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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-04-2008, 10:53 PM   #29101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrcguy View Post
Im a bit new to running 1/12th scales. I started out running only Parma tires. Magenta FR / Coral R. This past weekend I tried Jaco Pinks. I seems like the Jacos are a lot less durable. With the Parmas I get almost no chunking at all. The Jacos got really chunked really quick with very few board incidents.

Has any one else seen this?
Just stay off the boards. Ok joking aside I have'nt run the Parmas so hopefully someone else can chime in with another compairison.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:34 PM   #29102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrcguy View Post
Im a bit new to running 1/12th scales. I started out running only Parma tires. Magenta FR / Coral R. This past weekend I tried Jaco Pinks. I seems like the Jacos are a lot less durable. With the Parmas I get almost no chunking at all. The Jacos got really chunked really quick with very few board incidents.

Has any one else seen this?
And I found it the other way round - Jaco yellow/2x pink chunked less than Parma grey/magenta!! I reckon it has something to do with the rubber compounds, but I agree that if you don't hit the boards, or other cars, it doesn't happen. I also find my lap times are faster...
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:35 PM   #29103
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I have found that most of my chunking comes from how well the body is cut and mounted and how wide the rear of the car is. I noticed that at full width, 172 mm, the rear tires were almost even with the body. When I narrowed my rear axle I eliminated almost all my chunking problems. I don't know the offsets of those two tires you mentioned but the thought crossed my mind that the jacos might stick out a mm or two more than the parmas allowing the rear wheel cutout in the body to "sit" down on the tire in some situations cutting a chunk out of the foam.
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Old 08-05-2008, 01:47 AM   #29104
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Parma/GRP wheels have a 2.5mm offset and the Jaco Prisms 3mm.

Over here the Parmas I tried on the 38mm wheels just disintegrated thro the course of the night, and that's without hitting the markers! The Jaco's have been virtually chunk free and i've been giving them a hammering over the last 6 months. I've also found the Jacos are more consistent from one set to the next whereas Parma/GRP can have varying hardness tyres labelled up the same. A bit of a problem when you bolt on a set of tyres and the car behaves completely differently.

Jaco's also cost quite a bit less than any other make in the UK!
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:27 AM   #29105
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I run 1 set of tires per round now and have found doing that has reduced the amount of chunking I get. The Jaco foams start to pull away from the rims at the outside edge so by running 1 set per round they pull away less and I have time between race days to re-glue them.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:30 AM   #29106
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Hi,
Could anyone tell me what rollout I should run using a Team Orion Vortex Race (2008 version) 5.5 turn on a pretty large indoor carpet track (at Chesterfield)? If it helps I ran an Orion V2 Element 19 turn there at about 51-53mm/rev.
Thanks,
Alexander
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:19 AM   #29107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Wojtecki View Post
Hi,
Could anyone tell me what rollout I should run using a Team Orion Vortex Race (2008 version) 5.5 turn on a pretty large indoor carpet track (at Chesterfield)? If it helps I ran an Orion V2 Element 19 turn there at about 51-53mm/rev.
Thanks,
Alexander

Alexander

with my Nosram 5.5t Sintered i ran at (34mm/r) at chesterfield but the orion is probably different so i would try going to http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=22 as i know a few guys from Chesterfield post on there regularly so they might be able to help if no one here can, good luck

Steve
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:23 AM   #29108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
Alexander

with my Nosram 5.5t Sintered i ran at (34mm/r) at chesterfield but the orion is probably different so i would try going to http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=22 as i know a few guys from Chesterfield post on there regularly so they might be able to help if no one here can, good luck

Steve
Thanks Steve,

I've posted there, but so far I don't think that anyone has run the Orion, and so nobody can tell me what gearing to run. I guess I'll try the same rollout as what Chris Kerswell ran with his Peak 5.5, which I guess should be the most similar to the Orion.

Alexander
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:34 AM   #29109
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Alexander

drop me a PM with your email as one of the guys i race with has been running the Vortex 5.5 and when i see him next i'll ask him what mm/r he been using, probable won't see him for a couple of weeks so if you can't wait i might be able to get you the details you need.

steve
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:07 AM   #29110
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Default Please dont flame the newb.........

Since the only track thats left to race in my area is now indoor 60x30 track I am switching from 1/10 TC to 1/12 scale. (If any one wants to run TC see my Sale for TC)

Having browsed the forum the AE kit and BMI kit seemed to be very well liked but I was also looking at the CRC Gen X. I will be racing stock brushless on 60x30 carpet indoor.

Which kit is best suited to indoor carpet?
Which kit has better versatility on setup options?
Which kit (if any) is better built than the others?
Which kit has most hop ups straight out of the box?

Being new to 1/12 scale are there any specific things to know when building the car, i.e shim here or there, where its not detailed in the manual?

Thanks for taking the time to answer, I know that a lot of people come onto the forum asking which is the best kit, but without your knowledge and insight its very difficult to choose when moving to a new class. So thanks in advance for your input.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:29 AM   #29111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
Which kit is best suited to indoor carpet?
Which kit has better versatility on setup options?
Which kit (if any) is better built than the others?
Which kit has most hop ups straight out of the box?

Being new to 1/12 scale are there any specific things to know when building the car, i.e shim here or there, where its not detailed in the manual?
1. all the current crop of 1/12 are good all around cars
2. they all have a multitue of setup options. because a .010" shim here or there make a world of difference in 1/12
3. really the bmi kit is second to none when it come to build quality
4. Jason picks all the best hop ups and put them into the box

the best advise on 1/12 is to measure each step of the way. like I said .010" makes a big deal. so measure everything left to right, front to back
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:47 AM   #29112
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Selling a Corally sp12X if anyone is interested check out the forsale section or pm me ...

Thanks

Joe
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:56 AM   #29113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
Since the only track thats left to race in my area is now indoor 60x30 track I am switching from 1/10 TC to 1/12 scale. (If any one wants to run TC see my Sale for TC)

Having browsed the forum the AE kit and BMI kit seemed to be very well liked but I was also looking at the CRC Gen X. I will be racing stock brushless on 60x30 carpet indoor.

Which kit is best suited to indoor carpet?
Which kit has better versatility on setup options?
Which kit (if any) is better built than the others?
Which kit has most hop ups straight out of the box?

Being new to 1/12 scale are there any specific things to know when building the car, i.e shim here or there, where its not detailed in the manual?

Thanks for taking the time to answer, I know that a lot of people come onto the forum asking which is the best kit, but without your knowledge and insight its very difficult to choose when moving to a new class. So thanks in advance for your input.

Good thoughts allready provided by theisgroup, many times I've seen the adage that link cars(gen-x) work best on carpet and t-bar(assoc) are better on asphalt. This may be true for the top 1% of drivers but I've driven both, as well as the new BMI, and for most avg racers either style can be setup to be effective on either surface. I personally have found the BMI car to be excelent, but find out what is the most popular car a the track. It'll be easier to get yourself up to speed if you can get help from guys running the same car.
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:02 PM   #29114
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I would say to have a look at what the other club members are running and maybe go with one of them. Most of the 12th kits out there are really good quality nowadays with many upgrades included in the box. I looked at one of the BMI and CRC cars and both look sweet. Stay away from the SP12X though because it is a great car, but has a couple of soft areas that break easy and expensive to repair. You'll get great help from other club members regarding building and setup if you get one of the cars that they are using. Cheers mate, Chris.
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Old 08-10-2008, 06:50 PM   #29115
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Some 1/12th bodies just finished up!

...Jim
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