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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-18-2008, 09:37 PM   #29011
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Originally Posted by rayhuang View Post
Its been awhile since I raced, BUUUUT I recall a box of different tooth spurs and having to chnage spurs when I felt like I needed to run the car low (and make those tiny rollout chnages to keep up with tire wear). if not you got to clean a spur gear full of paragon and track goo after every run. couldnt be good for the motor and runtime too.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:01 PM   #29012
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My usual tires I run are Dbl Pink fronts and pink rears. But right now I am experimenting with magentas all the way around or magenta/pink combo. Tomarrow I will be trying Dble pink/magenta to see how it reacts out of curiousity, nothing more. We run a 81mm rollout, but it differs from track to track. I run full size prismz out of the box. However everyone is differen on that as well. I also been swaping between cars (12l4 and DB12R).
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:01 AM   #29013
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i am searching a lipo saddle pack that fits into a 1/12 pan car. i saw that corally has these new saddle packs but i never saw one in nature and do not know if they would match.
does anyone know if there is such a lipo pack that fits into a 1/12?
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:16 AM   #29014
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
My usual tires I run are Dbl Pink fronts and pink rears. But right now I am experimenting with magentas all the way around or magenta/pink combo. Tomarrow I will be trying Dble pink/magenta to see how it reacts out of curiousity, nothing more. We run a 81mm rollout, but it differs from track to track. I run full size prismz out of the box. However everyone is differen on that as well. I also been swaping between cars (12l4 and DB12R).
Thanks!
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:19 AM   #29015
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i am searching a lipo saddle pack that fits into a 1/12 pan car. i saw that corally has these new saddle packs but i never saw one in nature and do not know if they would match.
does anyone know if there is such a lipo pack that fits into a 1/12?
Check out MaxAmps, and e-mail them with the sizes you want. They were able to supply me, until I realised that a LiPo in a 12th car was never going to work due to weight and motor problems. Good luck with it. HTH
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:57 AM   #29016
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one of the guys at our track who's particularly fond of lipos tried an unusual experiment in his genX this week that yielded really good results. He put a novak mongoose brushless system in his genX (this is the little brushless combo that's designed for 1/18th scale cars). to power this motor, he used an inexpensive 2cell 7.4V lipo from maxamps (which just happens to be about the same length as a 4cell NIMH pack is wide). It all fits just fine in the genX car and to our amazement, the car handled much like it did with a normal power package. His lap times were actually a tick quicker than what he was doing the previous week with the same car and a 13.5 normal brushless. And this was done with the mildest of the the available mongoose motors. The car was easily able to run for 8 minutes. So it would seem that it is in fact possible to make a lipo setup work in 12th with products that are currently available. Oh.....I forgot to mention that the car's something like 350 grams lighter than it was with a GTB speedo and a 13.5 motor. those of us who witnessed this experiment were amazed to see that it worked so well. But I've seen it with my own eyes and even driven the car for a few laps. It had good power and it drove much like my regular genX.
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:32 PM   #29017
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Does anyone have a suggested rollout for 1/12th with 7.4v lipo for the following motors.

13.5 & 17.5

Yeah I expect to hear some backlash, not concerned about weight as I will be adding lead to compensate.

Just not to sure on rollout with the voltage increase.
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:50 PM   #29018
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I guess my biggest concern with LiPo (as available at this moment) is that hard cases are unavailable. I wouldn't worry so much outdoors, but indoors on our club's VERY expensive to replace carpet I'm concerned about well-intentioned experiments going wrong. Beyond the fire potential, does anyone know what the "juice" from one of these batteries would do to Ozite? There are a TON of things in a 1/12 chassis that can poke through a soft lipo in a hard wreck.

All that said, I am VERY interested in the results you are seeing.
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:15 PM   #29019
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
one of the guys at our track who's particularly fond of lipos tried an unusual experiment in his genX this week that yielded really good results. He put a novak mongoose brushless system in his genX (this is the little brushless combo that's designed for 1/18th scale cars). to power this motor, he used an inexpensive 2cell 7.4V lipo from maxamps (which just happens to be about the same length as a 4cell NIMH pack is wide). It all fits just fine in the genX car and to our amazement, the car handled much like it did with a normal power package. His lap times were actually a tick quicker than what he was doing the previous week with the same car and a 13.5 normal brushless. And this was done with the mildest of the the available mongoose motors. The car was easily able to run for 8 minutes. So it would seem that it is in fact possible to make a lipo setup work in 12th with products that are currently available. Oh.....I forgot to mention that the car's something like 350 grams lighter than it was with a GTB speedo and a 13.5 motor. those of us who witnessed this experiment were amazed to see that it worked so well. But I've seen it with my own eyes and even driven the car for a few laps. It had good power and it drove much like my regular genX.

Interesting and brings up a couple of ?'s. I have'nt seen this system did he need some kind of adapter plate to mount the motor? And what size pinion does this motor use?

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Old 07-19-2008, 10:20 PM   #29020
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Interesting and brings up a couple of ?'s. I have'nt seen this system did he need some kind of adapter plate to mount the motor? And what size pinion does this motor use?

Chris
A guy came to my track with the same thing but with a Mamba system. He used a copper tube with the ID the size of the shaft and the OD the size of a 540 motor shaft to run the pinions. I think he soldered the tube to the motor shaft but I can't remember.
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Old 07-20-2008, 09:06 AM   #29021
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the little novak motor has a 1/8 shaft and so it uses standard pinions
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Old 07-20-2008, 09:15 AM   #29022
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Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
A guy came to my track with the same thing but with a Mamba system. He used a copper tube with the ID the size of the shaft and the OD the size of a 540 motor shaft to run the pinions. I think he soldered the tube to the motor shaft but I can't remember.
Not to say one COULDN'T solder directly to the motor shaft, but that would pretty well render that motor non-serviceable should it need internal attention in the future. I'd bet he used the old slot car trick for putting 1/8" bore wheels on 3/32" axles. Make a sleeve of 3/32" id (conveniently 1/8" od) but before you cut the sleeve off the big piece of tubing you bought use a Dremel and cut-off wheel to cut a hole in one side of it near the end that a grub screw (set screw) can pass through. Put your wheel (or, in this case, pinion) over the end of your piece of stock and run the grub screw down so it engages through the tubing sleeve. Cut the sleeve to length on both sides using the pinion itself as a guide for your X-acto razor saw or Dremel/cut-off wheel. Use a round jewlers file to dress the ends, back the set screw out JUST far enough that the assembly slips over the shaft (but leave enough in that it keeps the sleeve "indexed" to the pinion...easier to keep everything lined up that way) and tighten the grub screw. Viola!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
the little novak motor has a 1/8 shaft and so it uses standard pinions
Isn't that great news!! Is the Novak Munchkin Motor (or whatever they call it) sensored or sensorless?

What sort of adapter are these guys using to mount the motor into the chassis?
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:35 PM   #29023
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Originally Posted by strahler View Post
i am searching a lipo saddle pack that fits into a 1/12 pan car. i saw that corally has these new saddle packs but i never saw one in nature and do not know if they would match.

does anyone know if there is such a lipo pack that fits into a 1/12?
Guys, you can really forget about wanting to use LiPO cells in 12th scale... 1S LiPO is 3.7V & 2S LiPO is 7.4V and since we are running 4 cells NiMH which are 4.8V nominal, using LiPO is definately out of the question and besides that... A 2S LiPO saddle pack of 7.4V will never fit a 4 cell 12th chassis because they are sized for 6 cell saddle pack chassis...

Joost.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:31 PM   #29024
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Guys, you can really forget about wanting to use LiPO cells in 12th scale... 1S LiPO is 3.7V & 2S LiPO is 7.4V and since we are running 4 cells NiMH which are 4.8V nominal, using LiPO is definately out of the question and besides that... A 2S LiPO saddle pack of 7.4V will never fit a 4 cell 12th chassis because they are sized for 6 cell saddle pack chassis...

Joost.
Will fit in several cars BMI, CRC Gen X etc.

I am doing it as a test mule as I tire of nimh cells that are unreliable and so time consuming to maintain at there peak.

Charge a Lipo days before put in car, drive. When I practice this is what I want to do, come race day I use nimh torch batteries
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:31 PM   #29025
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Guys, you can really forget about wanting to use LiPO cells in 12th scale... 1S LiPO is 3.7V & 2S LiPO is 7.4V and since we are running 4 cells NiMH which are 4.8V nominal, using LiPO is definately out of the question and besides that... A 2S LiPO saddle pack of 7.4V will never fit a 4 cell 12th chassis because they are sized for 6 cell saddle pack chassis...

Joost.
It has allready been done in several tests. Not all that long ago 1/12th used to run 6 cell saddle packs so there is room...it just gets really crowded.
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