArluck I was thinking it was Trinity but not that one.

Hi Steve, I bought this a few months ago and am just now getting around to thinking about running it so I wanted to look for some of the lower front arms, thay are quite different than the standard Assoc one's. If you have any or know of a site that has them lmk.

Thanks
Chris
Chris,

I really don't have any arms that are not needed, but I do have three of the cars and I am going to be selling them shortly. I believe I can get you the part number if that helps you at all.

Steve
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:51 AM   #29134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
Is the Orion one, the one that Express Motorsports is doing?
It might be the orion ones seem to be top dog in the speed department at my tracks
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Old 08-12-2008, 03:04 PM   #29135
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Default 1/12th weight 800 gms limit in the Uk

A lot of 1/12th total racing weight is near to the 875 gms many over 900 gms
This is a mighty burden between 9% ---12% over weight.
1.How does this impair performance
2.Car handling
3.Tyre wear
4.Extra down force.
5.Braking
6.Acceleration

Any one have any opinions on this ,or does weight not really matter.

Correct me if iam wrong Uk we run at 800 gms USA is 850 gms ?????? is that correct.If so why 2 weight limits.
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:58 PM   #29136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tellan View Post
A lot of 1/12th total racing weight is near to the 875 gms many over 900 gms
This is a mighty burden between 9% ---12% over weight.
1.How does this impair performance
2.Car handling
3.Tyre wear
4.Extra down force.
5.Braking
6.Acceleration

Any one have any opinions on this ,or does weight not really matter.

Correct me if iam wrong Uk we run at 800 gms USA is 850 gms ?????? is that correct.If so why 2 weight limits.
I read that IFMAR just increased the minimum weight of their 1/12th scale class to 876 grams. In the US, ROAR still has the 1/12th scale class minimum weight at 794 grams. I also saw that for the IIC in Vegas in two weeks, the 1/12th minimum weight will be set at the IFMAR 876 number. I think the increase in minimum weight is to support the brushless platform as they are much heavier than a brushed system. I am sure that ROAR will adjust their minimum weights soon.
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:34 PM   #29137
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Scotty announced a minimum weight of 865 grams on the IIC home page:

"1/12th Scale weight: As our industry continues to change, unfortunately some of our rules are a bit slow to change with the times. 1/12th scale weight is one of these. The current weight I had posted of 794 grams is not a realistic weight in these times of Brushless motor systems. So I am changing the minimum weight to the current IFMAR Legal weight of 865 grams. This is what will be used for the World Championships this year and we will be using the same weight for this years IIC."

Don't know if this has been changed somewhere else, this is the only written statement on the weight that I have seen
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Old 08-13-2008, 09:16 AM   #29138
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O.D. You have a PM

thanks
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:25 AM   #29139
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I just broke some of the ears on my JR z3650 servo and cannot find replacement parts for it or the case. If you have a non functioning z3650 and are willing to part with the case or top plate let me know how much.

If unsure how it looks here is a pic
http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Def...odID=JRPSZ3650
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Old 08-14-2008, 07:48 AM   #29140
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I am almost (but not quite) certain that the 3650 servo uses the same case as the 3550 servo--a quick call to Horizon support would likely confirm this.

The 3550 case is readily available to any shop that deals with Horizon (ie most of 'em) or you can order it direct yourself. The item link at Horizon is http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=JRPSCZ3550 and the part number is JRPSCZ3550.

Horizon's toll free number is 800-338-4639 to enquire about compatibility. Then again, for the whopping $5 investment I'd order one in at my local and give 'er a shot. If it works order another to have in your box because those servos DO shed ears.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:44 PM   #29141
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Default new 1/12

hey guys. I am in the market for a new 1/12th scale and was looking for feedback from all you pros out there on what one I should go with. thanks
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Old 08-14-2008, 01:16 PM   #29142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
hey guys. I am in the market for a new 1/12th scale and was looking for feedback from all you pros out there on what one I should go with. thanks
Get a CRC Gen X. You can't go wrong there.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:31 PM   #29143
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hey guys. I am in the market for a new 1/12th scale and was looking for feedback from all you pros out there on what one I should go with. thanks
Any one is good. Each has Pro's and Con's. I like the DB12R because it doesn't tweak and is a real good price for everything you get. The Rev5 and Gen-X are real good too. I just am not a fan of suspensions that depend on little springs.
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:44 PM   #29144
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hey guys. I am in the market for a new 1/12th scale and was looking for feedback from all you pros out there on what one I should go with. thanks
I'm a big fan of the BMI DB12R, excelent quality and the kit comes with all the best upgrades. I have heard of some build issues with the new 12R5, but those may be resolved now.
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:54 PM   #29145
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I just put my 12R5 together and had absolutely no problems with the build. One of the smoothest kits I have ever built.
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