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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-16-2008, 12:08 PM   #28996
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You won't need anything kit specific from your older kits. The R5 is current with today's expectations. If you have the .5 ride height pills, keep them. If you have the full range of side springs, keep them. Your center springs, keep them. Things like that, obviously... The R5 is intense!
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:15 PM   #28997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
DB12R
Yeah, No!

What motor are you running @ SATX? What is the news for the future of the track?
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:06 PM   #28998
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Novak 17.5. As far as the track is concerned maybe six months left or maybe not, Nothing is for sure yet. Any plans on making a trip down here to run a few heats with us?
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:36 PM   #28999
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I've got a question regarding titanium screws. I need 3mm x 5mm flat head titanium screws for my 12R5. The smallest that Lunsford sells is 3mm x 7mm. Does anyone know of another source for 3x5mm flat head titanium screws? I bought some 3x7 screws from Lunsford and thought I could grind them down using my Dremel. Turns out titanium is a real bitch to grind. At least with the equipment I've got.
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:45 PM   #29000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy View Post
I've got a question regarding titanium screws. I need 3mm x 5mm flat head titanium screws for my 12R5. The smallest that Lunsford sells is 3mm x 7mm. Does anyone know of another source for 3x5mm flat head titanium screws? I bought some 3x7 screws from Lunsford and thought I could grind them down using my Dremel. Turns out titanium is a real bitch to grind. At least with the equipment I've got.
Titanium is pretty tough (especially the stuff form Lunsford) but I cut it pretty easily with a thin Dremel cut off wheel.

Other than that TOP Racing has 3mm titanium screws, flat head and button head, in various lengths from 3x6 to 3x35mm. I'm not sure if the R5 could use the 3x6 screws but it may have room for the extra millimeter. I'm about to build an R5 and will check on that
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:59 PM   #29001
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Tamiya has a huge variety of titanium 3mm screw sizes.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:56 PM   #29002
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Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
RC_STUMPY

the corally front will "cut it" and has been proved to cut it with A main finals at the nations, the problem is because Dave spashett won the worlds with the AE front end everyone has put that on without trying the corally front end. I have ran both and have found that i can drive faster lap times with the corally front end. I only made one mod to it and that was to put two o-ring collars ontop of each other under the springs then fill the gap with damper gue, this makes the front end very smooth. At my club we all run with the corally front end and most of us have tried the AE at some point.

Just don't beleive what people say about it being crap as most people go with what they now and don't like change......

steve
Steve, the Corally front end is not a patch on the AE front end because it has too little castor and too much camber gain. But it's worst point is no damping - oh look, you made a damper!!

My point is, you are not running the standard Corally front end, and you obviously have a lot more technical and mechanical ability than the average racer. You've done the one thing that gets that front end to behave, so I am not surprised you think it is fine. However, for the average Joe buying an SP12X, who doesn't understand what it needs, the AE front end is the way to go.

David Spashett had experience of the CEFX front end as well as the Corally front end in the years leading up to the Worlds 2006. Why do you think he fitted the AE front end? He's not WC for nothing!!

The Corally front end is properly rated, but yours is not a standard Corally front end, so it can't be rated by us against the AE. Please accept that people will always be recommended to fit the AE front end because the standard Corally front end is not very good.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:14 AM   #29003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Novak 17.5. As far as the track is concerned maybe six months left or maybe not, Nothing is for sure yet. Any plans on making a trip down here to run a few heats with us?
Hopefully nothing will happen with it... Maybe some time in August I can make it out that way. Would love to run the R5 on asphalt.
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:14 AM   #29004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Titanium is pretty tough (especially the stuff form Lunsford) but I cut it pretty easily with a thin Dremel cut off wheel.

Other than that TOP Racing has 3mm titanium screws, flat head and button head, in various lengths from 3x6 to 3x35mm. I'm not sure if the R5 could use the 3x6 screws but it may have room for the extra millimeter. I'm about to build an R5 and will check on that
I was able to use some of the 3x7mm on the kit without a problem. Some of the screws need to be 5mm. However, the problem has been solved. I gave my brother here at work 8 7mm screws and he ground them down to 5mm on a diamond wheel in about 2 minutes.
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Old 07-17-2008, 12:55 PM   #29005
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Hi slowerone. I also run at the same club as Steve (Plymouth) and as you know, we have quite a good racer in one R. Hammet, I'm sure you him. He runs the Corally front end with no mods and has made National A-finals with it. I think what Steve is saying, is that people that buy the 12x don't even give the standard front end a chance. They see others running the AE front end and go with that straight away. Beleive me, Robin is a fantastic driver, very hard to race against and he has never used the AE front end.

by the way Steve, did you get that PM I sent you and if so, what do you think?
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Old 07-17-2008, 01:32 PM   #29006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
Hopefully nothing will happen with it... Maybe some time in August I can make it out that way. Would love to run the R5 on asphalt.
Well, hope not, but you never know. Well, let some of us know when you plan on making it down. We do have a older gentleman running a 12r5 out their now. He has it handling like it is on rails. I do noticed that it acts different from my DB12r and the 12l4 in the chicane.
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Old 07-17-2008, 01:51 PM   #29007
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi slowerone. I also run at the same club as Steve (Plymouth) and as you know, we have quite a good racer in one R. Hammet, I'm sure you him. He runs the Corally front end with no mods and has made National A-finals with it. I think what Steve is saying, is that people that buy the 12x don't even give the standard front end a chance. They see others running the AE front end and go with that straight away. Beleive me, Robin is a fantastic driver, very hard to race against and he has never used the AE front end.

by the way Steve, did you get that PM I sent you and if so, what do you think?
I know Robin is a very good driver, and I don't doubt Steve is as well. But you're not going to convince me, or the hundreds of others who use the AE front end, that two drivers makes the front end OK!! And, as Robin has not run the AE front end, how do we know he wouldn't be faster?!!

Each to their own, but if anyone new to 12th asked me, and I wanted them to get the best from their first run with a car, it would be the AE front end every time. I'd trust that to give them the best result for the least effort!!
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:25 PM   #29008
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Thats a fair comment mate. At the Plymouth national, I was talking to quite a few 12x drivers and most of them said that they were only using the AE front end because some of the top drivers were using it and they had never tried the Corally front end. I think that it would be a good idea to try it and then use the AE front end to gauge the differances, that's all.

Oh, and yep, Robin's a great driver, Steve however.........
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:38 PM   #29009
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I know Robin is a very good driver, and I don't doubt Steve is as well. But you're not going to convince me, or the hundreds of others who use the AE front end, that two drivers makes the front end OK!! And, as Robin has not run the AE front end, how do we know he wouldn't be faster?!!

Each to their own, but if anyone new to 12th asked me, and I wanted them to get the best from their first run with a car, it would be the AE front end every time. I'd trust that to give them the best result for the least effort!!
Hey Chris just got ur pm, wow that looks cool, we really need to do stuff like that over here. Hows your pro10 going mate? Your a cheeky git...

SlowerOne i take your point my corally front end is not standard any more, but then none of my car are ever left standard for very long. My new GenX is being modified as we speak with changes being made to the side springs and the dampers. Not all changes work out for the best but i do love to play around, i think it must come from my days of hand building nitro hydroplanes for speed runs.

I would like to see Robin run the AE front end to see if he is any quicker, as far as i can remember he's never run it and i've only ever known him to run Corally's.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:28 PM   #29010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Novak 17.5. As far as the track is concerned maybe six months left or maybe not, Nothing is for sure yet. Any plans on making a trip down here to run a few heats with us?
What roll out are you runnning for 17.5 and what foams are you using and what a good dia. front and rear.
Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks in advance!
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