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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-21-2008, 03:20 PM   #29056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post
Was wondering if someone could clear something up for me.

I'll be buying a C12 within the next few weeks and was wondering what tyres i should get. We race on carpet and not sure which JACO tyres i should get. I dont undertand the whole purple, pink compounds.

Hi Kid tt-01

I put my 12r5 on your track after racing on Sunday and found that i had plenty of grip using my standard setup and a 19 turn. I was using speed mind foams 32r and 35f. I found that a 19 turn was a bit to slow around the track due to the higher traction than IMCC.
Also i found this chart that might help with tyre identification, it is only a starting point.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:51 PM   #29057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicMarker View Post
Hey Guy,
I came on here to look for someone running lipo in 12th scale. I see there is quite a bit of discussion. I dont want to mod anything or buy new speedo to get it to work.
Has anyone used a 1 cell lipo with a receiver pack? I would appreciate any help and what works.
Thanks Marker
Hey, anything's possible. I think 1-cell lipo would make it easier (more options) to find a motor that gives the desired power characteristics. The reason I won't be exploring that avenue myself is I think it ADDS complexity with the receiver pack rather than makes things simpler which is my own aim.

Have at it though and let us know what you find out!!
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Old 07-21-2008, 04:20 PM   #29058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Hey, anything's possible. I think 1-cell lipo would make it easier (more options) to find a motor that gives the desired power characteristics. The reason I won't be exploring that avenue myself is I think it ADDS complexity with the receiver pack rather than makes things simpler which is my own aim.

Have at it though and let us know what you find out!!
Was kinda hoping someone had already tried it and could tell me what to do. If I get any info - I'll post it and what parts I used so peeps can duplicate my results and have fun with it.

L8R Marker
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Old 07-21-2008, 04:40 PM   #29059
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One thing to keep in mind here is that some people like to experiment and push the envelope. In my case the 1/12 scene is totally dead here, I have'nt run any of my 1/12 cars in over two months and those runs were only practice runs at that. I have nothing but time to play with different kinds of cells and motors with no racing going on. In cases like mine; with long layoffs; a lipo solution for club racing only would be a very good thing. We all are in agreement that nimh cells are best for racing, bit messing with different cells and such is fun.

Just to add to the confusion and bring around another type of cell technology here is an old thread by Trailranger on LiFeP04 cells. I just received two packs of these cells and will be trying these out as soon as possible.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...ostcount=28686
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:17 PM   #29060
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What make and compound tires are you using on Asphalt?
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:57 PM   #29061
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We race on Asphalt but I think alot about the compound you choose will depend on how you prep the track. Is it indoor our outdoor? And last, what motors are you running?

Ours is outdoor and we wash it down with water before the racing to get it clean and dust free. Then after it dries I spray it down with straight grape soda.

We run stock 27 turn only in our 12th scale program. Most of us use Pink rear and Magenta fronts and we have tons of grip with good wear.
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:22 PM   #29062
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We race at the Outdoor RROL Track in London Ontario Canada. Asphalt has just been sealed. Prep with Pop. We run 19T/10.5. Thanks for the information.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:22 PM   #29063
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Default Brushless GTB on Gen X

Just bought a GTB brushless, not the GTB SS version.

Having issues with laying everything out on the car. I have a small servo, Hitec HS-5245MG. I have taken the fan and heat sink off the GTB, does anyone know if it is ok to run the ESC like this for 4cell 13.5 ?

Any help is great.

thanks

s
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:22 AM   #29064
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They do make a 4-cell version of the GTB....

The 4-cell version of the GTB still has an aluminum plate over the top of the fets for heat. I'd find something that you can put over the top to help draw heat from the chips. There are also some other subtle differences with the 4-cell version, too.
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:38 AM   #29065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satish View Post
Just bought a GTB brushless, not the GTB SS version.

Having issues with laying everything out on the car. I have a small servo, Hitec HS-5245MG. I have taken the fan and heat sink off the GTB, does anyone know if it is ok to run the ESC like this for 4cell 13.5 ?

Any help is great.

thanks

s
As timmay noted you need to have a cover on the esc, look back a bit in this thread and you'll find a post on some covers a guy was making from plate alum. As for the layout the best way is to put the GTB on the right side(looking at the car from the front) and the cap and receiver on the left side. This will provide the best side-to-side balance.
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Old 07-22-2008, 03:16 PM   #29066
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1/12 has been making a come back in the last couple of years. From that angle, I say if it isn't broke, don't fix it. I'm not against lipo AT ALL, so I hope things eventually get worked out. From what I understand, there may be some battery technologies that would put us close to 4.8v arriving soon. I'm hoping that the correct voltage will come to us, vs. changing everything to fit something that isn't exactly what 1/12 needs to maintain the current standard.

OTOH, if you can work something out for yourself, go for it. It may be way cooler than anybody knows:
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:56 AM   #29067
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Any recommend what shock oil to use on the Cyclone 12 for a medium - high grip carpet track ?
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:12 AM   #29068
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much more 450
std spring
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Old 07-24-2008, 12:40 PM   #29069
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Hello everyone, I have been reading this forum for while and I have a few questions. First, if I have read correctly, the Lipo guys are running two cell packs?, Second, are they using a smaller motor and speed controller, and if so, how do you mount this on the pod of the car?
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Old 07-24-2008, 01:11 PM   #29070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDK View Post
Hello everyone, I have been reading this forum for while and I have a few questions. First, if I have read correctly, the Lipo guys are running two cell packs?, Second, are they using a smaller motor and speed controller, and if so, how do you mount this on the pod of the car?
You were reading about people taking a chance with a new technology to test and see if the combination is viable. If you are really willing to do testing, more power to you. For now your best bet would be to run Nimh and whatever motors are legal at your local track. The newer cells (green ones) are more reliable than the ones sold for the past 2+ years and have decent power..
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