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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-21-2008, 04:29 AM   #29041
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Was wondering if someone could clear something up for me.

I'll be buying a C12 within the next few weeks and was wondering what tyres i should get. We race on carpet and not sure which JACO tyres i should get. I dont undertand the whole purple, pink compounds.
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Old 07-21-2008, 05:21 AM   #29042
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The HB C12 is a great car... You can start with Grey or Yellow in the rear and Purple or Lilac in the front. It is a little hard to say which tires you must use because it also depends on the type of carpet, driving skills, motor etc. but these compounds will get you on track to start with. It would be better to go to your track and ask other 12th scale racers which tires they race with and then use these compounds too...

Be aware that the HB C12's rear axle has a minor problem with the JACO Prism wheels. These wheels have a -3mm offset and since the C12 axle is not adjustable you can run into a problem fitting these wheels. I have had a C12 and I have replaced the stock rear axle for a IRS version from Team Associated. You can also use a CRC rear axle or a similar type. These axles are made from graphite and will also be lighter than the stock C12 axle plus they can be adjusted in track width so you can compensate the -3mm offset of the Prism wheels.

Another part of the C12 that is very fragile are the front axles. They really DO snap like a twig when hitting the border. You can easily solve this problem by mounting a set of Asso/CRC steering blocks with a set of stub axles in steel or titanium. Trust me on this one, these modifications will make the car better.

Here are some part numbers for you...

IRS 1/12th Associated Style Large D-Ring Graphite Axle Assembly (purple)
# IRS2132P


CRC steering block front end
# 1251


CRC steel stub axle set - threaded
# 1235


Hope this will help you on track...

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Old 07-21-2008, 05:26 AM   #29043
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hi guys do ı have to buy rc12I4 or rc12r5, ı don't understand the difference between these two models which one is more effective?
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Old 07-21-2008, 05:37 AM   #29044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
The HB C12 is a great car... You can start with Grey or Yellow in the rear and Purple or Lilac in the front. It is a little hard to say which tires you must use because it also depends on the type of carpet, driving skills, motor etc. but these compounds will get you on track to start with. It would be better to go to your track and ask other 12th scale racers which tires they race with and then use these compounds too...

Joost.
At the moment there isnt a class at our club yet a few of us are wanting to get it up and running. As for the carpet they are industrial square tiles. Motor ill be using is a 10.5.

Thanks for the imput and has cleared a few things up.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:06 AM   #29045
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Okay, then the compounds I mentioned are a start for you... It is a matter of trying which is the best compound for the surface on your track...
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:14 AM   #29046
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@kid TT-01 - you can start with the compounds Joost K. just advised you and then depending from performance go on with others, this could be hepfull - http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/index.php...d=15&Itemid=30
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:56 AM   #29047
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I too was one of the naysayers who was quick to claim that 1/12th scale cars won't handle with lipos because the cars need the weight of standard type batterys in order to make some grip. But I was wrong. The car I drove with the featherweight lipo and micro 1/18th speedo and tiny motor.......it drove almost identical to my normally equipped genX. So those who proclaim that we need the weight to make the cars work are just incorrect. I thought that was the case too, but having tried it, I was as surprised as anybody to find that the ultra light car worked just fine........with normal tires on it and without changing the setup hardly at all. So I do think it's at least worth experimenting with further. Obviously we race within the current rules. But the future is coming and it's probably good to not stick one's head in the sand and pretend or hope that change won't eventually find us.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:02 AM   #29048
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so what do you guys think about running 1/12 on asphalt?
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:26 PM   #29049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Quite a few pretty broad statements here. I take it you've tried this? I guess I'll find out for myself what "will" and what "won't". And with the proper motor power the fact the voltage is different is moot. I would be the last to propose running them together.

Oh, and if weight is the only problem, there's a cure for that. I've got enough lead flashing to double the weight of my entire 1/12 chassis, so if need be I can add weight where I want it. I'm just not a believer in "can't"--I think there are too many advantages to be had with lighter overall weight to not experiment a bit with it.

And as far as "overcharging"...there is already a rule in place to prevent that wit LiPos. You show up at the line with a battery showing 8.45v or more "you get to go home for the day, Mr. DQ". If a track is choosing not to enforce the rule (with a $2.99 on sale at Harbor Freight digital volt-ohm meter) that's not a problem with technology, that's a problem with people.
I've seen it tried - 7.4v, 380 motor - and wasn't impressed. I drove the car - wasn't impressed.

I don't believe in "can't", but I do believe in knowing which 'battles' to fight, and which not, in order to win the 'war'. Technology is out there to give close to 4.8v in a battery that is closer to the advantages of LiPo than the (alleged) disadvantages of NiMh. In order to win the 'war', I just have to wait for that technology to reach us. Why fight a 'battle' with LiPo when all I have to do is wait...?

LiPo was always a viable alternative where 6 cells were in use, hence the popularity in TC and Off-Road. However, that doesn't apply in 12th. Good for you for experimenting, and go right ahead. I would like to know how you get on. I just don't think it's a good idea, and I don't want all these threads full of people telling me I have to go LiPo in 12th when I, like tens of thousands of others, are very happy with NiMh - especially now that we don't have to run IBs.

Like Joost I believe that we have Rules and we race to them. At such time as the Associations give us an option to run another class, it will be worth trying. Until then...
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:40 PM   #29050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I've seen it tried - 7.4v, 380 motor - and wasn't impressed. I drove the car - wasn't impressed.
Yes, but there are several relative power levels of 380 motors. I fully agree that one with too much power, like the 8kv Tekins I run in my Mod Sliders, would be too much. I'll start with a 5.4 or thereabout. I'm not sure what Novak offer with their Mongoose or what other options are out there.

As it is it sounds like you're dismissing something as unworkable after experiencing a grand sample size of ONE possible set-up. Good thing we didn't leave you in charge of inventing the lightbulb. Or the first 408 formulas that led to Formula 409 . If you don't feel like being the one to do the experimenting that's absolutely your perogative. Others are interested in exploring uncharted territory a bit. No harm in that at all. Who knows, we might find something that WOULD impress you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I don't believe in "can't", but I do believe in knowing which 'battles' to fight, and which not, in order to win the 'war'. Technology is out there to give close to 4.8v in a battery that is closer to the advantages of LiPo than the (alleged) disadvantages of NiMh. In order to win the 'war', I just have to wait for that technology to reach us. Why fight a 'battle' with LiPo when all I have to do is wait...?
Who's talking about a war? Don't misunderstand--I LOVE 1/12 and, believe it or not, have run my good ol' IB4200's right up to now with nary a problem (a bit maintenance-intensive, but have been very good batteries for me). I'm not at all dissatisfied with the state of NiMH racing in 1/12, I just think there can be a means of racing with less maintenance and less crash damage (though I don't experience much of this) due to lighter cars. Add in less tire wear, etc and there may be a lot to gain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
LiPo was always a viable alternative where 6 cells were in use, hence the popularity in TC and Off-Road. However, that doesn't apply in 12th. Good for you for experimenting, and go right ahead. I would like to know how you get on. I just don't think it's a good idea, and I don't want all these threads full of people telling me I have to go LiPo in 12th when I, like tens of thousands of others, are very happy with NiMh - especially now that we don't have to run IBs.

Like Joost I believe that we have Rules and we race to them. At such time as the Associations give us an option to run another class, it will be worth trying. Until then...
I don't think anyone, anyone credible anyway, is telling anyone else they have to do anything. You are 100% correct, the sanctioning bodies world wide 100% support sub-C power. The only way that will EVER change is if a viable alternative is found and then enough people adopt that alternative. Even then (and certainly "if"), I would foresee it being a very gradual, evolutionary change.

KEEP IN MIND...I have never advocated, nor do I anticipate doing so, trying to create some sort of parity between existing tech 1/12 and "new" tech 1/12. I see existing 1/12 racing along for at least the next few years pretty much as-is. Who knows, though...if a workable alternative is found perhaps there's room at the collective table for an alternative 1/12 class to run in conjunction with the existing. But that's down the road. My hope for the near-term is to find a way to make this work for our local club and for any other clubs that might want to try. No one is trying to pee in your Cheerios--you just keep doin' it the way you want to do it, secure in the knowledge that the sanctioning bodies are backing you all the way. For now.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:45 PM   #29051
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I agree with you for the most part. I'm not telling anyone they have to go lipo and for racing, MiMH is definitely the way to go. My interest in it is simply as something to play with over the winter to keep the driving sharp and experiment with some new tech. Others may have a different agenda but that is mine.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:46 PM   #29052
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Racing associations/sanctioning bodies don't start up new classes out of the blue...they put them in place because somebody is allready running it and it is gaining enough popularity to be a rules set at a national level. That doesn't happen without someone experimenting first. Yes there is a cell technology coming out that can put us right at the 4.8v mark...but unless that gets adopted to run at 7.2v as well and used in other classes the chances are less likely that it will get adopted for 1/12th over another technology that is allready in use. So simply waiting gets us nowhere. I like 4 cell myself...but I also see a potential future change and it is better to be ready for that ahead of time then to get slapped in the face with it when it happens.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:54 PM   #29053
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Scottrik's got it bang on...this isn't something that anyone is pushing to have happen overnight...heck it might not even happen at all. If it does it will happen as an alternative class ran in parrallel with the existing class and depending on popularity people will eventually migrate to one or the other. Either way this is something that is years and years down the road. But as I said before it is better to start looking into alternatives now then later on down the road when the existing technology is too hard to get. It's called being proactive rather then reactive.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:46 PM   #29054
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Hey Guy,
I came on here to look for someone running lipo in 12th scale. I see there is quite a bit of discussion. I dont want to mod anything or buy new speedo to get it to work.
Has anyone used a 1 cell lipo with a receiver pack? I would appreciate any help and what works.
Thanks Marker
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:59 PM   #29055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
so what do you guys think about running 1/12 on asphalt?

Awesome!!.......... I'm currntly running my indoor carpet set-up for asphalt using Parma Mag in the rear and Parma Purple in the front. Handles real nice all thru the run!
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